Large Porcelain Tiles for Shower Walls

**oh'mike** · 02-11-2013, 09:11 PM

This 'modern' thinset and Durrock makes tile work much simpler than the old ways---

When you buy your spacers (if you don't have them yet)--get the round ones from Lowes--they are easier to use than the X shaped ones---not worth a special trip if you have the cross shaped one already--

Also a bag of small rubber wedges fron the Home Depot--those are helpful with the bottom course.

I use a ledger board and leave the bottom tile for last--the weight of the tiles frequently shifts the bottom tile-----some times I will start at the bottom---but rarely---

JazMan · 02-11-2013, 09:50 PM

Hi Jim,

I see you're progressing well.

That was the "neat cement" method you were describing, when was that, the '70's?

I haven't had good luck with the round spacers for walls, the Tavy brand. They kept falling out. I think they'd work on a floor, if I used spacers on floors.

I usually use the + with just one point inserted, they wanna fall too, but not as bad. Actually small pieces of tile-box cardboard make the best spacers. I like double thickness and you can compress them if needed. Don't leave them in too long though, cuz they'l tear when pulling them out.

Jaz

**BigJim** · 02-11-2013, 10:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by oh'mike

This 'modern' thinset and Durrock makes tile work much simpler than the old ways---

When you buy your spacers (if you don't have them yet)--get the round ones from Lowes--they are easier to use than the X shaped ones---not worth a special trip if you have the cross shaped one already--

Also a bag of small rubber wedges fron the Home Depot--those are helpful with the bottom course.

I use a ledger board and leave the bottom tile for last--the weight of the tiles frequently shifts the bottom tile-----some times I will start at the bottom---but rarely---

Man, you got my attention now, I never heard of rubber wedges, how do you use them? If you don't start at the bottom where do you start. I like that ledger board idea, that will insure a good straight run. I did get the round spacers, they just looked like they would work best.

While I am thinking about it, how do I drill a hole in the porcelain, a diamond hole saw?

**oh'mike** · 02-11-2013, 11:18 PM

The wedges are hard white rubber ---they are needed for fine tuning the tiles where they meet the pan---also handy when the side wall meets the back wall to keep the tiles from sliding---

Ledger---I use whatever straight wood I have----usually plywood rips left over from cabinet making---a good straight 1x4 will do if you don't have scrap---

the ledger makes the work fast and straight----do your layout on the wall--so you have good large cuts,top and bottom---figure out where the second tile row will be---and screw that ledger onto all three walls----

leave the bottom row for the second day---

Diamond core drill with a plastic stick on guide---easily found at any big box store----
The drill bits are dirt cheap on Ebay--but you must wait-----I buy 1/4" bits for about a $1 each from Hong Kong in bags of 10----but the delivery time is slow---

**BigJim** · 02-11-2013, 11:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by oh'mike

The wedges are hard white rubber ---they are needed for fine tuning the tiles where they meet the pan---also handy when the side wall meets the back wall to keep the tiles from sliding---

Ledger---I use whatever straight wood I have----usually plywood rips left over from cabinet making---a good straight 1x4 will do if you don't have scrap---

the ledger makes the work fast and straight----do your layout on the wall--so you have good large cuts,top and bottom---figure out where the second tile row will be---and screw that ledger onto all three walls----

leave the bottom row for the second day---

Diamond core drill with a plastic stick on guide---easily found at any big box store----
The drill bits are dirt cheap on Ebay--but you must wait-----I buy 1/4" bits for about a $1 each from Hong Kong in bags of 10----but the delivery time is slow---

Thanks Mike, that is a big help. Hopefully I will have the studs furred out by tomorrow and get on the durock, I did get the durock screws like you suggested. I hope I got a handle on the tile now. I got the shower valves figured out without having to buy any more. I have the ceiling lowered also, I think we are in good shape, so far. I really appreciate it buddy.

**BigJim** · 02-15-2013, 04:56 PM

The durock is in and the seams and joints are taped and thinset applied to the joints. How long do I wait to put the Redguard on, I have a fan blowing on it now.

I saw the spot on the inset, I already fixed that.

JazMan · 02-15-2013, 09:57 PM

Jim,

I'm concerned how the Durock meets the fiberglass base. What happened? That's not gonna cut it if I'm seeing it right.

Jaz

**BigJim** · 02-15-2013, 10:05 PM

Jaz, the durock overlaps the base lip by 1 inch, the two ends turned in because of the lip so I took the back side of the rock out and put thinset and fiberglass tape over the edges to reinforce. I went ahead and ran the thinset all the way down to the ledge on the two ends. What I plan to do is cut the durock back on the end walls and fill with 100% silicone so water won't wick up to the durock. The back wall just overlaps the lip by 1 inch, Will that work?

JazMan · 02-15-2013, 10:22 PM

The end walls look like are both bowed in, might be the wide angle lens though. I tried to magnify the back wall and darn if it looks like the base protrudes in from of the Durock. I may not be seeing it right. Do you have a link to that base so I can see a diagram?

Jaz

**BigJim** · 02-15-2013, 11:08 PM

Whew, scared me there, the walls just look that way, the camera must have made it look like that. I put a straight edge on all of the walls and there isn't more than a heavy 1/16th out of being totally flat. I plumbed and leveled everything and measured to make sure there is the same distance top, middle and bottom. Here is a picture of the shower pan standing on end before I installed it. The back wall the rock over laps the lip by 1 inch. By all means if I goofed somewhere please let me know I don't have enough steam to tear it out and do it over. I appreciate it Jaz.

The front edge is on the floor.

I just went back and looked at the pictures, man, you are right, the end walls do look bowed big time but they aren't.

JazMan · 02-15-2013, 11:12 PM

OK Jim, false alarm. I've never seen that design. And if the sides are plumb, it must be the lens.

Jaz

**BigJim** · 02-15-2013, 11:20 PM

Man am I glad to hear that, I always appreciate any help you can give me Jaz.

**oh'mike** · 02-16-2013, 06:54 AM

Looking good--I'm glad Jaz is keeping an eye on this----he spots everything ----

I usually wait 24 hours before Red Guard----brush and roller---cover the pan well----that stuff is difficult to remove from finished surfaces----Keep a 'finger bucket' of warm water close by so you can keep the tools/hands/finished surfaces clean as you go---

Just a tip---cut the handle of your brush so it will fit into the bucket with the lid on---there is no way to clean the brush---best to just put it into the bucket and close the lid----

**BigJim** · 02-16-2013, 10:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by oh'mike

Looking good--I'm glad Jaz is keeping an eye on this----he spots everything ----

I usually wait 24 hours before Red Guard----brush and roller---cover the pan well----that stuff is difficult to remove from finished surfaces----Keep a 'finger bucket' of warm water close by so you can keep the tools/hands/finished surfaces clean as you go---

Just a tip---cut the handle of your brush so it will fit into the bucket with the lid on---there is no way to clean the brush---best to just put it into the bucket and close the lid----

Thanks Mike, that is a big help, I kinda figured the brush and roller would be shot. I put a fan in the room all night last night so I think it is about as dry as it will get for right now, I also have the heat cranked up so it would dry faster. How long do I have wait before we can get the redguard wet? Would it be OK if we covered it up and took a shower tonight?

**BigJim** · 02-16-2013, 04:47 PM

The Redguard is done, that stuff will make your coffee taste funny not to mention make ya drunk. I rolled the first coat, then used a brush and made sure all of the pin holes and little bubbles were filled completely for the second coat, just finished the third coat. I think we are in good shape now. I put 4 coats in the little inset area. Hopefully the tile will be complete next week.