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jigijunk 02-13-2012 07:56 AM

mold on subfllor
 
buying a new home that has some mold growth, previous owners will not fix.

the home inspector said it is not bad and that can be treated by self.

The issue was due to water leak coming from outside of home due to flooded gutters in roof. will be getting that fixed.

for the floor, i see mold under the carpet only on one corner where the water came through, and if i go to basement directly beneath room , i can see mold growth on the floorboard there as well.

the carpet is getting ripped out and want to replace with hard wood.

this is my plan :
1. get a heavy duty steam cleaner
2. rip the carpet in room
3. remove wooden strips that hold the carpet
4. get p100 mask
5. steam clean the are where there was mold and at same time suck out as much water using shop vac with wet hepa filter
6. run dehumidifier
7.open window
8.use wet rags to dry area
9.perform same in basement under subfloor
10.then use mold inhibiting paint - yet to find good product and need suggestions

the inspector said that the subfloor is not soft.

is this a good strategy?

any suggestion for mold inhibiting paint?

house has been vacant for 2 years.

once new carpeting and floors are done, will be getting a pro duct cleaning service.

also have a newborn who would be moving in once all this is done and want to make it a safe environment for newborn


DO ANY OF THESE PRODUCTS WORK?
http://www.cleanertoday.com/MOLD-Killer-s/80.htm

Blondesense 02-13-2012 11:26 AM

I don't understand the steam cleaner if all the carpet is coming out.
I'm no expert, but it seems to me the last thing you want to do is to add moisture to mold.

Quote:

for the floor, i see mold under the carpet only on one corner where the water came through, and if i go to basement directly beneath room , i can see mold growth on the floorboard there as well.
Edited to add: The fact you can see damage on two different floors/stories would really concern me.

I'd wait until all the carpeting is out and you can see how much damage and mold there actually is before planning any further.

jigijunk 02-13-2012 12:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Blondesense (Post 852459)
I don't understand the steam cleaner if all the carpet is coming out.
I'm no expert, but it seems to me the last thing you want to do is to add moisture to mold.

Edited to add: The fact you can see damage on two different floors/stories would really concern me.

I'd wait until all the carpeting is out and you can see how much damage and mold there actually is before planning any further.

The reason to use steam is that as steamer would release steam 120 degree+, that should be suffice to clean the mold and then hepa vac the water and any spores.


'Edited to add: The fact you can see damage on two different floors/stories would really concern me.'
can you explain that more? I assume that since the subfloor board is 3/4" thick, the mold has grown through it and only on that one section which was wet.

joecaption 02-13-2012 12:13 PM

This house can turn into a money pit real quick.
There has to also be mold in the ceiling, in the walls, behind the trim as well as that floor.
As well as possible wood rot behind that fashia.
The carpet and padding as to go, not just be cleaned.

Forget the steam cleaner idea.

Daniel Holzman 02-13-2012 12:24 PM

You may want to get a professional mold abatement specialist to examine your property. The average inspector knows a limited amount about mold, and cannot be of much use in formulating an abatement plan. Mold requires a warm enough temperature, moisture, and a substrate to grow. The usual treatment is to remediate the water leak, clean up the active mold using (bleach, hydrogen peroxide, boric acid, many other fungicides). The key is to be absolutely certain you have completely eliminated the leak, which is not always as easy as it sounds.

jigijunk 02-13-2012 12:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Daniel Holzman (Post 852511)
You may want to get a professional mold abatement specialist to examine your property. The average inspector knows a limited amount about mold, and cannot be of much use in formulating an abatement plan. Mold requires a warm enough temperature, moisture, and a substrate to grow. The usual treatment is to remediate the water leak, clean up the active mold using (bleach, hydrogen peroxide, boric acid, many other fungicides). The key is to be absolutely certain you have completely eliminated the leak, which is not always as easy as it sounds.


what about using a mold fogger, followed by mold cleaner then hepa vac and dry and repeat next day. once area is dry apply mold inhibiting paint?

jigijunk 02-13-2012 12:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by joecaption (Post 852501)
This house can turn into a money pit real quick.
There has to also be mold in the ceiling, in the walls, behind the trim as well as that floor.
As well as possible wood rot behind that fashia.
The carpet and padding as to go, not just be cleaned.

