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Old 01-10-2006, 11:36 AM   #16
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New Minnesota homeowner & found rotten bath subfloor...HELP!


Yeah, sawzalls can kick, you'll get it.
Looks good, have you reached the end of your rot? Is this room over an unheated space? If the insulation ever got wet you should replace it. You'll need to look under it regardless just to see if there's more damage there. Are you replacing the tub? if so now is the time. What finish surface will you be putting down on the floor? If you're ready to start putting it back together, you need to put blocking in between the floor joists to support the edges of the plywood that you'll be screwing down next. Cut 2x4's to fit snugly between the joists and tuck them up tight to the tub and also 1/2 way under the edge of the existing plywood. These blocks need to be firmly attached to the joists. Put fasteners wherever you can get them. Then cut matching thickness plywood and screw it down.

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Old 01-11-2006, 12:18 PM   #17
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New Minnesota homeowner & found rotten bath subfloor...HELP!


Leah,
IF you are going to tile the tub surround make sure you tile that blank wall(now) that is behind the stool. Nothing worse than trying to 'paint' behind a stool. You will thank yourself for years and many paint jobs to come. And makes it look so much more finished. Good place to practice first trys.
Congrads on doing it yourself, your parents and friends will be proud!! As well as yourself!!
IF that vanity is in your road and it sure looks that way, I might think of setting it outside the work area for a bit. cap the water lines and away you go!!!
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Old 01-11-2006, 08:38 PM   #18
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New Minnesota homeowner & found rotten bath subfloor...HELP!


Leah,
My question is whats wrong with your present tub? Color? finish? steel with pocelian finish? Made of plastic etc? What would a new tub do that this one doesnt?
If you can repair or fix satisfactory leave it and surround with ceramic tile, would that make it look like new?

Also same question on floor. Can you put ceramic tile on it? Is that what you would 'like'? Really dresses up in comparasion to vinyl. If such a small bath as it appears a 4' wainscoat around wall wouldnt hurt either and not REAL expensive compared to other treatments? What were your plans? When doing a bath seldom costs alot more to go first class as compared to second rate where YOU can enjoy it every day. Even a heating element floor cant be too much IF it is your main use bath. Is this off master bedroom? or main bath off of main floor hallway??? Good luck with your project. Hope even one small thing is making it better for you.
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Old 01-12-2006, 10:27 AM   #19
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New Minnesota homeowner & found rotten bath subfloor...HELP!


A few questions anwered:

The bathroom is the main bathroom. There are two doors to the bathroom - one to the hallway and also one to the mater bedroom. I have a tuck-under garage, and the bathroom is above the garage.

I'd like to replace the bathtub for a few reasons: 1. Because it seems really shallow to me (I am 5'10"). 2. Because the finish has some scratches. 3. Because the finish on the tub floor has those awful sand-papery rough spots to reduce slippage. NOT the kind that you buy and stick on, rather the kind that was built into the tub. Ew. 3. The tub shape is strange - it actually tapers in where your right foot is when you sit in the tub. I suppose it was so there was room for shampoo/soap/etc. on the edge of the tub. (Does that make sense?) The strange thing about the tub is that I can't seem to find the hanger clips that hold the tub to the wall! Everything that I have read seems to indicate that the clips are easy to find. Well, mine are not!

I am not yet sure what finish I will put down on the floor once it's repaired. Probably tile. I'll likely replace the sheetrock in the tub/shower and tile there as well.

I definitely want to rip out the old vanity. Last night I was inspecting the plumbing connections with the sinks. I found that there are no shut-off valves for the sinks. Does this mean that I will have to shut off the main water supply just to disconnect the sink plumbing?! That would suck because I'd have to wait to remove the old vanity/vanity top until the very minute I am going to replace it. There MUST be an easier way, no?

Again, thanks for all the input - it REALLY has helped!!

Leah :o
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Old 01-13-2006, 12:52 AM   #20
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Tub should be screwed to the wall along the upper edge under the drywall.

If you're tiling the tub surround, you DONT want to use drywall, you NEED to use some type of cement board. If you're tiling the floor, you're likely going to need another layer of plywood to stiffen the floor, then cement board or ditra, then tile.

Vanity supply lines: Turn off the water in the house, cut the lines, put valves on them, (make sure the valves are turned off ), and turn the water back on. Or you can cap the lines so that the valves aren't in the way when you put the new vanity in, then turn the water off one more time after the vanity is in to install the valves. As you seem to be aware, having valves is very useful. :D

Did you find the water source that has caused you all this entertainment yet?
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Old 01-17-2006, 12:56 PM   #21
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I have not yet figured out the cause of the water damage. I assume it was from typical toilet/wax ring issues. However, when we bought the house, the seller "disclosed" that there was water damage from a leak on the garage ceiling & wall (immediately under the bathroom) and that it was "completely fixed". She didn't say what the leak was from, so I think I may track her down to ask her. I know I should as long as I have already torn the place apart!

I have the vanity almost out, I just have to go purchase a pipe wrench because I cannot loosen one of the nuts at the sink trap.

Next question...regarding taking out the bathtub: How do I go about disconnecting the plumbing when there is no access panel. Will I have to go to the garage underneath the tub and remove that sheetrock to get at it? WHEW! :o

Leah
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Old 01-17-2006, 09:18 PM   #22
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OOF!
I finally got the plumbing disconnected in the plumbing to the two sinks in the vanity - Oh, the horror! I nearly passed out from the smell of the sewer gas. Then I had to empty the nasty bluish-clumpy-junk. I ran down the icy driveway and dumped it into the gutter. It must have been a sight. Yikes, I don't wanna go back in there for a while, lol.

