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Old 07-31-2010, 01:36 AM   #1
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Nervous about Tile install.....


I removed the vinyl, and the stuff under it. I wouldn't call it wood it splinterd all over. Got down to my sub floor. (1" thick). I have 16" wide joists, and it has walls 12' apart supporting it. I put down hardebacker. It was horrible trying to get the screws flush (on thin set). Seams pretty flat but one board is just slightly higher, I layed all my tile out and have marked my cuts. But...... There is a little bit of movement on some of the tiles. Does this require some kind of leveler before I can lay the tiles. Will the thin set take care of some minor differences in the floor? I'm laying 16x16 Porcelian tile. Also, I borrowed a wet saw, but after reading, it sounds like I need a heavy duty thing for my type a tile, and I don't have a snap cutter? So.... I'm nervous and want to know if I should just buy crappy snap laminante wood stuff instead?

Please advise!!!!! I can't sleep out of fear I'm doing something wrong.

Jen
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Old 07-31-2010, 02:29 PM   #2
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Nervous about Tile install.....


Special screws are available that are self setting and properly coated for use with all of the cement boards.

Tiles that large require a very flat (plane) floor. If your floor isn't flat neither will your large tiles be.

The thinset will take-up some of the irregularities but you can't depend on it happening in your favor if the subfloor isn't right to begin with.

Larger tiles require a larger notched trowel and in some cases a medium based thinset. In addition the floor may have to be spread and the tiles also backbuttered.

Larger tiles don't always respond favorably to a snap-cutter.
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Old 07-31-2010, 05:58 PM   #3
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I am not a pro but I have done quite a bit of tiling. Honestly, it does not sound like your floor is ready for tiles. Proper preparation is essential. If I were doing the job I would have added 3/8 inch plywood on top of the existing subfloor. Then 1/4 inch hardiboard set in thinset mortar with the proper screws sunk level to the surface of the hardiboard. Tiles are not very forgiving and where one board is not level with another they tend to crack. Grout can also crack as well. I respect the opinions of the pros who offer advice here and hopefully one will suggest the best remedial action you should take but I would hold off on doing any tiling for now.
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Old 07-31-2010, 06:40 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by retired guy 60 View Post
Proper preparation is essential.
What he said.... Po)
Funniest thing happens to tiles when the subfloor is not strong enough, as this guy learned the hard way.

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Old 07-31-2010, 06:51 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by jen5219 View Post
if I should just buy crappy snap laminate wood stuff instead?
Unless you're prepared to give that floor a LOT of stiffness somehow, this might be the safer route to go. But why crappy? There are much more forgiving floor coverings available. What room is this for?

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Old 07-31-2010, 07:41 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DangerMouse View Post
What he said.... Po)
Funniest thing happens to tiles when the subfloor is not strong enough, as this guy learned the hard way.

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That's crazy. What was the subfloor made out of, cardboard?
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Old 07-31-2010, 07:47 PM   #7
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Probably... and they were glued down with 'something', not thinset.

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Old 08-01-2010, 08:20 AM   #8
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kitchen. So the poll is..... my subfloor is not strong enough, I should have laid plywood before the hardebacker? Now what? Tear up the hardeboard and start over? (How horrible is that going to be witht the thinset under it?) I leveled out the one board that was high. It is good. Some of the tiles that were moving, are moving b/c of the tile so I replaced them and they are good, There are a few you can hear the move, but not really see it.

Was going to use 1/2 x1/2 for Fortified thinset.

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Old 08-01-2010, 08:27 AM   #9
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If you want those big tiles, yup! Unless you LIKE the whole 'crackletone' effect shown above, of course. Po)
Is this a house or mobile? If it's a mobile, you actually DO have 'cardboard' under there. The best surface for tiles is a 'rock-solid' and flat surface.
If this is not possible, I'd consider other options for flooring.

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Old 08-01-2010, 12:55 PM   #10
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OK, HOLD UP HERE FELLAS !!!

First things first!
There is already an investment in a tile installation underway, let's not be so quick to poo-poo the original idea. I don't see a major problem just yet.


Jen,
  1. What size are these floor joists, they have two dimensions?
  2. You already said they are spaced sixteen inches apart so, so far so good there maybe.
  3. You already said they span twelve feet between supports, that may also be in-range for a suitable floor structure also.
  4. You already said the subfloor is one inch thick, that's good also, but what is the subfloor material made of, and is the subfloor a single layer or multiple layers that make up the one inch thickness?
With answers to the above questions we can begin to determine if there is or is not a real issue here.

I think your terminology is somewhat lacking and that may be your only problem.

A little lippage in the seams of the underlayment isn't necessary a "deal-killer" at this point. The larger tiles require some special attention but they aren't out of the question at this point.

Don't let the above picture deter you just yet, that tile isn't floor tile to begin with.
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Old 08-01-2010, 01:01 PM   #11
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I torn up the stuff under the vinyl. It was not plywood. Lots of splinters. But got it all the way down nice and smooth piece of "layered looking" plywood? Fixed the noises in the floor. Then the hardebord.

The house is not very old either, that doesn’t mean there aren’t issues. But the floor was nice and even.
Joists are … You are talking out how deep they are correct? They are 9” deep and 1 ˝ thick and really long supported by a support beam and a concrete wall (12 feet apart). So.. I believe that is a 2 x 10?
I bought a ˝ x ˝ trowel for the 16 x 16 porcelain tile.
All tiles are cut and waiting to be laid. Hopefully.
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Old 08-01-2010, 01:06 PM   #12
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2x10's at 16" OC should be fine for tile, if prepared correctly. Po)

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Old 08-01-2010, 01:23 PM   #13
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They are 9” deep and 1 ˝ thick

OK, great! Now, what material is the subfloor made of?

I don't see a problem with any of this so far.
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Old 08-01-2010, 04:11 PM   #14
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A plywood? It looks to be layered, but about 1 in thick piece. Looked in vent so I'm estimating? Does that make sense?

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Old 08-01-2010, 04:27 PM   #15
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If there's a floor vent of any kind, lift it out and look at the edges inside. That will show you exactly what's under there. Po)

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