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FreedomSearcher 01-04-2011 01:07 PM

How to trim gaps in stairway white/woodgrain?
 
1 Attachment(s)
My landlady wants me to trim the gaps between the treads, and the existing skirt boards. The carpenter left some pretty ugly gaps. What is the best option? Moulding or wood colored caulking? If moulding, what would be more appropriate cove type or 1/4 round? I realize it is not the norm to trim that, but ... and how do I treat the bull nose? Thanks for any comments.. I will try to post pics if I am able... Bob

epson 01-04-2011 02:26 PM

Wow those are big gaps.:eek: How the heck did he get away with leaving the gaps?:huh: One option would be to call him back and fix the problem at his expense :yes: or your second option would be to install carpet on the treads to cover the gaps. :mad:


SteelToes 01-04-2011 03:27 PM

gaps
 
That's called a GAP :w00t:! Watch your foot it may get stuck :wheelchair: !

First grab a measuring tape (watch your step) and measure 3/4" of an inch from the skirt on top and on the bottom step mark the lines on the bullnose and snap a chalk line.
Secondly notch the each bullnose and place a new 1x12x3/4 skirt over the old one on the left side.
Tip; to mark for the new skirt place 1x12 over the open side of the stairs (if you have one) and mark the each step on the spot.

FreedomSearcher 01-04-2011 05:22 PM

How to trim gaps in stairway white/woodgrain?
 
The carpenter is long gone, and the house is full of wood floors with very little carpet... so both of those options though appreciated, are not options:laughing: ... I like the idea of replacing the 1X12's but I have one more stairway that is messed up on both sides... I don't have a tool that would cut those notches straight that close to the wall... what about the trim option??

guest 01-04-2011 06:25 PM

Hi! I have a log home and I have to caulk a lot to match the stain. If you get a good match to the stain color you can caulk that easily and it won't show. good luck!

cocobolo 01-04-2011 06:50 PM

OK, here's an idea that just might fly. It's unconventional, but...

Can you pry the 1 x 12 away from the wall slightly until that gap disappears, or at least gets very small. Then you could either fit some additional moulding, or heaven forbid even caulking in that gap.

FreedomSearcher 01-04-2011 08:21 PM

Thanks for the idea... but I have another staircase with the same problem on both sides.. this pic is probably the worst spot on the whole project, but I don't see how I could do that in multiple spots... I think it is going to look substandard pretty much no matter what is done... thanks again...

cocobolo 01-04-2011 08:40 PM

Which leaves you with replacing the treads, or caulking carefully. It can be done.

guest 01-05-2011 10:27 AM

After working on my log home for years, I am a caulking pro. So I will throw in a few caulking tips for free. Have a small container of water and an old wet rag, nothing with fuzz like terry, an old white t-shirt cut up works well (no fuzz) First run your bead of caulk in the gap, then wet your index finger in the water and smooth well, may take a few times, you want the caulk flush with the gap. Then take the wet t-shirt and wipe off the excess on the wood carefully, if you mess up any of the caulk doing that, run a wet finger over it again, and wipe again, mold the caulk around the nosing. When you have it perfect, level with the tread and smooth, with no excess on wood, don't touch it, let it dry completely and be careful about stepping on those places for about a week or so. A good place to find matching caulk is the log home stain sites, they will send you samples for free, sascho, perma-chink etc. good luck!

tpolk 01-05-2011 10:32 AM

are the stairs open from the underside?

FreedomSearcher 01-05-2011 10:36 AM

One stairway is.. but the one in the picture is not...

tpolk 01-05-2011 10:43 AM

you may be able to drive wood shims from the under side to drive over the painted apron, will take two people unless you like alot of running to and fro. You can then caulk top of apron at wall or add trim. My only reservation with shimming is having a wavy apron when you're done. I would try the caulk as mentioned above on the one and see how you like it

guest 01-05-2011 10:44 AM

The reason I say log home caulk is you want a pliable caulk that will expand and contract with the wood. Perma chink's checkmateII is for caulking checks in log homes which get a lot of expansion and contraction and would be a good choice, the log home stain rep's are very knowledgeble at all the stain co's and will help you. most have 800# and send free samples. That way when you go up and down the stairs the caulk won't pull loose and I have had good results with these caulks, most are lifetime warranty and I have some in this log home that has been in for almost 20yrs without pulling loose. Good luck!

guest 01-05-2011 11:07 AM

One last thing for ya and I'm done. We built our log home and have been working on it for 20+ yrs, so trust me, there isn't anything to do with wood I haven't seen. Those stairs aren't bad as cuts go, there is a lot of deviation in wood and if what you have posted in your pics is the worst of it then it is a pretty good job overall. If you try and trim those oak stairs, you will get splits from nailing so close to the edge of the wood and if you try and replace the treads, you run the risk of splitting the stringers and you still probably won't get any better cuts. There is deviation in saws and the wood and what you have already is probably as close as you can get. Buy a good caulk for wood like I said in previous post. Caulk the gaps meticulously and quite frankly, that's as good as it gets.

Floor Doc 01-05-2011 12:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by guest (Post 563300)
One last thing for ya and I'm done. We built our log home and have been working on it for 20+ yrs, so trust me, there isn't anything to do with wood I haven't seen. Those stairs aren't bad as cuts go, there is a lot of deviation in wood and if what you have posted in your pics is the worst of it then it is a pretty good job overall. If you try and trim those oak stairs, you will get splits from nailing so close to the edge of the wood and if you try and replace the treads, you run the risk of splitting the stringers and you still probably won't get any better cuts. There is deviation in saws and the wood and what you have already is probably as close as you can get. Buy a good caulk for wood like I said in previous post. Caulk the gaps meticulously and quite frankly, that's as good as it gets.

Those stairs aren't bad as cuts go, there is a lot of deviation in wood and if what you have posted in your pics is the worst of it then it is a pretty good job overall.

You're kidding , right ?


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