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Old 05-10-2013, 09:16 PM   #16
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Your not supposed to pound the laminate to interlock them together, offsetting seams 12" and retain 1/4" perimeter expanston its as simple as that.
No, it's not as simple as that. For one thing, cheap laminate does not always fit well even in the field. That's why it's cheap. For another thing, you will have situations where you are not in the open field. That's why they sell pull bars and tapping blocks.

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Old 05-10-2013, 09:28 PM   #17
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No, it's not as simple as that. For one thing, cheap laminate does not always fit well even in the field. That's why it's cheap. For another thing, you will have situations where you are not in the open field. That's why they sell pull bars and tapping blocks.
Yes correct even spacers to put in between laminate and wall. You can get the "all in one" kit at home depot. Lifting up the board then moving it back down to interlock is the easiest Method and if correctly acclimated can be done with your hand. I have seen the tapping blocks that have been mangled beyond belief and that is not a correct way of useing the block.
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Old 05-10-2013, 10:49 PM   #18
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Lifting up the board then moving it back down to interlock is the easiest Method and if correctly acclimated can be done with your hand.
The entire point is, there are places in most installations (unless you are installing in a super simple square room with no closet) where the board can not be lifted, it has to be slid in, and thus tapped into place. Anyone who has done flooring around closets and doorways and other tight places knows what I'm talking about. And when you start tapping the cheapies, that's when they start going bad. In fact sometimes they don't fit that well out in the field either, and have to be tapped. Thing laminate is cheap laminate, and cheap laminate just doesn't fit as well as good laminate. When it doesn't fit, it has to be forced or thrown away. When it's forced, it starts breaking down, and when it's thrown away the price per foot of the laminate goes up, making it not such a good deal.
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Old 05-19-2013, 07:32 AM   #19
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Met with Lowes and the installer and they claimed that the house temp.should be around 76 and humidity should be between 35-55.Is this true?Armstrong is not taking the blame on the bad product.
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Old 05-19-2013, 08:18 AM   #20
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Met with Lowes and the installer and they claimed that the house temp.should be around 76 and humidity should be between 35-55.Is this true?Armstrong is not taking the blame on the bad product.
Armstrong won't step in unless you directly purchess the product from them. That floor could have been in several different climate changes before installed.
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Old 05-19-2013, 04:16 PM   #21
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Met with Lowes and the installer and they claimed that the house temp.should be around 76 and humidity should be between 35-55.Is this true?Armstrong is not taking the blame on the bad product.


Yes those are optimum numbers for humidity and temp,and i'll bet your house didn't meet either of them,that's their out.
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Old 05-19-2013, 04:26 PM   #22
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I tried some Toscana 12 laminate , using their "tap and go" system on my rent house last year
worked great , didn't have to use pull bars or worry about damaging the tongue with the tap blocks .
you just tap on the top on it until it locks in place and off you go
I even took out an area , and reinstalled it with no problems
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Old 05-19-2013, 08:12 PM   #23
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Actually bought one of those humidity monitors and the house is at 47%,so I have to let Lowes know that and take it from there.Thanks to everyone.I don't know if I should let them install new planks.The flooring is 12mmand the width is 7.60 inches with the beveled edges.Long plank barrel oak by armstrong.
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Old 05-19-2013, 08:23 PM   #24
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Armstrong does not sell direct, only thru retailer or dealer. They have a serious lack of quality control, and do not stand behind the product.

This is what Armstrong deems acceptable. My entire batch is more red than the 2 samples. They won't even admit the issue exists. I had to open the boxes to investigate the issue, and the return policy does not accept open boxes. I strongly suggest to stay away from Armstrong Flooring and Bruce hardwood.

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Old 05-23-2013, 07:42 PM   #25
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Has anyone heard that there has to be more transition strips so the floor stops squeeking?I have the flooring from the master bedroom,study,living room,dining room,kitchen,laundry room,and family room all connected.All the same kind.Any suggestions.I guess they want to put one at the master bedroom door connecting to the living room.Another one between the living room going to the kitchen.Does this make sense or are they just grasping?Thanks.
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Old 05-23-2013, 07:51 PM   #26
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Has anyone heard that there has to be more transition strips so the floor stops squeeking?I have the flooring from the master bedroom,study,living room,dining room,kitchen,laundry room,and family room all connected.All the same kind.Any suggestions.I guess they want to put one at the master bedroom door connecting to the living room.Another one between the living room going to the kitchen.Does this make sense or are they just grasping?Thanks.
It all depends on manufactures of the floor. I've installed entire 2 bedroom with dinning room apartments leaving just kitchen and bath with no transitions and don't have issues to this day. There is a limit for any laminate before you have to put one in.
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Old 05-23-2013, 08:04 PM   #27
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Has anyone heard that there has to be more transition strips so the floor stops squeeking?I have the flooring from the master bedroom,study,living room,dining room,kitchen,laundry room,and family room all connected.All the same kind.Any suggestions.I guess they want to put one at the master bedroom door connecting to the living room.Another one between the living room going to the kitchen.Does this make sense or are they just grasping?Thanks.

Yes this makes perfect sense as this is recommended, depending on the length.

jet, get a life, your advice is way off base for a supposed pro....
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Old 05-23-2013, 08:13 PM   #28
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Yes this makes perfect sense as this is recommended, depending on the length.

jet, get a life, your advice is way off base for a supposed pro....
Ha! Likewise for you pal.
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Old 12-03-2013, 01:37 PM   #29
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Pergo XP looks to be 10mm so there's some compromise there between that and the "min 12mm"...or what...

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