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bryanp22 07-30-2013 10:21 AM

Laminent floor on concrete floor
We are considering putting laminar my flooring on our basement floor. The floor is uneven as well. Can you use self leveling cement even with walls that are framed and have Sheetrock if the self leveler would touch the drywall or do I need to use something like dricore in this situation?

alexjoe 07-30-2013 02:14 PM

You should balance the uneven level of floor with the help of professional and expert persons.

bryanp22 07-30-2013 02:17 PM

Then why would I come to a DIY forum? Doesn't make a whole lot of sense. If I wanted that I'd be looking on angieslist for a contractor.

MTN REMODEL LLC 07-30-2013 02:47 PM


Originally Posted by bryanp22 (Post 1223017)
Then why would I come to a DIY forum? Doesn't make a whole lot of sense. If I wanted that I'd be looking on angieslist for a contractor.

Agree with you on that Bry.....:yes: Those responses amaze me sometimes.:whistling2:

I would hope one of our flooring pro's would weigh in on this.... I'm a GC... so recognize I'm not a flooring pro.

However, I have used my SL on "DRY" slab on grade with carpet covering with absolutely no problem and many years of use.

I think primary concern would be whether there is moisture involved, as laminate, especially a glued TnG verse a click-lock, would not breath at all....

I don't know that it's necessary, but I throw some fiberglass threads in the SL to ensure its binding together... I'm assuming your slab is clean for adhesion of the SL (ie... not painted crapped up dirty or over slick finish)

I'd lay a good vapor barrier underlayment under the laminate also and bring it up behind your baseboard... there are several underlayments that allow some air space and an element of breathability to the underlayment.

However, if you have moisture issues, I would have reservations about the assembly.

Hope the flooring pro's jump in... as they will have direct experience and we have a couple of good pro's that won't tell you "get an expert"


Amateuralex 07-31-2013 09:31 AM

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To my best amateur knowledge, slc would work fine, but it can be pricey depending on the size of the area. Touching framing or drywall is no prob, but you might want to trim the bottom of the drywall afterwards because it's not supposed to touch the floor. You'll of course use baseboards or quarter round or something after the floor is down. Slc is medium difficulty if you haven't used it before. It mixes and pours easy, but it doesn't flow super well and you really have to help it along. Marking specific areas and finding ways to measure it etc is important. Squeegee on a long pole is a good tool.

Most laminates will go on concrete with the proper underlayment, just read their specs and get the right underlayment.

bryanp22 07-31-2013 10:18 AM

So my floor is very uneven and has differences up to 1.5 inches from one side of the room to the other. Would this be an issue without self leveling concrete?

MTN REMODEL LLC 07-31-2013 05:36 PM

Bry...... Assuming you are not bothered by a slope to the floor, the real intent when puttinjg down a floating floor is to have a flat plane (not necessarily level) floor.

This is really to make your floor less bouncy and feel firmer underfoot. (also called floor performance). If you check your product, they will advise something like your floor should not have a 3/8 varience accross 10 feet when you lay a 10 flat (factory edge) straight edge accross it.

If you map out your floor for flat, use chalk to mark your significant low spots...... maybe grind down any significant high spots, you can "fill" low spots with layers of felt or floor filler (Ardex for instance).... and basically flatten your floor. (although we often use the word level)

As above post mentions SLC is pricey.... and as you are not level... it will seek level,... not necessarily filling in your low spots to flatten the floor.

Besides "flattening" your subfloor/slab, thicker laminate and glued TnG verse click locks, can also help with the floor feel/performance.


Gary in WA 07-31-2013 10:29 PM

You could get condensation on the laminate in the spring. Find your location and add 10*F to it for being 6' underground warmer;

Last page;

PS. MTN Remodel, I answered (belated) an earlier question of yours lost in the shuffle;

MTN REMODEL LLC 08-01-2013 05:35 AM


Originally Posted by Gary in WA (Post 1223599)

PS. MTN Remodel, I answered (belated) an earlier question of yours lost in the shuffle;

Gary.... You sure did.... I never saw it.... thankyou.....:thumbsup:

....even though it was flooring.... it might have been a "little over my head" :laughing:.... but I got the jist of it. :yes:



BrianAM 08-02-2013 03:29 PM

I am new to the forum, but this is something I know about.
I agree as for the slope in the floor, is it something you can live with? Is it noticeable?
Basement subfloor/ vapor barrier shouldn't be allowed to breath. If it breaths it allows the moisture and dampness into the basement. It should be sealed.
A strong plastic subfloor is easy to install and seal. The added bonus to a strong subfloor is that laminate can be installed directly on top of it, eliminating the need for a wood subfloor.
DELTA-FL works well in this situation.
I hope this helps. I am looking forward to being involved in this forum. There appears to be a lot of nice people here.

bryanp22 08-22-2013 04:37 PM

Gary My temp would be 62. How thick of XPS would I need on my floor? Ceiling height is at a premium too. How much is the Delta-FL per sq ft any idea? If we went for a vinyl plank floor would that change our approach? Could I attach that directly to concrete or would I still need to either use xps or some type of floating plastic membrane like Delta-FL or dricore?

bryanp22 08-23-2013 08:56 PM

I took a 4 ft level and it appears it slopes about a 1/4 a foot in spots towards a drain that is in my laundry room. The room I am finishing does not have a drain. Towards the middle it slopes less compared initially but perimeter is a concern to me. Is dricore out? I don't really have the height to do the xps and 2x4 sleepers as my average ceiling height is 6' 10". So far do I have any options besides slc or a concrete patching type compound? We are just planning to use allure vinyl planks. Reading the installation instructions it says tolerance is 3/16" over 8'. Does this mean it requires the floor to just be flat with3/16" over 8 feet or level within 3/16th of an inch?

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