Lots of issues - before staining concrete

catchacold

I am on a concrete slab that had glued down flooring. I had horrible buckling and just an overall bad time with the floor. So, I ripped it up and cut my loses.

I would like to stain the concrete about 288 sq ft. But, I have a couple of issues going on and I don’t know where to start.

I need to remove the glue, fix a foundation crack, and a bunch of holes where the concrete came up with the wood floors.

Is it possible to knock out all my concrete floor issues just by applying a self-leveling concrete or anything else over top of the glue, cracked foundation and the other holes?

If that is possible, would it be wise to mix a color with the concrete to create a nice stained finish?

Do I install an anti-fracture membrane first, then a SLC?

I am also thinking of radiant heating since this probably would be the best time to install.

There is so much info on the WWW that I am confusing this job more than it needs to be I think.

catchacold

Okay - This is what I am thinking now.


Nail down plywood over the existing floor. Then put down the roof tar paper, then the electric coils, pour concrete and stain.



Any idea's, thoughts?

wnabcptrNH

If you are going to put down plywood, install 1" foam over the floor and tape the joints to help with moisture and heat loss.

As for the concrete over the plywood I have no experience with that but I know people do lightweight for radiant floor heating. Personally, I would just do tile instead of stained concrete.

__________________
Everything I state on this forum is an opinion I have developed based on my experience and research as a professional.

catchacold

Yeah good idea about the moisture barrier first.


I honestly thought about tile - But, i don’t like grout - too hard to clean and keep clean over the years unless you use a darker color.

federer

interesting ideas-keep us posted. i am thinknig of doing a similar project but for floor of the porch outside

catchacold

Well - At this point I am just going to go ahead and scrap the floor and get all the glue up. Then I will be fixing the crack and other holes. Thats it for now, until I can figure out whats next.

teepee105

I myself took on a project like this last year. It turned out wonderfully, AFTER much prep. Old carpet and pad removed well. Glue did not. Required acetone scrubbing and a floor machine in places. Don't use a grinder unless you want to see the marks. It was tedious and didn't come out perfectly, but it is so nice looking and is only an additional TV/living space/man cave, so we didn't care. Our dilemma was flooding from a clogged downspout in torrential downpours last April. The carpet was ruined, but luckily after pumping all the water out, the basement wasn't moldy and the cedar paneling below the chair rail was unscathed. After the prep, I used an acid stain I found online and there are so many color choices. You want one that actually REACTS with the concrete, so do your homework!! Many are just like paint and can chip. This kind will not do that. The website shows examples and the distributor actually does this for a living. They were extra helpful, too!! you will need a 2 gallon pump sprayer with NO metal parts. (less than $30.00). You will need a shop vac after rinsing after the reaction process. Fans to dry. microfiber mop to apply sealant, then you wax it with as many coats as you want for sheen. We placed a nice piece of carpet seamed on the edges for warmth and ouila!! new shiny brown/copper/concrete floor! I plan on doing my outdoor covered patio in the spring. Hope this helps!!

Attached Thumbnails

     

catchacold

well in the end I decided to buy some inexpensive laminate from IKEA and a vapor barrier and install myself. I have had no problems with this floor so far and its been quite awhile since its been installed. Guess wood on concrete never works, at least with my experiences. The laminate looks good and no buckling, scratches, dents from dropping stuff or any other problems I had in the past with real wood.