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Old 11-23-2011, 03:49 PM   #1
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How would you do the transition for this bathroom?


I'm going to tile the bathroom, but I'm not sure what should be done for the threshold. For the bathroom, I'm going to lay down 1/2" sheetrock, then tile on top of that. That will raise the floor roughly level with the hardwood flooring (hardwood is 3/4" thick) or at most upto 1/4" higher than the hardwood floor.

So the question is, how would you do this? Install durock/tile upto 1/2" from the wood (leaving a 1/2" gap between the wood and the tile), and then use a T molding like pictured below? Any suggestions are greatly appreciated. As my SN suggests, I'm new to the DIY stuff at home, but I'm learning as I go (taken several different home improvement type classes and have many books). I just want to know what the "right way" is, and am open to any and all suggestions.

Edit: Title should say "How would you do the transition for this bathroom." Can't edit the title.. damn..
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Old 11-23-2011, 04:58 PM   #2
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How would you do the transition for this bathroom?


they also make a 1/4" underlay for ceramic tile the name escapes me at the moment....that would save you 1/4" and keep you flush with wood floor...

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Old 11-23-2011, 05:27 PM   #3
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How would you do the transition for this bathroom?


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Originally Posted by NewHomeDIYGuy View Post
I'm going to tile the bathroom, but I'm not sure what should be done for the threshold. For the bathroom, I'm going to lay down 1/2" sheetrock, then tile on top of that.
I hope the word "sheetrock" is a typo.
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Old 11-23-2011, 10:25 PM   #4
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How would you do the transition for this bathroom?


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they also make a 1/4" underlay for ceramic tile the name escapes me at the moment....that would save you 1/4" and keep you flush with wood floor...
Hmm.. would a slight rise like 1/4" necessarily be bad? I'm thinking it might be alright and barely noticeable..?
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Old 11-23-2011, 10:26 PM   #5
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How would you do the transition for this bathroom?


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I hope the word "sheetrock" is a typo.
Yes sorry, I meant to say durock/cement board. On that note.. is there a difference between durock/hardiboard? Or is hardiboard basically a "generic" brand of cement board?
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Old 11-23-2011, 10:43 PM   #6
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How would you do the transition for this bathroom?


Its my understanding that 1/4" hardiboard is actualy stronger than 1/2" durarock.....Iam just saying you can contact james hardie company and speak to a rep to confirm this.......good stuff..goggle hardiboard....
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Old 11-23-2011, 10:47 PM   #7
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How would you do the transition for this bathroom?


I had the same issue at my house. I had a 3/8" elevation difference between my wood and tile. I butted the tile up to the wood floor and went to Lowes and bought a wood to carpet transition which has about a 3/8" lip on it, so it made a nice transition between the two floors. This method will require that you stain the transition yourself so there may be a slight color difference between your wood floor and transition strip.
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Old 11-24-2011, 03:05 AM   #8
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How would you do the transition for this bathroom?


Thanks for the info guys.. I think I'm going to stick with durock, because that's what I'm semi-familiar with (I've tiled some things with durock and had good experiences thus far). I did some googling and it seems they're very comparable products.

I am looking at using a 12"x24" tile for the bathroom.. any problems with that over a standard 12x12? I guess just try and make sure the floor is as level as possible? Can 1/4" durock be used for the floor or should I stick with 1/2"? Thanks again!
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Old 11-24-2011, 06:17 AM   #9
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How would you do the transition for this bathroom?


12x24 tiles require a very flat floor---or the lippage will be unacceptable---I suggest that you look into using leveling clips when installing the tile---Lash by QEP or Tuscan are two examples.

I personally prefer Durrock or Wonderboard over the Hardi Backer----

Backer boards only job is to provide an ideal bonding surface for tile----it adds no real strength to the floor system----So 1/4" thick is just fine for floors----always set the sheets into a bed of fresh thinset--then nail or screw----
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Old 11-25-2011, 11:38 AM   #10
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How would you do the transition for this bathroom?


