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Old 08-25-2012, 03:45 PM   #31
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installing tile for easy removal, without damaging subfloor?


As promised, I post the first set of pictures of the job. I added two stripes of 2x4 blocks to the bottom plate to compensate for the height of the (future) subfloor.
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Old 08-26-2012, 04:02 PM   #32
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installing tile for easy removal, without damaging subfloor?


Wedi boards were placed (not set yet) and numbered. Sets of two 2x4x12 were screwed together to make beams over the floor so I can work from above. Now I am ready to install the wedi boards on thin set.
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Last edited by AlfredMD; 08-26-2012 at 04:04 PM. Reason: forgot to attach the picture.
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Old 08-26-2012, 04:14 PM   #33
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installing tile for easy removal, without damaging subfloor?


Quote:
Originally Posted by AlfredMD
Wedi boards were placed (not set yet) and numbered. Sets of two 2x4x12 were screwed together to make beams over the floor so I can work from above. Now I am ready to install the wedi boards on thin set.
Looks like your doing it the hard way cbu doesn't need to be offset, start from back corner and work your way out. Thinset the 4x8 section lay your cbu and then screw them down then move on from there.
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Old 08-26-2012, 08:50 PM   #34
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installing tile for easy removal, without damaging subfloor?


Hey Jet, What do you mean by
Quote:
cbu doesn't need to be offset
Alfred, What the heck are you doing with that raised platform? Since when is that the way we do it?

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Old 08-26-2012, 09:28 PM   #35
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installing tile for easy removal, without damaging subfloor?


Jetswet, with "offset" you probably mean that the boards were staggered. This is in Wedi's installation manual.

Jazman, the surface of Wediboard is not very strong. I worry about compressing them here and there. It does not hurt, anyway.

I worked several hours and got the wedi boards set. Not very level and not very flat either. I will level it later with deck mud after the tubing and reinforcing mesh are down.
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Old 08-26-2012, 09:29 PM   #36
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installing tile for easy removal, without damaging subfloor?


Quote:
Originally Posted by JazMan
Hey Jet, What do you mean by

Alfred, What the heck are you doing with that raised platform? Since when is that the way we do it?

Jaz
Umm it doesn't need to be staggered you can run it any way. So to run it so the seams are running longer will be easier to mesh tape after as well as less sheets to cut on the ends.
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Old 08-26-2012, 10:18 PM   #37
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installing tile for easy removal, without damaging subfloor?


I didn't check Wedi directions, but if it's like other CBU's you must stagger so that 4 corners do not come together anywhere.

Alfred, Wedi is made to walk on while installing and while setting the tiles on it. I know you plan a mud job, how you gonna do that. If you're damaging it, take of your high heels.

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Old 08-29-2012, 11:44 PM   #38
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installing tile for easy removal, without damaging subfloor?


I'm interested in how this comes out... Thanks Alfred for posting pics.

I also have a room on a slab, probably about 300 sq ft or so. Right now it just has some furring strips and a plywood subfloor, but eventually when the carpet is ready to be replaced I might look into something like this.

The room tends to get pretty cold in the winter...

*Note that I'm not going to attempt anything like this for some time, I'm just interested in how yours turns out so keep posting pics if you're able to.

Last edited by ajmckay; 08-30-2012 at 08:49 AM. Reason: clarification
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Old 08-30-2012, 07:49 AM   #39
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installing tile for easy removal, without damaging subfloor?


Quote:
Originally Posted by ajmckay
I'm interested in how this comes out... Thanks Alfred for posting pics.

I also have a room on a slab, probably about 300 sq ft or so. Right now it just has some furring strips and a plywood subfloor, but eventually when the carpet is ready to be replaced I might look into something like this.

The room tends to get pretty cold in the winter...
If you really want help with your project even though its similar then start new thread. Piggy back posts usually get pushed to the waist side.
Thanks
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Old 09-03-2012, 09:22 AM   #40
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installing tile for easy removal, without damaging subfloor?


