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Old 05-14-2014, 01:36 PM   #16
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Leveling up for tile


Okay JAZ...she's all yours!!!

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Old 05-14-2014, 07:20 PM   #17
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Leveling up for tile


Quote:
Originally Posted by Bud
Okay JAZ...she's all yours!!!
I don't want her!!

I saw the beginning of this thread 2 days ago and when I read Jack mention installing CBU or 1/4" luan on a slab, I knew he didn't yet have the basic understanding to tackle a floor tile job, irrespective of the large tile size potential problems.

When Cleveman & Bud suggested doing some research, I figured he'd read a few instruction sheets and come back with more Q's. Not so. By golly he has a 'puter and pays for internet service and someone should tell him what he wants to know. Common attitude as you know.

Jack, you said you've looked around, asked some store owners and spoken with installers. I hope none of those gave you the add a board idea.

Be careful when searching the internet and especially You Tube. Many, if not most of the You Tube how-to-video's have errors, some are really bad. I suggest you read manufacturer's data sheets and also come here again if you have questions concerning recommended methods and products. Someone will help, be patient.

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Old 05-14-2014, 10:15 PM   #18
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Leveling up for tile


When I suggested doing more research, I meant this as a polite way of saying that you have no idea of what you are doing and you should study the situation further.

I think the use of a threshold will be your easiest and least expensive solution.

Obviously, you can use a floor leveler to fill the space as necessary. It will be expensive, but effective. I doubt you have the experience to install it successfully.

You could also take out the low floor completely and re-pour the concrete to your desired height.

Likewise, you could remove the high floor and re-pour the concrete to your desired height.

You could also go in the low area and lay a layer of tile, then lay your finish tile on top of the "filler layer".

But what I would like to see you do is to go with your idea of the tilebacker. You and I know this can be done. I wouldn't believe any of the guys who say it is impossible. First thing is to find some tapcon screws with a bugle type head and buy up a few boxes. Read the fastener schedule and get enough. Then simply mortar down the tilebacker and screw it on.

You'll want to get a few masonry bits to fit the screw size. Pre-drill the holes, then drive home the tapcons.

Or you can use a method which as far as I know was developed by myself to attach sill plates to basement floors. You will simply pre-drill the tilebacker according to the fastener schedule, set it in place without any mortar underneath, and mark each hole with a drill bit or concrete nail or something.

Next, remove the tilebacker and drill a pilot hole for an anchor or plastic plug. I like to drill these with a water spray bottle in one hand and a hammer drill in the other hand, continually wetting down the drill bit.

After you have drilled the holes, simply fill them with plastic anchor plugs, then mortar the floor and have your way with her.

Either way, you will get a lot of satisfaction in doing this yourself.

I get a lot of satisfaction out of sharing my knowledge and helping people learn and do things themselves and I hope this helps you.

Remember to post photos of your work and good luck to you and may the superior being be beside you.
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Old 05-14-2014, 10:37 PM   #19
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Jazman, thank you for the response. I'll admit several things about my ignorance on this subject.

I didn't quite understand the virtual 100% contact from CBU to slab problem that one would have without fasteners. Surprisingly little in spec sheets defines the reason why this is unacceptable but they're decidedly clear that it was not to be done.

The lauan things even embarasses me that I said it.

It was actually a tile store owner that suggested the Hardiebacker, but I will state that he said it would void warranties and was not "allowed" by the manufacturer. He said that's the way they typically laid tile in the store that gets a considerable amount of foot traffic for 18-24 months. Said it makes it easier to remove and put in a new display.

I'll try one more question and hopefully not annoy anyone further with my ignorance.

I'm installing 6 x 24 porcelain faux wood tiles from Lowes. They seem (by eye) to be pretty straight and I've laid a few boxes out and they don't seem bad.

I plan to do a 33% overlap to limit lippage.
I'm debating about notch size but think I may do better with a 1/2 inch trowel since the floor isn't dead smooth.
I'd like the tightest grout line possible but was told sanded grout was more forgiving and I think that makes my minimum 1/8.
I can't find anything in the minimal product literature that defines the grout line required.

Am I getting anywhere close to correct on this installation?

Sometimes I have been known to overthink problems.
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Old 05-14-2014, 10:45 PM   #20
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Thanks Cleveman,

I actually have started this evening. I used Gorilla Glue on a sheet of lauan under the Hardibacker, then vinyl tile mastic, then the Hardiebacker. I then used my Ramset to permanently fix this to the slab. So far so good!

The wifey and I have pretty much decided that those peel and stick tiles look almost natural and we'll probably have the job done by noon tomorrow. I'll post pix.
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Old 05-14-2014, 10:58 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by d56auction View Post
Thanks Cleveman,

I actually have started this evening. I used Gorilla Glue on a sheet of lauan under the Hardibacker, then vinyl tile mastic, then the Hardiebacker. I then used my Ramset to permanently fix this to the slab. So far so good!

The wifey and I have pretty much decided that those peel and stick tiles look almost natural and we'll probably have the job done by noon tomorrow. I'll post pix.
Yup, that's what I used, peel and stick. It's not ceramic tiles but there is a lot of science involved with laying a tile floor and I just don't have the time to do the research. This considering the fact that I have actually done a tile tub surround with satisfactory results. Satisfactory to me that is. I don't think anyone would pay me for my workmanship. a tile floor is a different animal altogether, much less forgiving than a wall.

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