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Old 01-24-2013, 04:51 PM   #61
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Large Porcelain Tiles for Shower Walls


The shower valve will probably work backwards, but there may be a problem with proper gpm flow. Ask your question at the plumbing forum at this site. Click above near the header.

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Old 01-24-2013, 05:04 PM   #62
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Depends on the brand and model--but my guess is --no--the newer mixer valves are not simple water shufflers---they have a pressure balancing cartridge--so nobody gets scalded if the hot or cold water pressure changes suddenly----

you may need to go to a plumbing house for a proper valve.
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Old 01-24-2013, 06:26 PM   #63
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Depends on the brand and model--but my guess is --no--the newer mixer valves are not simple water shufflers---they have a pressure balancing cartridge--so nobody gets scalded if the hot or cold water pressure changes suddenly----

you may need to go to a plumbing house for a proper valve.
I didn't think about that, well back to the drawing board. After thinking about the valves I will need three shut offs instead of two anyway. I am trying to stay away from the manifolds because they are out of our reach. I have found fairly nice looking shut off valves on line but they are the really cheap ones and I don't think they will hold up long. There has to be a way to have all three fixtures working without breaking the bank.
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Old 01-24-2013, 10:09 PM   #64
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Large Porcelain Tiles for Shower Walls


Exactly what are the three fixtures?

Could two separate mixer valves be used and one switching valve?
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Old 01-30-2013, 02:30 PM   #65
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Exactly what are the three fixtures?

Could two separate mixer valves be used and one switching valve?
I don't know how I missed this post. Mike there is a 1.5 gpm shower head with a Delta one leaver scald guard valve on one end and there will be a 2 gpm shower head in the center over head sort a like a rain shower. On the other wall at the seat will be a hand held sprayer and shower head combo. I have it figured out now, I think. The old valve I took out I reworked as it is a Delta and in great shape. I reinstalled it below the new scald guard valve and hooked the feed into the same shower head as the new Delta.

The old valve had a shut off for the shower or the tub. It isn't the type where you have to pull a nob up on the tub spout, this one you just turn the center valve. I am going to use the center valve to go to the over head shower head and the hand held at the other end. I will need a two way valve to divert the water from the over head shower to the hand held. Here is the set up I posted in another thread. The supply line for the over head and hand held is stubbed out pointing downward in the lower valve.

I plan to install T&G western cedar overhead after I drop the ceiling over the shower. I do not plan to use any trim on the ceiling, I can cut it close enough where none is needed. My question is, should the cedar ceiling butt the tile, or should the tile butt the ceiling.

Here is the way I have it plumbed now.
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Old 01-30-2013, 02:38 PM   #66
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Large Porcelain Tiles for Shower Walls


You are a better woodworker that you are a tile setter----I vote tile first--then wood--

You might even want to 'bread board' the cut ends--that would not add much to the work and give the bead board a nice finished end----
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Old 01-30-2013, 02:45 PM   #67
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You are a better woodworker that you are a tile setter----I vote tile first--then wood--

You might even want to 'bread board' the cut ends--that would not add much to the work and give the bead board a nice finished end----
You are right, I have done way more wood working than tile. I don't follow you on the bread board cuts on the ends, you know how I am, kinda thick.
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Old 01-30-2013, 04:48 PM   #68
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Instead of the cut end butting against the tile-----add a strip of the cedar to that edge first--then bitt the cuts against that----a groove in the 'bread board' and a tongue on the strips would really keep the ceiling looking trim---

Think of the way you would end a hardwood floor around a hearth----or at a doorway.
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Old 01-30-2013, 06:04 PM   #69
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Instead of the cut end butting against the tile-----add a strip of the cedar to that edge first--then bitt the cuts against that----a groove in the 'bread board' and a tongue on the strips would really keep the ceiling looking trim---

Think of the way you would end a hardwood floor around a hearth----or at a doorway.
Now I see why you make the big bucks, that will look sharp buddy, thanks a ton.
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Old 01-30-2013, 06:08 PM   #70
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Little details add a lot----
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Old 02-11-2013, 06:24 PM   #71
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Large Porcelain Tiles for Shower Walls


I am at the point of installing the durock. Today I built the inset and discovered there are very few studs that are plumb, what a mess. Here is the deal the shower base is close enough to level to call it that, maybe just a fudge out but not enough to worry about but, with the back wall is almost an inch out of plumb and the base maybe 3/16" out of level, I don't know exactly which way to go.

I cut a straight 2X4 and took a tile and set the tile down on the base and the back edge of the tile against the 2X4 to see how out of hoo doo it is. If I rip a 2X to fur the back wall to fit the tiles it is going to look somewhat out of plumb, I think. The first run of tiles will have to be cut to work out the way I want them to layout anyway. If I rip a strip to make the back wall in plumb and cut the first run of tiles on the side walls to keep the same margin at the bottom I think that would be the least conspicuous. Does this sound about right.

Remember I am an ole nail whooper, they use to call us, "Pouncy pound and the nail driving five"
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Old 02-11-2013, 07:39 PM   #72
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No tub or shower base is perfect---so count on a cut on the first row----

Any way to sister in some studs to plum up the walls?
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Old 02-11-2013, 08:24 PM   #73
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No tub or shower base is perfect---so count on a cut on the first row----

Any way to sister in some studs to plum up the walls?
I just about have it furred out now. Another question, on the durock I have 3 feet on the side walls, can I just stand the durock up the five foot way or do I have to stack it the 3 foot way?

On the thinset, do I put the fiberglass tape on the seams then put the thin set into the tape or do I make the thinset really smooth in the joints, let dry the put the fiberglass tape over the thinset joints?
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Old 02-11-2013, 08:36 PM   #74
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Stand up the narrow side of the shower----taping---first press some thinset into the gaps--then top with the mesh and add the thinnest possible layer of mud----the mesh will show---that is okay--
the Red Guard is thick and will bridge small gaps-

You do not want a hump---thin---very thin is best---
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Old 02-11-2013, 08:54 PM   #75
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Large Porcelain Tiles for Shower Walls


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Originally Posted by oh'mike View Post
Stand up the narrow side of the shower----taping---first press some thinset into the gaps--then top with the mesh and add the thinnest possible layer of mud----the mesh will show---that is okay--
the Red Guard is thick and will bridge small gaps-

You do not want a hump---thin---very thin is best---
Thanks buddy, you are a life saver. I wish I had stuck around and watched the tile guys now. I have done tile where I had to put in a thick mud bed, soak the tile in water over night and use dry portland sprinkled on the mud bed as an adhesive but this new day materials I haven't used but a few times.

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