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Old 01-15-2013, 09:59 PM   #31
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Large Porcelain Tiles for Shower Walls


Thanks Mike, I got the valves figured out today, all I will need is two, two way valves. I will check out the Pex, I have never used it before, I still have a bunch of copper fittings and some copper pipe left. I plan to run the overhead pipe under the sheet rock that is there now and add 2 inch rigid styrofoam insulation as an added measure. The attic is well insulated already so I think that will work.
Here is where I am now, I did finish tearing out the rock on the back wall. Also a couple of pictures of the half bath we built before we started the full bath.
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Old 01-15-2013, 10:08 PM   #32
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I like the colors in the 1/2 bath---

Your plan for the plumbing will be fine---I've done that in this area and not had a freezing problem---
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Old 01-16-2013, 08:10 AM   #33
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Large Porcelain Tiles for Shower Walls


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We want to install 12X12 Porcelain tiles on our shower walls. I am using a factory composite shower base, mainly because I can't get down on the floor very well anymore. I want to run the wall tiles on a 45 degree angle and we will have a tumbled marble border in the walls. Is this a bad idea or will it work?
Fine. Wall tile is preferable to floor tile for walls.

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I am using 1/2" Dur-rock with RedGard water proofing, I am using fiberglass tape for the joints of the Dur-rock. What grid should the screws be on the Dur-rock?
Just read the Durock instructions.

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Another question is, how good is Mapei modified thinset and Mapei grout. Will this work with Porclain.
It's a fine company, but of course like most companies they make more than 1 line of thinset and grout.

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I have unsanded grout as I plan to have a 1/8" grout line or should I go with a sanded grout with a 1/4" grout line?
I think a sanded 1/4" grout line on a shower wall would tend toward the ugly side.

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Another question, we want glass shower doors, will the doors mount on the tile or the wall with the tile butting the glass door trim behind. The tile is going from shower base to ceiling.
The door mounting hardware goes on top of the finished tile. Make sure you have double studs in the wall behind the tile where you want the doors to go. Cutting the holes for the mounting screws through tile is pretty easy.

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Old 01-16-2013, 01:09 PM   #34
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Large Porcelain Tiles for Shower Walls


Thanks Jeff, I appreciate your input. I can't remember which I have now, sanded or unsanded, I will have to look.

I had thought about quartering all the 12" tiles but then I thought about how to edge them and how accurate I could cut them consistently so I forgot about that.

Today I am working on getting the rest of the sheet rock out, I see some rot behind the commode also. While getting the wainscoting from behind the commode yesterday I messed the seals up from the tank to the base so now I will need to replace them while I am at it. I should have just taken the commode out of the way to start with.
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Old 01-16-2013, 01:12 PM   #35
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I had thought about quartering all the 12" tiles but then I thought about how to edge them and how accurate I could cut them consistently so I forgot about that.
I'm glad you did
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Old 01-16-2013, 01:25 PM   #36
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Sounds like fun----That's the joys of remodeling an older house---some surprises are always hiding behind the wall board.
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Old 01-16-2013, 05:34 PM   #37
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For crying out loud, I am really thinking aren't I, man, this getting old stuff is for the birds. Thanks for keeping me straight buddy.
Getting old ain't for sissies.
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Old 01-16-2013, 05:40 PM   #38
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For crying out loud, I am really thinking aren't I, man, this getting old stuff is for the birds. Thanks for keeping me straight buddy.
Getting old ain't for sissies.
As long as you can get to it also but blocking around toilet for grab bars. You never know.
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Old 01-16-2013, 06:34 PM   #39
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Getting old ain't for sissies.
As long as you can get to it also but blocking around toilet for grab bars. You never know.
Ain't that the truth.

I put one of my tarps around the tub so we could take a shower and not having anything at all to hold on to was scary. I told Judy we were going to have grab bars everywhere.

Wes, our grandson came by after school again today and helped me out a lot. All we have to tear out is the wall behind the commode. Wes is a real life saver, he has helped me so much and I really appreciate it a bunch.
Tomorrow the tub is coming out, I hope.
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Old 01-17-2013, 10:06 PM   #40
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Got a little more done today, the tub is out and I can see what I need to replace from top side, I will look under tomorrow and see what needs replacing under there. I was surprised to see no more damage that there actually is.

Mike, I have a shot of the bottom of the shower base, how thick should I make the mud base under the shower base? The instructions call for plaster to be mound up in four places then set the base forcing the plaster to spread out under. Would I do the mortar the same way?

Here are the pictures.
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Large Porcelain Tiles for Shower Walls-bath-001.jpg   Large Porcelain Tiles for Shower Walls-bathroom-5.jpg   Large Porcelain Tiles for Shower Walls-bathroom-7.jpg   Large Porcelain Tiles for Shower Walls-bathroom-8.jpg  
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Old 01-18-2013, 03:55 PM   #41
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I put the base in place to see what all I would need to do to get ready to set it, the first thing, cut the hole for the drain and wouldn't you know it. And the joists are red oak and hard as Superman's knee caps.
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Old 01-18-2013, 04:11 PM   #42
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Damn----I hate it when that happens!!!

Any possibility you could shift the location a couple of inches??

As to the mud under the pan--I usually make about 8 piles about the size of a cow patty---enough that when you push, wiggle and press--the pan ends up sitting flat.

That joist is one reason I build so many pans by hand---
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Old 01-18-2013, 05:14 PM   #43
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Damn----I hate it when that happens!!!

Any possibility you could shift the location a couple of inches??

As to the mud under the pan--I usually make about 8 piles about the size of a cow patty---enough that when you push, wiggle and press--the pan ends up sitting flat.

That joist is one reason I build so many pans by hand---
I wish I could but I can't. I will just head the joist off in a couple of places and be done with it. I took the underlayment and sub floor up a little while ago, one joist is rotten and one is not even there at all. No insulation under the floor either so this will give me a chance to put more in.

Thanks for telling me about the mud, This what I was looking for.
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Old 01-18-2013, 05:16 PM   #44
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Your house sure has had some water damage over the years----at least you can do some of that from the top--
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Old 01-18-2013, 11:31 PM   #45
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Your house sure has had some water damage over the years----at least you can do some of that from the top--
That water has been pouring in through a 3 inch hole in the roof since 1994 and we didn't know it. The hole can't be seen from the ground.

I got a question, when I put the mounds of mortar under the base, I know the drain fitting must be fastened to the base permanently as I can not take the base back up, right? Do I put some mortar where the drain fitting is so that part will be supported?

I have built membrane bases with the grout and laid tiles using Portland back when we had to soak the tiles over night. I wonder why they stopped doing it that way, it sure was easy and quick. I just have never installed a fiberglass base before. I appreciate your help Mike.

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