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Old 07-17-2015, 03:50 PM   #1
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New Hardwood Conundrum


I recently purchased an 100+ yr old home. An addition was added about 20 years ago. The back of the house was blown out and my master bedroom was expanded into the edition.

The house has 3/4" white oak plank flooring in the old part of the house. There is no sub-floor. Most of the flooring in the house is in pretty good shape. I'm having all the flooring refinished.

The addition has 3/4" plywood floors. It was carpeted.

My problem is that my MBR is split down the middle of the room. Half is 100+ yr old hardwood, and half is plywood. There is a ridge where the 2 parts of the room meet. They sort of match up. It looks like someone took some leveling compound and attempted to level it as best they could. The plank flooring is slightly higher.

I'd like to fix it, but I'm not sure of the best approach.

Do I:
  1. Attempt to level the room, remove the ridge, and then go over both sides of the room with new hardwood as is? (Essentially using the old flooring as a sub-floor.)
  2. Attempt to level the room, remove the ridge, add additional plywood, then go over both sides of the room with new hardwood.
  3. Attempt to remove the old hardwood, add a 3/4" subfloor, reapply the hardwood and locate some salvaged wood and finish the rest of the floor?
  4. Attempt to remove the plywood, and add salvaged wood and finish the rest of the floor?
#1 is the easiest.

#2 will give the worst result because of the offset with the other flooring. I'll need a fairly tall transition in the doorway.

#3 sounds like a nightmare.

#4 sounds like I might cause issues with the stability of the addition by removing all that plywood flooring, but would give the most authentic looking result.

Any help is greatly appreciated. I'm new to 'old house' problems. I think I'll need to get more creative with my problem solving.

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Last edited by b-boy; 07-17-2015 at 03:53 PM.
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Old 07-17-2015, 04:02 PM   #2
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Consider number 1 but use an engineered 3/8 hardwood. I hear good things about them and the transition is smaller.

Chances are all the wall are built on whichever single layer of flooring you have. Stability on the walls perpendicular to the joists is not a problem but might be on the parallel walls.

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Old 07-17-2015, 04:11 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Colbyt View Post
Consider number 1 but use an engineered 3/8 hardwood. I hear good things about them and the transition is smaller.

Chances are all the wall are built on whichever single layer of flooring you have. Stability on the walls perpendicular to the joists is not a problem but might be on the parallel walls.
That's a good idea. I hadn't considered a thinner engineered flooring. That should add some stability as well. My main concern is not having a transition that I'll need to climb to get into the room. My biggest concern with this is finding a finish that will match what's already in the house.

Yes - the flooring goes under the walls. I'm very hesitant about disturbing it.

Last edited by b-boy; 07-17-2015 at 04:13 PM.
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Old 07-19-2015, 02:56 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by b-boy View Post
That's a good idea. I hadn't considered a thinner engineered flooring. That should add some stability as well. My main concern is not having a transition that I'll need to climb to get into the room. My biggest concern with this is finding a finish that will match what's already in the house.

Yes - the flooring goes under the walls. I'm very hesitant about disturbing it.
You say your having all the floors refinished, so there shouldn't be a concern about matching what's in the house,just order unfinished white oak for the engineered flooring you'll put in the MBR.
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Old 07-19-2015, 06:15 PM   #5
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Can you buy unfinished engineered wood flooring?
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Old 07-20-2015, 03:41 PM   #6
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Of course you can, it has to be ordered like any other flooring, don't know where your located but google it and you may find someone close to you,if not anyone can order it for you.

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