Just wanted to say thanks guys for all the help. I picked up some 1/4" wonderboard today, and with the thinset, it should be roughly level with the existing hardwood floors. I'll screw down the subfloor to make sure it's solid and check things with a straight edge. It probably would've been a good 1/4" higher, but with the thinner wonderboard I should be good to go. Since the bathroom is tiny (only about 3'x6') and the actual surface area where a person will be standing is only about 3'x3', I'll be very careful when placing the tiles and try to minimize the lippage. I'll post up pictures when I lay down the tile. Hopefully all goes well.
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Old 11-25-2011, 12:40 PM   #11
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How would you do the transition for this bathroom?


Naturally, after doing some more digging to make sure things are done the "right way," I've come across a problem..

The subfloor is 3/4" OSB, but the joist spacing is 24" OC. Granted, the floor feels pretty solid to me, as it's a pretty small room (just under 3' by 6') and the OSB seems to be in good shape, but I know how something "feels" is not something to go by.. So, after some googling and running the numbers through an online deflection calculator (joists are 2x8's with 10' spans and 24" OC spacing), it looks like there's too much deflection for tile. This is what the deflection calculator came back with:

"This translates to a deflection of L / 245.
Since the maximum deflection for tile is L / 360, and for natural stone is L / 720, your floor is rated for Sheet Vinyl or wood."


The next question then is what are my options for having a sturdy subfloor, and if my tile is porcelain, I guess I need a number of 360? How thick of an additional layer of plywood would be sufficient, 3/8"? Also, I can get access to underneath the floor via the basement where it's unfinished, but the only problem is that plumbing lines run underneath the floor (so I can at most add a 2x4). If I was to add perpendicular (to the joist) 2x4's under the section of the subfloor and screw the subfloor into the 2x4's would that provide enough support and not require me to add a layer of plywood on top of the subfloor?

Damn, as with any project, I hit some snags.. Anyone with any suggestions on how to tackle this issue I'm open to any suggestions. Thanks again..

Last edited by NewHomeDIYGuy; 11-25-2011 at 12:48 PM.
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Old 11-25-2011, 01:31 PM   #12
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How would you do the transition for this bathroom?


additional plywood will not decrease the deflection in your floor. The best method would be to add additional 2x? parallel to your existing joists.
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Old 11-25-2011, 01:47 PM   #13
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How would you do the transition for this bathroom?


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additional plywood will not decrease the deflection in your floor. The best method would be to add additional 2x? parallel to your existing joists.
Ok thanks Rehabber. My only issue with reinforcing/bracing the joists between each other is that there is some plumbing that runs in between the joists about 3" below the subfloor which limits me.. Would laying 2x6's "flat" underneath the subfloor (with the longer side of the 2x6 parallel to the subfloor) *perpendicular* between the joists say every 18 or 24" and screwing the subfloor into these braces provide enough support for the subfloor?

Last edited by NewHomeDIYGuy; 11-25-2011 at 01:50 PM.
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Old 11-25-2011, 04:10 PM   #14
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How would you do the transition for this bathroom?


For a quick summary for anyone who happens to just be seeing this thread.. I'm looking to reinforce the subfloor for porcelain tile which is 3/4" OSB, joists are 2x8's with 24" OC spacing w/ 10' spans.

Ok, here are a couple pictures of what I mean. Pictures are underneath the subfloor in the basement of the joists/subfloor. For whatever reason, the previous owner installed some 2x4's between the joists on the bottom of the joists, and the insulation (I'm guessing as sound proofing) was put there by the previous owner as well.

First picture is looking down the joists, and second is perpendicular to the joists. The bathroom is about 31" x 6', and runs lengthwise with the joists. The toilet and vanity will be at opposite ends of the room, and you can see the drain for the toilet in the labeled picture. I'm hoping that if I install some 2x6's underneath the subfloor perpendicular to the joists the subfloor will be reinforced enough. Hopefully this gives a clearer picture. Thanks again.
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Last edited by NewHomeDIYGuy; 11-25-2011 at 04:16 PM.
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Old 11-25-2011, 11:06 PM   #15
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How would you do the transition for this bathroom?


Look at www.schluter.com/Schluter-DITRA-XL.aspx I believe you can use this product over 24 in. joist spacing. Check the website for details. It will also give you the height build-up you need to transition to 3/4 thick hardwood floor smoothly.

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