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Old 07-11-2012, 11:18 PM   #16
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Large Porcelain Tiles for Shower Walls


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Originally Posted by Blondesense View Post
Been there, done that. One trick I learned after the fact was to wet the durrock with water just before taping the seams. I didn't and the CBU sucked all the moisture out of the thinset.
Do you think I should dampen the Durock before tiling also?

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Old 07-12-2012, 02:27 AM   #17
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Large Porcelain Tiles for Shower Walls


I back-buttered all my tiles, so I didn't notice the same problem setting the tiles. I assumed it was more of an issue taping the seams because with the minimal amount of thinset used it dries out much easier.
Perhaps Jaz will help us out here, I really don't know for sure.
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Old 07-12-2012, 06:33 AM   #18
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I've never dampened Durrock before tiling---I have heard of folks doing that with Hardi backer--I don't use that product myself--

Jim, You will be sealing the rock with Redguard---so the issue will not apply to you any way---
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Old 07-12-2012, 08:11 AM   #19
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I've never dampened Durrock before tiling---I have heard of folks doing that with Hardi backer--I don't use that product myself--

Jim, You will be sealing the rock with Redguard---so the issue will not apply to you any way---
For crying out loud, I am really thinking aren't I, man, this getting old stuff is for the birds. Thanks for keeping me straight buddy.
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Old 07-12-2012, 09:13 AM   #20
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Large Porcelain Tiles for Shower Walls


My bad. Mike, you're right, I did use hardiebacker not durrock. But you tape the seams before you appy Redgard or whatever.
I don't know if durrock is as..., well, can I say sucky?
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Old 07-12-2012, 09:36 AM   #21
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Hardi sucks out the juice--I've never had that problem with Durrock
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Old 07-12-2012, 07:50 PM   #22
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Large Porcelain Tiles for Shower Walls


Well I tore into the wall for adding the half bath today and my grandson and I picked up literally a large coffee can full to the top of used razor blades someone had trashed down inside the wall and of all things, there are two old galvanized pipes right where I plan to put the linen closet door.

We have the old three tower electric heat and I plan to take it out and hopefully get new heat before next winter.

It looks like I may have to cantilever the outside bath wall by about 10-12 inches as we are getting mighty close on space in there, I guess we will see later.
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Old 07-12-2012, 10:18 PM   #23
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I was thinking you could make a temporary shower with plastic over a floor drain. You could actually do that outside too in the right environmen

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Old 07-12-2012, 10:50 PM   #24
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I was thinking you could make a temporary shower with plastic over a floor drain. You could actually do that outside too in the right environmen

Jaz
Jaz I have been thinking how I might be able to do that, I thought about installing a 2 inch drain line to the little sink that will be in the half bath, I could use the old shower fixture for the temporary shower. Come to think of it, we have a small shower tent that we used when we built a little teardrop camper a few years ago. The little tent is to the left of the little camper in the picture. I am going to give it a try and see if it will work.
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Old 07-12-2012, 11:09 PM   #25
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In the case of a laundry room, you just hang plastic and use a garden hose attached to the laundry tub.

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Old 07-13-2012, 09:17 AM   #26
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In the case of a laundry room, you just hang plastic and use a garden hose attached to the laundry tub.

Jaz
That would sure work but our house is so small we don't have room for one of the laundry room sinks. That is a good idea though.
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Old 01-14-2013, 10:56 PM   #27
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I finally got started on the bathroom tear out today. A few things got in the way of the bath makeover. I did get a little torn out today and found as I thought, quite a bit of rot in one of the walls so far. I also got the roof to leaking some way.

I am trying to do the tear out systematically so we don't have to be without the tub/shower for too long . I plan to do the plumbing first and leave the tub in place until the sheetrock has been removed around the tub. Hopefully there won't be much needing replacing.

We want to have a seat in the shower but we want to be able to remove it or fold it up so it will be easy to clean. We plan to use the hand held at the seat because we have to sit to shower at times. We want one of the rain type fixtures over head then a regular shower where the shower is now. I have all the heads except for the rain one. Will I need a three way valve or a four way valve for this set up.

I plan to drop the ceiling about 3 1/2 inches or so over the shower to run the pipes through, or should I make the ceiling lower for the overhead shower? Hopefully we plan to use T&G Western Cedar on the ceiling. Should I seal the cedar totally top, ends and bottom or not seal it at all. I will try to get some pictures tomorrow.
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Old 01-15-2013, 06:41 AM   #28
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I'd seal all surfaces on the cedar----as to lowering the ceiling---how high is it now? Will the rain head be at a comfortable height?

Before you hang your rock---add lots of blocking for grab rails---doors--spray wand bracket---

And take pictures with a ruler in the frame so you can remember where the blocking is---(Forgot that part a few times,myself)
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Old 01-15-2013, 09:38 AM   #29
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I'd seal all surfaces on the cedar----as to lowering the ceiling---how high is it now? Will the rain head be at a comfortable height?

Before you hang your rock---add lots of blocking for grab rails---doors--spray wand bracket---

And take pictures with a ruler in the frame so you can remember where the blocking is---(Forgot that part a few times,myself)
Man, if you had been my business partner back a few years we could have been rich now, you come up with some things I never thought of buddy.

The ceiling in our bath is 8 foot, I don't like the idea of running pipes in the attic with the chance they could freeze. I did think of the blocking but not taking pictures of where they will be, that is just too neat. We will for sure have grab bars, we are at that age now.

Buying a package deal for the fixtures is totally out of our reach, that is the reason I was asking about the valve to control each fixture. The hand held, I plan to use, is the one I just took out yesterday and is only a few months old. We have most of all we need, I think, so far. I do know we will need some lumber and RedGuard, the valve and rain fixture, but this fixture can wait, I will stub out and cap it off for now.

I thought with the 32" shower base I would have to move the commode but there is room without moving it, I am happy to say.

I have a question about the main valve we bought a few months back. The valve we bought looks exactly like the one for the tub and shower but no spout, I will get a photo of it later today. If this valve is for the tub and shower I could use the outlet for tub to go to the over head fixture. Hmmmm, I see I need to think about this one for a while, I will need a valve from this outlet to control the over head and a valve to shut off the over head and a valve to shut off the main shower for the hand held on the back wall. This could get good. Got to do some drawing to see what can be done.

Pictures coming up soon.
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Old 01-15-2013, 07:18 PM   #30
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You may need to visit a plumbing supply house for the transfer valves--there are several types --

When to have an idea exactly what you want to do---we will step in with the kind you need.

If overhead piping is needed----consider PEX---that has the best freeze/burst rating around--
and it's inexpensive and fast to install--We can't use it here---except for hydyonic heating---

Pex will make your attic run much safer.

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