OK, here are some new updates. After last post I
1. added a window,
2. insulated the stud cavities with stone wool (R15) ,
3. insulated the inside with 3/4 XPS board (R4),
4. made a level and flat reference sting network that is 1 1/2 from the highest point of the floor.

Here are some pictures. The next step is to lay down the tubing.
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Old 09-03-2012, 03:58 PM   #41
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installing tile for easy removal, without damaging subfloor?


The raised platform did not get a use. I can walk on the wedi boards without crashing them.

Today I laid down all the tubing. 300 feet is just right, without one foot more or one foot less. The spacing is 8.5 inches so that the two ends can go to the same place.

I first measured and marked the floor. Then I made some notched 2x2 studs to help spacing the tubing. I was very careful, because one single kink will void all the effort.
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Old 09-08-2012, 01:50 PM   #42
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installing tile for easy removal, without damaging subfloor?


After 14 hours of non-stopping (except of restroom, water and breads) single handed work, deck mud is in. A "supersac" of 1.5 tons of concrete sand and 5.5 bags of Portland cement was used for 210 square feet. The surface is very level and flat. I am pretty satisfied with it.

Basically the tubing (PEX-AL-PEX) is laid loosely on the floor (the notched 2x2 studs was removed during deck mud installation), the reinforcing welded steel bar was laid loosely on top of the tubing. I used pieces of 2x4 in between the rebar grid to walk around, and after the deck mud is packed I walk on top of it. I used 2 feet long 2x4 to beat the deck mud, and I don't think I de-shaped the tubing by doing that.

Now comes the very question from the title of this thread. Do I need to install Ditra on top of deck mud? I do not worry about movement, nor do I worry about water proofing. I just need an easy way to insure that in the future when I want to replace the installed tiles, will I be able to replace only everything on top of Ditra, without touching the deck mud and rebar and tubing?
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Old 09-09-2012, 09:56 AM   #43
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installing tile for easy removal, without damaging subfloor?


OK, It seems what I want (easy to replace tile) is unique. I did a google search today and found ProVa-Flex, which is close to Ditra. I guess from the non-dovetailed waffles of Prova-Flex that when I pull tiles in the future the tiles might come out with thin-set and the glued-on-mesh on top of the ProVa-Flex plastic, and leave the plastic undamaged. And when I install new tile I might only need to find a new mesh and somehow glue it to the plastic. I might give it a try.
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Old 09-09-2012, 11:05 AM   #44
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installing tile for easy removal, without damaging subfloor?


Personally I think you are crazy but you do what you want. If you use "that" underlayment without the dovetails the tile will remove itself in a short time. Law suits abound over that product failing. But since you seem to want to re-invent the wheel at every turn then go right ahead. Have you noticed, people have stopped responding to your comments? Why is that do you suppose?
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Old 09-09-2012, 06:29 PM   #45
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installing tile for easy removal, without damaging subfloor?


Thank you. I think I look crazy because I am new and learning, and my ideas look crazy but almost always I follow the suggestions you guys give me and abandon ideas that are not good. I do not stick to my ideas blindly. I think people did not comment only because I followed the standard (of the deck mud thing) and there is nothing exciting to comment on.

I admit that wedi board may not be the best solution to insulate from the bottom. I might just use XPS boards which are cheaper. Other than that, all I did were standard. I used thin-set to install wedi-board, screwed them to the slab (yes I did that), fiber-glass taped the seams of the boards, used PEX-AL-PEX, rebar and 1.5 inch of deck mud.

For the latest step, I know Ditra is the standard. But I am afraid I might not do a good job with tiling and my wife might change her mind in the future of the choice of tiles. So when time comes for me to re-tile, I just do not want to do that deck mud thing again (14 hours of non-stopping single handed mud work). There are people who think thin-set might not stick as good to the top-side of Prova-Flex as to the dovetail waffles of Ditra, and that might be just what I need. If that is the only concern people have, I might give Prova-flex a try. But there could always be things that I overlook. Any comments are welcome.

Best,
Alfred in MD

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