Large Porcelain Tiles for Shower Walls

**BigJim** · 07-09-2012, 10:30 PM

I am at the point of starting to install a walkin shower to replace the tub in our small bathroom. It has been a while since I have done tile and there are so many new products on the market that I haven't even heard of so I am needing help and have a ton of questions.

We want to install 12X12 Porcelain tiles on our shower walls. I am using a factory composite shower base, mainly because I can't get down on the floor very well anymore. I want to run the wall tiles on a 45 degree angle and we will have a tumbled marble border in the walls. Is this a bad idea or will it work?

I am using 1/2" Dur-rock with RedGard water proofing, I am using fiberglass tape for the joints of the Dur-rock. What grid should the screws be on the Dur-rock?
Another question is, how good is Mapei modified thinset and Mapei grout. Will this work with Porclain.

I have unsanded grout as I plan to have a 1/8" grout line or should I go with a sanded grout with a 1/4" grout line?

Another question, we want glass shower doors, will the doors mount on the tile or the wall with the tile butting the glass door trim behind. The tile is going from shower base to ceiling.

I have been reading on the forum and have seen some mistakes I would have made had I not read here. I appreciate any help I can get.

**oh'mike** · 07-09-2012, 10:57 PM

Mapie makes good setting materials---and grout--let us know what exact one you are considering--I usually use white thinset--much easier to clean the squeeze out.

door is mounted to the tile---hopefully you have a stud in line with the door---easier to hang the door--but you can work around a missing stud and attach right to the tile,

Diagonal on a wall adds a challenge--your cuts need to be tight--1/8 inch where the walls meet--

Often it is easiest to lay out the tile on the floor---and transfer the wall measurements to the layed out tile---like a sheet of plywood---

Spacers are your choice--I often use 3/16" with 12x12--1/8 is a little small and any lippage will be very obvious.

Back buttering the porcelain on a wall is a good idea---

**BigJim** · 07-09-2012, 11:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by oh'mike

Mapie makes good setting materials---and grout--let us know what exact one you are considering--I usually use white thinset--much easier to clean the squeeze out.

door is mounted to the tile---hopefully you have a stud in line with the door---easier to hang the door--but you can work around a missing stud and attach right to the tile,

Diagonal on a wall adds a challenge--your cuts need to be tight--1/8 inch where the walls meet--

Often it is easiest to lay out the tile on the floor---and transfer the wall measurements to the layed out tile---like a sheet of plywood---

Spacers are your choice--I often use 3/16" with 12x12--1/8 is a little small and any lippage will be very obvious.

Back buttering the porcelain on a wall is a good idea---

Mike, the thinset is Mapei Ultraflex with Polymer, white.

I will be sure to put a double stud where the shower door mounts, that is a good idea.

I will be sure to back butter.

What size trowel teeth do I need to use. The Porcelain is 1/4 inch, I think, it may be thicker, I will check to see.

Can I use unsanded grout with a 3/16 grout line?

I like the idea of laying out the tiles on the floor first.

The shower base has supports at different places on the bottom of the base, should I bed the base in anything or will it be OK on the subfloor?

**oh'mike** · 07-10-2012, 06:50 AM

1/4 x3/8/x/1/4 will do---

3/16" requires sanded grout---1/8" is okay for unsanded although some shrinkage can occur so be careful not to over wipe the grout--

I usually bed the pan in masons mortar--I'd need to see the pan to tell you not to bother--I always have set the things with mortar.

If you are still in the framing stage---add wide blocking for future safety grab rails---they never seem to fall on a stud--and how would you know where a stud is after tiling?

**BigJim** · 07-10-2012, 08:18 AM

Thanks Mike, I will take the unsanded grout back and get the sanded. Judy said she didn't want the tile run on a 45 degree after all so that will sure make it easier.

On storing the Durock, can I stand it on edge, I really don't have a good place I can lay it flat in the house. Our house is really small but that is all we need.

I will be sure to use blocking where the grab bars will go, we are at the point now that we really do need them. I got a feeling this is going to take a long time to complete. I just know some of the joists will need replacing.

I hope to be able to install the base and use it while doing the rest of the walls. I will put plastic up so the walls and things won't get wet when we take a shower.

I will take a picture of the base and post it a little later. When we bought the shower valve and head we had a hard time understanding why the valve and shower head was $24 higher than the same thing but with the tub spout. The valve we have looks exactly the same as the tub set, it has the opening at the bottom for the tub spout. The fellow there just said Delta makes the price, we don't. I said thank you, that was very helpful.

**BigJim** · 07-10-2012, 09:00 AM

I just read the instruction PDF and it says the Durock can not be stored on edge. I have a shed but it gets very hot in there and the Durock will be in there maybe three weeks or so, the best I figure. Will the heat hurt the Durock and how long after I hang it should I let it acclimate before applying the Redguard?