I stuffed rags into the pipes...correct, no?

Leah
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Old 01-17-2006, 10:18 PM   #23
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Re: taking out the tub. See a previous post for the instructions on pulling the tub, your tub spout comes in above the tub or is it an older one that comes through holes in the tub itself? If the latter, then you'll have to remove the faucet etc. first, but that would be rare in my experience. You shouldn't have to remove any drywall in the garage to deal with the tub.
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Old 01-18-2006, 10:39 AM   #24
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Question for Bonus,
How will she disconnect the drain plumbing from under the tub without going thru garage ceiling??? I think I would cut as small of hole as I could get by with in that ceiling. Then make a permanent access panel, in said ceiling, removable, for any future work up there. Plus the next tub reinstall. She HAS to disconnect it below the "T" where the overflow runs back in, preferably at the goose neck trap. I have seen tubs with NO clips or screws to hold it to the wall, gravity on a heavy tub does it all. Is it loose at all Leah or feels like it is really tight to the wall???
Or is there an access panel for the faucets, on the opposite side of wall from handles, that goes clear down to the floor to get at drain plumbing? If you have bath all tore up anyway I think you want an access panel there too, or else you will next week, WINK<WINK!!! Make it pretty and decrotive and let it blend as well as you can. Even something you can caulk the seams to hide better while not needed and when used can easy be recaulked back again. like a couple large deco ceramic tiles than slide in a plastic runner side base.(Like plastic u-channels) happy remodeling Leah!!!
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Old 01-18-2006, 11:04 AM   #25
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Justdon, unscrew the drain strainer and the overflow trim and bracket and the tub is now free to move, then you have access to the plumbing below. I agree that having an access panel installed is desirable, but sometimes it's not feasible and it's certainly not common practice IMO.

"She HAS to disconnect it below the "T" where the overflow runs back in" Why? It might be that the new tub has a different configuration than the old (taller eg.) and the waste plumbing to the trap will have to be rebuilt, but I've replaced many a tub without changing anything other than seals.
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Old 01-19-2006, 10:26 AM   #26
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The tub's spout is above the tub, not built in, so that's good at least! Also, there is no access panel because the wall with the faucets backs up to a kitchen wall where there are cabinets and the oven. I wouldn't be able to put one in anywhere except from underneath in the garage ceiling.

The tub seems like it's secure, but I still can't find any clips where it's being held to the wall, so I assume that it's the plumbing that is keeping it snug. Can I cut the tub with a recip. saw? It's not cast iron or anything.

I called the previous homeowner a couple of days ago, and she told me the leakage was from the toilet. She said a plumber came over and fixed it. I am extremely surprised when she said she had no idea that the floor was rotted so badly. I feel better now that I called her, at least.

Leah

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Old 01-19-2006, 09:24 PM   #27
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New Minnesota homeowner & found rotten bath subfloor...HELP!


Update! I got the vanity ripped out tonight - what a great feeling!

Next issue - a small one, I think! For the life of me, I cannot get the screw out of the "lift and turn" drain. Any ideas?

Leah
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Old 01-22-2006, 09:28 PM   #28
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It's possible to cut the tub, but your project will all of a sudden become a lot less fun if you try. You might have tried some penetrating oil on the plug screw? Is it a slot screw or Allen wrench, or what? Worse comes to worst, you can just bring in a heavier hammer...(break it). Yeah the tub is likely held there by the plumbing and the habit of years.
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Old 01-22-2006, 09:58 PM   #29
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New Minnesota homeowner & found rotten bath subfloor...HELP!


Yep lift and screw drain screw. I had a hard time getting mine out also. I ended up just taking a duzall to it. What kind of bathtub fiberglass or cast iron. If cast iron. You could just take a sledgehammer and go at it pick up the pieces. I'm impressed your rocking. :D I'm suprised some of the other guys haven't stop by to help out.
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Old 02-03-2006, 10:07 AM   #30
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Whew! Sorry it's been a while...been working extra hours at my second part-time job.

For the life of me, I could not het the stupid screw out of the lift & turn drain. The screw was stripped, so I drilled holes through it until it popped off. Funny, though...since I apparently drilled a little sideways (doh!), part of the screw was still stuck to the side when it popped off. I swear it was super-glued in, ha. The next challenge was the drain itself - also "super-glued". I went and bought a drain wrench and got it out that way. The tub didn't have any clips holding it to the wall. Now, the newest issue to tackle: getting the tub OUT of the bathroom.

I thought it was cast iron, so I bought a sledgehammer and tried to bust it up last night. All I was able to accomplish was chipping of the porcelain-type coating. It's grey underneath and there was "give" when I hit that part of the tub...I assume this means the tub is enameled steel, right? It's really heavy for me to move.

Here's my question - is there any way to break up or cut this type of tub? As a very last resort, I can open the wall behind it that goes into the bedroom, but I really, really don't want to do that.

I have some phots of the progress at photos.yahoo.com/eby1972 if you care to look at them. There are pics of the tub, too. The link brings you to a bunch of albums, the one with the bathroom stuff is called BATHROOM REPAIR & REMODEL (go figure!).

Let me know your thoughts on the tub! You are all helping so much and I appreciate it!

Leah

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