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-   -   laminete hardwood 4 door openings 1 wall (http://www.diychatroom.com/f5/laminete-hardwood-4-door-openings-1-wall-179446/)

brizzle 05-13-2013 12:27 PM

laminete hardwood 4 door openings 1 wall
 
Memorial day weekend i plan on instaling laminete hardwoor in my living room and hallway.

1 wall that is very long. This is where i plan to start. the 1 wall has 4 door opening. I have read that you notch the piece of hard wood to tuck under door jambs using a flush cut saw on the bottom of the door jambs. If i do this that would mean i would have to cut all other pieces the same width along the wall that has no door openings.

Can i just start in the corner using my 1/4'' spacer and keeping old trim (not shoe molding up) butt up next to it. run straight long line threw living room down hallway. Then after go to each door opening cutting little notch piece to attach to first row. i realize i will prolly have to cut the door jamb pieces first and install them and attach long row to them.

Stupid question. How do you keep long row straight? Considering my walls my not be true the whole way down.

Im buying a miter saw and flush cut saw. I plan on buying the 6'' cut dewalt miter saw. Will that be wide enough to cut the flooring? or do i need saw longer cut? what tooth blade should i use. Do you cut from top or bottom?

Im also borrowing a table saw.

Thanks for any suggestions.


http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...pse4f90f8e.jpg

http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...psafe467aa.jpg

joecaption 05-13-2013 04:43 PM

With laminite you will need a transition strip at all door openings.
DO not want trasition strips then use engineered flooring not laminite.
Engineered flooring increases the value of the home, laminite lowers it.
A 6" compound saw:eek:
That would be useless, even a 10" may leave a tab of material uncut.
With a compound saw it's cut good side down, a table saw is good side up.

brizzle 05-14-2013 02:01 PM

http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...ps4183f906.jpg

I understand i need transition piece. the new floor will be where the carpet is. Do i run a line down up against trim (using 1/4'' spacer). then when i get to door jamb i cut piece to run up to transition piece (keeping the 1.4 space and not nailing down floating floor).

Or do i run a large transition piece up to the new floor line where runs along trim.

As far as a saw to buy. Atleast 12'' sliding miter saw?

As far as value i agree that real hardwood would increase value. But considering i have carpet now i believe the new laminate hardwood would sell better considering we have a smaller house decent neighborhood. Saying we don't have big fancy house the best neighborhood. We are trying to get the best roi.

Thanks

Seattle2k 05-14-2013 10:01 PM

saw size really depends on the width of the floor pieces. I'm assuming you could get away with non-sliding 12" or sliding 10". My neighbor has a Harbor Freight miter saw and it gets the job done (meaning, it may not be accurate enough to trim out a house, but it'll cut stuff).


And to help layout your first course and ensure that it's straight, a chalkline would be advised.

joecaption 05-14-2013 10:35 PM

The trasition strip go in the middle of the doorway where the door stop moulding is.
That way you only see one type of flooring when the doors closed.
I strongly suggest you down load all the install directions on the companys website on the brand your installing. It's all there in black and white on how to install it.

ubcguy89 05-14-2013 10:49 PM

you will want to strike a control line and adjust it to how out of square your wall. the easiest way to do so is strike a line measuring off outside walls then pull 3,4,5 off the line (adjust for how big your room is) and strike a line to 90 deg off the opposing line. that line is square to the room. next adjust your wall cuts to the line (both sides your wall cuts should be even or at least close. you can use your control line to keep floor straight

lazzlazz 05-15-2013 01:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by joecaption (Post 1178525)
With laminite you will need a transition strip at all door openings.

He's kind of stuck putting the transition strip at the edge of where the carpet is now - which is at one side of the doorway, given that that is where the flooring for the adjacent room ends.

lazzlazz 05-15-2013 01:47 AM

You're not going to waste that much cutting the strips, and the floor will work & look better than it will if you try to cut a piece to fit in just each doorway.

JetSwet 05-15-2013 08:18 AM

If the manufacture of the laminate doesn't state that a transistion between rooms is required you can continue to the adjacent rooms regarding you will need to keep the same directions.

Laminate doesn't lower your value of your home. It doesn't raise it although it will hold a better value over carpet.

brizzle 05-18-2013 10:47 AM

Couple more questions. Sorry. I do aprechate all of your alls inputs.

So went to lowes bought our flooring. Laminate Style selections w/ swiftlock technology 8 mm. This flooring has the padding under the planks.

We have wood subfloor. Do i need the moisture barrier? Lowes flooring guy said no. what is your guys opinions?

Insttructions for installing floor are very vague.

Open few boxes to lay out some boards to have a plan drawn out BUT notice some boards are bowed. They have banana look. Is this normal and how much of tolerance can i use so that boards will lay flat when other boards are hook together. I have read no more than double AA battary roll under board on a flat surface.

As far as lay out in rowing. Start with 1 full piece and end of row cut piece use scrap piece to start next row. Do i do this the enitre room?
1rst row on the wall do i have to rip the tongue lip off or i can leave it there?

Thanks


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