JazMan · 07-10-2012, 08:28 PM

Jim,

It's best to store the boards flat, but I've broken that rule many times, no problem. Try to stand them as vertical as possible, maybe a partial sheet of ply or a board behind them so they don't bow.

I would use sanded grout even with 1/8" gaps. Some brands of sanded can even go 1/16". I think you get a better joint, looks better and easier too. I recommend min. 3/16 too unless it's really high quality tile. If you got it at one of the big boxes, stay with 3/16 or 1/4". Was this 12x12 tile $2-3 or was it $5 and up?

Thank goodness for Judy, all diagonal would be no fun.

Jaz

**BigJim** · 07-10-2012, 10:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JazMan

Jim,

It's best to store the boards flat, but I've broken that rule many times, no problem. Try to stand them as vertical as possible, maybe a partial sheet of ply or a board behind them so they don't bow.

I would use sanded grout even with 1/8" gaps. Some brands of sanded can even go 1/16". I think you get a better joint, looks better and easier too. I recommend min. 3/16 too unless it's really high quality tile. If you got it at one of the big boxes, stay with 3/16 or 1/4". Was this 12x12 tile $2-3 or was it $5 and up?

Thank goodness for Judy, all diagonal would be no fun.

Jaz

Jaz, it isn't the high dollar porcelain so I'll go with a 1/4 inch joint, I will exchange the unsanded for the sanded grout.

I carried the Durock back out to the storage and laid it flat, it does get very hot out there but hopefully it will acclimate in two days after it is hung. Do I need a backer for the Durock or just screw it to the studs?

JazMan · 07-10-2012, 11:35 PM

If you're applying a surface membrane, screw the Durock to the studs with no plastic or tarpaper. Using a surface membrane is the best way. Heat will not affect the board, you'll be fine.

Jaz

**oh'mike** · 07-10-2012, 11:51 PM

Jim--If you water proof it correctly--you can use the shower until you get the tile set--after all.it's waterproofed---

As to the mixer valve---if the tub valve was cheaper than the shower valve---you could have used the tub valve---the brass plug must be made with gold--the valves are the same---I have several extra tub spouts thanks to the goofy pricing.

**BigJim** · 07-11-2012, 08:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JazMan

If you're applying a surface membrane, screw the Durock to the studs with no plastic or tarpaper. Using a surface membrane is the best way. Heat will not affect the board, you'll be fine.

Jaz

Thank you Jaz, I really appreciate you.

**BigJim** · 07-11-2012, 08:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by oh'mike

Jim--If you water proof it correctly--you can use the shower until you get the tile set--after all.it's waterproofed---

As to the mixer valve---if the tub valve was cheaper than the shower valve---you could have used the tub valve---the brass plug must be made with gold--the valves are the same---I have several extra tub spouts thanks to the goofy pricing.

I didn't think of that but you are right, it will be waterproof.

That is just the craziest thing I have heard of, we had to pay $24 for them not to put the spout in the box and they didn't even give us a plug for it. It is just as well, I plan to put a handycap handheld sprayer at a built in bench so I can use the tub outlet for the sprayer, all I will need is a two way valve, I think. I may need two two way valves, I need to think on that one for a while.

I checked online yesterday for one of the slide bar type hand held sprayers and thought I had found one but it turned out to be too good to be true, it was all plastic.

Since I will need to run extra pipe back to the sprayer, would you run the pipe under the shower base laying on top of the floor or through the wall, which is exterior, or maybe under the floor?

Thanks Mike.

Blondesense · 07-11-2012, 10:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jiju1943

I am using 1/2" Dur-rock with RedGard water proofing, I am using fiberglass tape for the joints of the Dur-rock...
...I have been reading on the forum and have seen some mistakes I would have made had I not read here. I appreciate any help I can get.

Been there, done that. One trick I learned after the fact was to wet the durrock with water just before taping the seams. I didn't and the CBU sucked all the moisture out of the thinset.

JazMan · 07-11-2012, 07:58 PM

If you properly caulk the bottom and apply surface waterproofing, you can use the shower without tiles. BUT, be sure you clean the Durock before tiling. Shampoo, cream rinse, soap film and body oils are not adhesive friendly, you know. Do you have a basement?

Jaz

**BigJim** · 07-11-2012, 11:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JazMan

If you properly caulk the bottom and apply surface waterproofing, you can use the shower without tiles. BUT, be sure you clean the Durock before tiling. Shampoo, cream rinse, soap film and body oils are not adhesive friendly, you know. Do you have a basement?

Jaz

That is good to know Jaz, I appreciate it. No we don't have a basement we have a crawl space.