laying stamped concrete over old tile

bwalley · 02-10-2009, 09:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ccarlisle

Kimmarie: We work with the stamped concrete industry and do acid staining and overlays - both inside and out - but the one thing you need is a concrete base. Not a wood floor. Not a good tiled floor. Concrete.

Look at it this way: take our advice and remove the tiles. Don't take the advice of making a soupy concrete mix. Do it right the first time.

Cut corners and you'll end up regretting it. Unless, of course, you can live with a crumbly, cracked floor that looks like hell. If that's your standard, then we can't help you.

The soupy concrete was a joke, I figured since he was ignoring good advice, I would tell him what he wanted to hear.

ccarlisle · 02-10-2009, 10:02 AM

OK gotcha!

You might think some DUYers would just take that advice and get a $10 bag of cement and get to it.

ccarlisle · 02-10-2009, 11:34 AM

Kimmarie:

You may be able to get away with a ceramic tile floor using a product called DITRA...a few condition have to be met but it is possible to put ceramic on top of vinyl tile without having to take up the vinyl.

But I still think stamped concrete is out.

yesitsconcrete · 02-12-2009, 07:25 AM

we usually remove tile 1st but, on occasion, have placed conc over existing tile,,, it can be done but probably not by the avg or, even, above avg diy-er.

the progression of work's as follows: clean existing tile, apply epoxy coat, fill epoxy to rejection w/aggregate, place conc.

don't get excited 'cause there are several items/materials/methods i haven't listed & you won't even know the definitions we use in the trade,,, this is pro work.

Vegemite · 02-13-2009, 08:36 AM

Nice to see another Blue Bleeder on the forum. Judging by your font and typing style I am gonna guess you are the

talks-on-multiple-forums-yik-yak? LOL

ccarlisle · 02-13-2009, 11:15 AM

Well, we use a number of tools to remove tile depending on the size mostly; we use long hand scrapers with a blade on the end about a foot wide for small things and an electric hammer saw for things like shower pans.

Failing that, a hammer, cold chisels and eyeglasses will get you pretty far.

yesitsconcrete · 02-13-2009, 12:00 PM

veggie, that's MR. YIC-YAC to vous

at least get my name right - scheeesscchhhhhhhhhhhh ! ! !

to the others, if you've the diy-er's copious free time, carpenter's 16oz/mason's 2# hammer works well w/brick chisel,,, if you're a pro, bosch chipping gun & 6" chisel's the best bet.

Floorwizard · 02-13-2009, 02:10 PM

Wow. What a thread.
At least I am happy if someone did not take the advice of a pro, they wouldn't get harmed. They would just be out time and lots of money.
Tile over tile is also a risk. Maybe it's considered acceptable, but sometimes even though there is no hollow spots right now, the tiles can later lift up due to thinset "pulling" some of the old tiles as the Mortar cures.

john5mt · 02-13-2009, 09:11 PM

Any of you in Montana (preferably in the greater helena area) go ahead and give it a try. It should work since it is so dry here. Just in case it doesnt work out for ya shoot me a PM and i'll fix it for you for a good price

andreahammett · 03-20-2012, 01:20 PM

Joasis (or any other professional),

I have a question for you. I have this baby blue tile floor with large grout in my kitchen. I have scrubbed and "resealed" (product I bought at home depot) and it is really dirty again. I don't mind doing the work but I would love something that will actually last more than a couple of months. We are looking to do an addition with kitchen remodel in a couple of years, so I don't want to do anything too drastic or expensive that will be removed with the remodel. Any suggestions? I had thought about self-levelling concrete or some type of other cheap solution but after reading your comments I don't want to do something that will fail or that will cost me a ton of cash!

Thanks