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Jeekinz 10-06-2008 12:34 PM

Leveling a floor - need framing/subfloor advice - Pics
I'm just rounding 2nd on this flooring project. This is a second story 14x12 bedroom. The subfloor was originally higher than the hallway from half-assed renovations throughout the homes 90+ years in existence.

Tore up 1/2" thick plywood subfloor over sleepers and found this:

I removed the sleepers, an old fir floor, and most of the original T&G subfloor. The sistered joists were from a reno in the late 80's.

The joists are out diagnally to the room, here's the lowest part. You can see all the BS at the threshhold to the hallway.

I made a water level, and using the hallway floor height I laid out some strings to sister some new joists.

I installed the 2x10's using construction adhesive and 3 1/4" framing nails every 15" or so.

QUESTION: The bays are 24". Should I use blocking under the edge of the subfloor where it gaps the bays? I probobly should have purchased T&G but since it's so F-ed up I passed on it. Or should I install more joists between the bays, 12" OC? For that I would still have to use blocking at the ends since thre's no useable ledger on either side.

Tileworks 10-06-2008 10:26 PM

What kind of floor covering is going back in there?

The reason I ask, being a tile guy, is that tile or stone floor covering would definitely need to be up to snuff so that it doesn't fail right away.

But in regards to carpet, vinyl, laminate, or wood, I don't believe the standard are so rigid, if there are any standards at all.

If it were tile, I would add extra joists, and if stone, then also double the plywood to greatly reduce between-the-joists deflection.

But if it is any of the others, I lean towards thinking that blocking will be sufficient. After all, it was supporting hardwood and carpet to begin with, right?

- Bob

Jeekinz 10-07-2008 08:01 AM

Thanks for the reply.

Carpet will be going back down.

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