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Old 01-19-2013, 05:31 AM   #46
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Large Porcelain Tiles for Shower Walls


Install the drain set before you install the pan---
don't be concerned with any mortar that fall through the hole into the crawl space--

the pan has plenty of strength to bridge the gap by the drain--and any voids created buy some uneven coverage in the mortar --

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Old 01-19-2013, 09:50 AM   #47
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Install the drain set before you install the pan---
don't be concerned with any mortar that fall through the hole into the crawl space--

the pan has plenty of strength to bridge the gap by the drain--and any voids created buy some uneven coverage in the mortar --
Thanks buddy, I appreciate that. I will let you know how it goes after I replace all the floor.
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Old 01-23-2013, 07:40 AM   #48
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Large Porcelain Tiles for Shower Walls


I got the floor joists replaced that needed it and reenforced just to be sure. I have the new floor down and have sealed all cracks around the outside with the spray foam. I have the hole cut for the drain and the drain fitting on the pan. Some of the lower plates were gone so I replaced the ones around the shower for now and will get to the others as I dig into the walls.

The floor had a 1/2 inch hump in it so I fixed that, the walls were out of square and were not straight at all so I corrected that. I am at the point of putting the mortar under the base today and setting it.

Question, do I need plastic on the plywood under the base before I put the mortar bed down?

One more question, how long do I have to stay off the base after I put the mortar and base down?
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Old 01-23-2013, 10:40 AM   #49
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Large Porcelain Tiles for Shower Walls


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Question, do I need plastic on the plywood under the base before I put the mortar bed down?
Yes. Use plastic or tarpaper. Then staple the lath, you're using lath right? So I don't have to read all the post again, (I don't recall) are you doing a traditional shower or Kerdi?

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Old 01-23-2013, 02:34 PM   #50
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Large Porcelain Tiles for Shower Walls


Hey Jaz, no I put a fiberglass base in today already. I can't stay on my knees long enough to put the real shower in we wanted so we had to settle for a fiberglass base. I am going to tile the walls and build a red wood seat that we can remove. I haven't figured out how I am going to make cleats that won't leak though. I also plan to make a couple of recesses and plenty of grab bars.

I still have to frame in for the plumbing but at least for me the hard part is done. I mixed the mortar a little too stiff but we finally got the base down like it should be. All is level and the drain is hooked up and working perfect, I am a happy camper today. The weather turned out to be nice and sunny and almost warm here today so it was the perfect time to crawl under the house.

I will have to go back under the house again before I finish the bath, I saw where a repaired water line is not long for this world. Someone hooked galvanized pipe into copper pipe. I will take the galvanized pipe out and run copper, I don't want to do it but once.
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Old 01-23-2013, 03:03 PM   #51
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Large Porcelain Tiles for Shower Walls


OK, the mortar base is for the fiberglass base.

Glad the project is going well. Glad, and envious about the warm weather too. High here yesterday was 12, it's 18 today.

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Old 01-23-2013, 03:25 PM   #52
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Good to hear that part is done!

I'll think about that seat mount
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Old 01-23-2013, 03:34 PM   #53
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OK, the mortar base is for the fiberglass base.

Glad the project is going well. Glad, and envious about the warm weather too. High here yesterday was 12, it's 18 today.

Jaz
Good gravy, that is cooooold, I sure hope it doesn't get that cold here, we don't have permanent heat yet. We have two of the little oil filled radiator heaters and it keeps the house toasty warm, so far. The lows so far have only hit the high teens but our house is small and doesn't take much to heat.

Talking about cold weather, I had one house that a customer wanted just the trim and stairs, I told him he needed heat in the house for his benefit. He was too cheap to turn the heat on, I told him all of his joints would open up about two or there months after they turned the heat on. They turned the heat on, painted and moved in, and sure enough almost every joint in the house popped open. He called me and asked what I was going to do, I told him, nothing, I told you that would happen. He was not a happy camper.
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Old 01-24-2013, 08:57 AM   #54
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Large Porcelain Tiles for Shower Walls


I was just reading on the redgard container the coverage, it says it will cover 35-40 sq ft, is this correct? If so I will need another gallon.(walls are 77 sq ft)

For a cleat for the Red Wood seat hopefully the Redgard and porcelain will be good enough. I try to make sure there are no voids behind the tiles by back buttering so hopefully this will be solid enough to hold.
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Old 01-24-2013, 12:36 PM   #55
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You're gonna use 2 gal. to achieve the proper wet/dry mil thickness. Apply 2 coats.

Apply a second coat at right angles to the first coat. Periodically check the film thickness with a wet-film gauge. Combined dried coatings must be at least 30-35 mils thick. When wet, the combined coatings must be at least 60-70 mils.

Do you have a wet-film gauge? http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=...Q9QEwBQ&dur=34

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Old 01-24-2013, 12:38 PM   #56
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Do you have a wet-film gauge?

Other than this, what do you (meaning you literally) use a wet film gauge for?
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Old 01-24-2013, 01:09 PM   #57
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Large Porcelain Tiles for Shower Walls


It's used to gauge anything that is applied wet. Like paint, if you have to check and meet certain specifications. Don't buy one though. They're available from distributors at no charge usually.

If you're a "tile guy" and use liquid applied membranes but don't use a wet-film gauge, people are liable to look down at you. Lots of guys buy Redgard at HD cuz it's easy to find and cheaper than other membranes but just slap on a thin coat so it turns the substrate red and that's it. YIKES!

I know a tile guy who uses Hydroban, buys it in 5 gal. pails. (big bucks, more than Redgard), he used to just apply it to get an even layer. No gauge and probably just one coat. Then while discussing it he was told the right way. He was using less than half the minimum amount. He's otherwise a very good tile setter and bathroom remodeler. Me, I use Kerdi and sleep well.

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Old 01-24-2013, 01:23 PM   #58
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It's used to gauge anything that is applied wet.
Yes I know but I was asking what you personally have used it for (other than RedGard of course.)

It's not much use for things applied with a notched applicator (for example I have applied garage floor epoxy with a notched squeegee.)

I can't see it being much use for paint, because a) a rolled on film is "bumpy" (variable thickness), and b) you can gauge that by sf coverage anyway based on the spec sheet film thickness provided.

I don't use RegGard.

So I'm just looking for an excuse to get another tool
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Old 01-24-2013, 02:06 PM   #59
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It's used the gauge paint thousands of times every day. Get one, it'll probably be at no charge. it's just a small piece of aluminum, and hopefully not radioactive. (p.j.)

In the case of the notched squeegee, that is the gauge. As for paints, sometimes it's kinda impossible to measure square feet coverage. All high-tech contracts call for a specific mil film thickness in order to get paid. The "super" isn't going to stay there to measure area and hand out paint.

Call Laticrete, they'll send you one..or four. Henry was sending them out to us a while back.

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Old 01-24-2013, 03:36 PM   #60
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Large Porcelain Tiles for Shower Walls


Thanks Jaz, looks like another trip to home d. I looked at the cost of Hydroban today, it is twice the price of Redgard. I also read if you over apply the thickness it will void the warranty also. If you ever have a claim with Redgard the rep will check with one of the little gauges, to thick or too thin and they are off the hook.

I have a plumbing question and it is a little strange. Will the valves for a shower work in reverse? What I mean is, will the valves work if water pressure is applied to the outlet port and supplied to the two inlet ports? I want to use a regular shower valve to divert water from the shower port of the main shower valve to two other shower fixtures. I just didn't know if it would work backwards.

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