Forget the steam cleaner idea.


what about using a mold fogger, followed by mold cleaner then hepa vac and dry and repeat next day. once area is dry apply mold inhibiting paint?

laflsyl10 02-13-2012 12:57 PM

First and foremost, you need to control the water leaking into the house to prevent mold growth from re-occuring.
For the wood framming, you can simply use a metal wire brush and sand it down. To do this effectively, you need a small containment with negative pressure exhausted to the outside of the house, so you don't contaminate the unaffected area of the house. You can then do a hepa-sandwich ( hepa vaccumming of all surfaces in the containment, followed by soap and water solution wipe down with a rag, followed by another hepa-vaccumming). I would not encapsulate and wood framing, but that is just me, with leave it there when you can safely remove the mold.

The other option is basically the same, but it included physical removal of the moldy building materials instead of wire brushing them. This step is also under negative pressure, and you will need to hepa sandwich or hepa vacumm at least once.
I would not advise using acids, vinegar or bleach. These only mask the mold and does not kill it. Try it, put bleach on mold, it will be back within 2 months. It simply bleaches the color so you don't see it, meanwhile the mold feeds on the bleech nutrients and comes back bigger than before.

If you need any more help, you can look up online the following book that all the restorer's refer to.
- New york city Guidelines.
- IICRC S520 Standard and Reference Guide for Professional Mold Remediation.

If you have any question, feel free to reply or to pm me.

jigijunk 02-13-2012 12:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by joecaption (Post 852501)
This house can turn into a money pit real quick.
There has to also be mold in the ceiling, in the walls, behind the trim as well as that floor.
As well as possible wood rot behind that fashia.
The carpet and padding as to go, not just be cleaned.

Forget the steam cleaner idea.


carpet and padding is going to be replaced with hardwood

joecaption 02-13-2012 01:08 PM

http://www.cdc.gov/mold/cleanup.htm

jigijunk 02-13-2012 01:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by laflsyl10 (Post 852537)
First and foremost, you need to control the water leaking into the house to prevent mold growth from re-occuring.
For the wood framming, you can simply use a metal wire brush and sand it down. To do this effectively, you need a small containment with negative pressure exhausted to the outside of the house, so you don't contaminate the unaffected area of the house. You can then do a hepa-sandwich ( hepa vaccumming of all surfaces in the containment, followed by soap and water solution wipe down with a rag, followed by another hepa-vaccumming). I would not encapsulate and wood framing, but that is just me, with leave it there when you can safely remove the mold.

The other option is basically the same, but it included physical removal of the moldy building materials instead of wire brushing them. This step is also under negative pressure, and you will need to hepa sandwich or hepa vacumm at least once.
I would not advise using acids, vinegar or bleach. These only mask the mold and does not kill it. Try it, put bleach on mold, it will be back within 2 months. It simply bleaches the color so you don't see it, meanwhile the mold feeds on the bleech nutrients and comes back bigger than before.

If you need any more help, you can look up online the following book that all the restorer's refer to.
- New york city Guidelines.
- IICRC S520 Standard and Reference Guide for Professional Mold Remediation.

If you have any question, feel free to reply or to pm me.


To prevent water from coming in, the handyman said to repair the flashing and there is a small gap behind flashing that he said he can put water proof caulk.

between the 'brick' faschia and the moulded windows, he said he would do the same and that should take care of the water coming into property.

inside home
-remove all carpeting material
-attack with mold removal product from local hardware store or from here
http://www.cleanertoday.com/MOLD-Killer-s/80.htm
-then scrub and remove with hepa vac
-apply caliwel or some similar mold inhibiting paint

repeat above in basement

SingleGuy 02-20-2012 01:14 PM

Look into oxygenated bleach. It worked wonders on my outside deck that had mold, algae, gnomes, you name it, growing on it. You could then take a wet/dry vac and ensure all water is out. Just a thought.


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