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Old 08-01-2008, 05:46 PM   #16
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laminate flooring on uneven sub floor?


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Thanks atlantic. Do i need to fasten the shingles down at all so they won't shift over time or just lay them on the sub floor and then lay the laminate over them. Thanks again guys
No, you do not need to fasten them down, they will not move at all.

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Old 08-04-2008, 04:11 PM   #17
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Hi Atlantic and other flooring gurus --

I hate to bump, but I'm getting ready to start on my laminate job and hoped you could just give me a quick thumbs up or down on whether the shingle solution would work on concrete... and are there any special considerations?

I've done my searching and I can only find it recommended to folks installing over wood subfloors. Will it work for me too, or must I seek another solution?

Thanks much
Justin
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Old 08-06-2008, 12:11 AM   #18
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tar paper i hear this allot I have a similar problem with an area of a floor im working on i need to bring it up a little so I'm going to use tar paper
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Old 09-09-2008, 09:34 PM   #19
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laminate flooring on uneven sub floor?


don't mean to hijack this thread but i have a question pertaining to laminate install on uneven floor my house is approx. 100 yrs old and it has sagged over a concrete wall in my basement... now i read i can use shingles to bring up low points... but what about high points? i need to get the high point down or i will be left with a step where i meet ceramic tile....

floor planer be the best way?


i would say over 4' its probably out 1/2 - 3/4 out


any ideas would be appreciated and thx in advance
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Old 09-09-2008, 11:01 PM   #20
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laminate flooring on uneven sub floor?


you have to grind the high spots for sure.
Not sure which tool is best but others will chime in.
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Old 09-10-2008, 01:42 PM   #21
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laminate flooring on uneven sub floor?


I would recommend being careful grinding down your subfloor. It is a high spot because the support is underneith the high spot and if you grind 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch off your subfloor there will be no strength left. Just something to think about.
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Old 09-10-2008, 03:47 PM   #22
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laminate flooring on uneven sub floor?


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I would recommend being careful grinding down your subfloor. It is a high spot because the support is underneith the high spot and if you grind 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch off your subfloor there will be no strength left. Just something to think about.

actually it isn't a sub floor... its the existing hardwood on top which is 3/4 thick and then i have subfloor below that which is also 3/4 thick..... i think i should be ok but any more input would be great..
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Old 09-10-2008, 04:24 PM   #23
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laminate flooring on uneven sub floor?


I see. Maybe a belt sander or another option if it's 3/4" out of level in 4' would be to rip that 4 feet of hardwood out and then use shims to level it.
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Old 09-10-2008, 08:08 PM   #24
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I see. Maybe a belt sander or another option if it's 3/4" out of level in 4' would be to rip that 4 feet of hardwood out and then use shims to level it.
now that sounds like a plan !!!
i thought about that and that would seem to be the easiest way to go...thx peeps
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Old 04-06-2013, 10:09 PM   #25
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laminate flooring on uneven sub floor?


I see that this thread's last activity was in 2008, but I'm dealing with the same exact thing as these other gentlemen in this post (high spot in floor). I am using Blue Hawk 1/8" Underlayment from Lowe's in the hallway leading to our master bedroom (relatively small area), and so-far-so-good. I am using the same method that someone referred to with using shingles (stacking method) to build up the low spots.

My main problem is in our great room (living room and dining room combined) where I have a pretty good-sized high spot a little past the half way point. The most recent post was referring to cutting out the sub floor so that it's not a high spot anymore and then using shims, shingles (or underlayment in my case) to bridge the gap. I think I would much rather do this than to try to sand the sub floor to the extent that it would need to be sanded.

Any other options? Any draw backs to uninstalling the subflooring?
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Old 04-06-2013, 10:29 PM   #26
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laminate flooring on uneven sub floor?


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I see that this thread's last activity was in 2008, but I'm dealing with the same exact thing as these other gentlemen in this post (high spot in floor). I am using Blue Hawk 1/8" Underlayment from Lowe's in the hallway leading to our master bedroom (relatively small area), and so-far-so-good. I am using the same method that someone referred to with using shingles (stacking method) to build up the low spots.

My main problem is in our great room (living room and dining room combined) where I have a pretty good-sized high spot a little past the half way point. The most recent post was referring to cutting out the sub floor so that it's not a high spot anymore and then using shims, shingles (or underlayment in my case) to bridge the gap. I think I would much rather do this than to try to sand the sub floor to the extent that it would need to be sanded.

Any other options? Any draw backs to uninstalling the subflooring?
1. If you remove the sub-floor you have open floor joists, meaning a hole in your floor. Then you have to install a new sub-floor and when you do you'll have the same high spot unless you fix it, as it's the joists underneath the sub-floor sagging, twisting or rising that is causing your issue. Measure where your high and low spots are and then go under the home and check the joists to see why your floor is uneven.

2. I have an 80 year old home and had a similiar issue with it. After inspecting the joists I discovered my high spot was cause by a single floor joist that had slightly twisted (warped) over the past 80 years. 2 possible solutions to this: Place a support between it and the joist it is warped towards and hope to drive it back to it's correct spot and run the risk of shifting the joist I'll be pushing against. Or find a way to work with it.

I chose option 2 as it does not run the risk of communicating further damage to other parts of the home. In my case I cut out the hardwood floor and sub-floor 32" x 42 " section that was affected. I then cut 2 x 4's into 32" lengths and ran them perpendicular to the joists over top the old ones. As I crossed each joist I marked how high it was at that spot vs. the actual flooring and then notched them on a table saw.

Notching is very easy to do on a table saw, just set the blade to the desired height and then send the 2 x 4 over it for the section that needs notched.

After each 2 x 4 was notched I had a very flat and level floor that was ready to receive it's new flooring. Keep in mind, you want to lay the 2 x 4 across the joists so it is only 1 1/2 " high as this will reduce the amount of notching you need to do. In my case I did 12 2 x 4's and covered the entire area screwing them to each floor joist.

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