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-   -   laminate floor -- minimum plank width (http://www.diychatroom.com/f5/laminate-floor-minimum-plank-width-155288/)

curiousburke 08-30-2012 06:35 AM

laminate floor -- minimum plank width
 
Help from anyone with floating floor experience would be greatly appreciated.

I'm installing, or will be installing a laminate floor and I have just an inch between the last board and the wall. I've seen it recommend that the minimum width is 2", but is there a good reason not to use a 1" board or is it aesthetic?

btw, the expansion gap is already accounted for. with the molding, there would be an 1/8" gap on each side.

thanks in advance,
Mark

shadytrake 08-30-2012 08:27 AM

So you are saying that you have an extra 1/8" gap showing outside the baseboard? Do you have a quarter round down? I'm thinking that would solve it but I'm not a flooring pro. I have done a lot of baseboard work in my house though. Whenever I have this issue I either look for a larger baseboard (can be costly) or see if quarter round will work.

One time I actually used some other type of trim (not for floors) because it was larger than quarter round. As long as it is installed correctly then caulked at the seam between it and the baseboard, it looks custom.

My point is, you don't have to use just flooring trim. Other trims will work but your baseboards may look bulkier. I don't have a good pic of the one I did but I'll find a link to show you what I mean.

shadytrake 08-30-2012 08:43 AM

Here you go for a link. I used one like the 1x1 trim and you can't tell that it isn't a custom baseboard except for one thing. It was my first time cutting trim and I forgot to angle my edge at the end. It's white and blends. Only a pro would notice it.

http://jjwohlferts.com/products/prod...ed-Trim-32.jpg

joecaption 08-30-2012 08:46 AM

If you have not even started laying it yet then all you have to do is rip the first row so it's narrower. What ever you take off the first row will make the last row wider by that amount.

shadytrake 08-30-2012 08:53 AM

Or you could make it easier and rip the first row like Joe said. LOL ;)

curiousburke 08-30-2012 09:54 AM

thanks for all the replies.

I looked at thicker base molding, but none of the samples i have would cover it. We prefer not to add shoe molding.

I have not started yet, so I could rip the first row, but I was hoping not to have to rip both sides, plus there is a third wall that would then have a narrow board.

Is there anything bad about having a 1" wide board?

joecaption 08-30-2012 10:05 AM

It's hard to get one that narrow to lock. Just use wood glue on the joint.

When I install laminite I never remove the baseboards.
By doing that I have a solid surface to tap againt, the spacer does not keep trying to slide under the sheetrock.

If this is new constrution and there are no baseboards installed how do you plan on spacing the flooring away from the bottom plates and be able to get it out once the floors done?

shadytrake 08-30-2012 10:05 AM

I don't think it would float very well and tend to shift under the trim. My 2 cents

curiousburke 08-30-2012 01:43 PM

Shadytrake, are you saying it would unlock from the other boards? That would be bad, but I could glue the first row to the second.

It would be nice to know why 2" is recommended, but I'm guessing the manufacturer wouldn't say.

curiousburke 08-30-2012 02:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by joecaption (Post 999774)
It's hard to get one that narrow to lock. Just use wood glue on the joint.

When I install laminite I never remove the baseboards.
By doing that I have a solid surface to tap againt, the spacer does not keep trying to slide under the sheetrock.

If this is new constrution and there are no baseboards installed how do you plan on spacing the flooring away from the bottom plates and be able to get it out once the floors done?

These boards are swiftlock and seem to lock really easy, but glue would be good i think. So have you done 1" boards at the edge and it all works out okay?

sorry, I didn't see this response. This isn't new, but i did remove the baseboards. In my testing, I've just been sticking a thin ruler behind the board, but it's a pain, but since I have a ton of room under my sheetrock, I figured I don't need a big expansion gap. Maybe this is a bad idea, but I thought I could just keep measuring and fixing until I get a couple rows, then stick some heavy stuff on it.

shadytrake 08-30-2012 02:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by curiousburke (Post 999898)
Shadytrake, are you saying it would unlock from the other boards? That would be bad, but I could glue the first row to the second.

It would be nice to know why 2" is recommended, but I'm guessing the manufacturer wouldn't say.

Yes possibly. I had one small section behind my kitchen lowers where I had your situation and I didn't think ahead to rip like Joe suggested. The small pieces unlocked but it didn't matter because they are behind my base cabinets.

joecaption 08-30-2012 03:42 PM

Just "sticking suff on it to weight it down" is just not going to happen.

shadytrake 08-30-2012 03:53 PM

Joe and I don't agree on much but in this case I agree. You either need to rip first, glue at the end, or use a bigger base trim to cover the gap.

Good luck and post a picture when you are done. :)

curiousburke 08-30-2012 04:51 PM

I think I'm going to rip the 1" boards and glue them on. All the other walls line up well if I do that. So here's a question ... 2:

1) how do people normally keep the first few rows lined up with the wall if they have a gap at the base it could push into? Once I get a few on, I can stand on it, which seemed to work with some test boards.

2) If I glue the 1" boards on, should I stagger them? If I do the whole row will be one unit. Only about 1/2" to 3/4" of this board will be showing. They could even be glued pre-install if I don't stagger.

shadytrake 08-30-2012 06:11 PM

Mark,

I have to step aside and let a more experienced person answer but in my case the total gap even under the rock is the recommended gap so that there is no way it could gap too much, loosen, and unlock.

I measured from the absolute spot that stops the floor to get my gap especially if the floor can float "under" the rock.

I think a picture would help others to reply.


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