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Old 07-07-2010, 05:13 PM   #16
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How do you install laminate flooring under door casings?


Thanks!

What about Titebond III - Waterproof? It's still water cleanup but resists issues with water once cured.

How long do you recommend letting it dry before walking on it?

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Old 07-07-2010, 09:57 PM   #17
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How do you install laminate flooring under door casings?


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Thanks!

What about Titebond III - Waterproof? It's still water cleanup but resists issues with water once cured.

How long do you recommend letting it dry before walking on it?
Titebond II Premium is supposed to be for indoor/outdoor (which means water resistant... not to be used under water though!)
It cures in 24hrs ... I walked on it in 4hrs to test it.

Don't worry about waterproof glue... because if there is water for an extended period of time on any laminate, it will find a way to get underneath from other places than the glued plank... No matter what you were told about laminates being waterproof, it is simply not true, and some damage will occur!

Last edited by btme; 07-07-2010 at 10:08 PM.
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Old 07-08-2010, 03:31 AM   #18
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How do you install laminate flooring under door casings?


Thanks for your advice, I appreciate it!

I already have some Titebond III. Do you think it will work for me, for this project?

btw, do you run laminate under the stove & dishwasher? Will that hurt anything?

I also have a sliding closet door that has a guide currently screwed into the floor (to keep the doors from swinging). Do you think it would be ok to secure this guide to the laminate?
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Old 07-08-2010, 04:19 AM   #19
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How do you install laminate flooring under door casings?


I already have some Titebond III. Do you think it will work for me, for this project?

It should be OK.
III gives you 10 minutes to work with it, whereas I and II give only 5 minutes. before it starts bonding.

Quote:
"Why should I use Titebond® III instead of Titebond® II or the other Titebond Wood Glues?
While all Titebond® products provide superior performance, Titebond® III is especially useful for outdoor applications in cooler temperatures or when concern for substantial moisture calls for the use of a Type I glue. For interior applications, the longer working time of Titebond® III provides woodworkers the necessary latitude to ensure that substrates are precisely aligned before being bonded. Overall, Titebond® III combines superior strength, Type I water-resistance, long open time and low chalk temperature into one easy-to-use formulation."
btw, do you run laminate under the stove & dishwasher? Will that hurt anything?

Under the stove maybe.
I wouldn't put it under the dishwasher...
I decided not to use laminates in the kitchen and bathrooms... too risky with unnoticed water spillage.

(most Manufacturers recommend using glue to seal all plank joints in high water risk areas such as Kitchen, bathrooms...)

I also have a sliding closet door that has a guide currently screwed into the floor (to keep the doors from swinging). Do you think it would be ok to secure this guide to the laminate?

I wouldn't secure anything to the laminate.... you will not see laminate move, but it does all the time with changes in seasons and humidity/temperature... it floats actually with everything on it.

Last edited by btme; 07-08-2010 at 04:32 AM.
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Old 07-08-2010, 05:51 AM   #20
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How do you install laminate flooring under door casings?


The supplier said not to seal the planks in the kitchen. Weird. He said "you should not glue the seams together unless going through a doorway or against a wall where the length fill piece is less than half a board."

If you don't run it under the dishwasher, how do you get the dishwasher out when need be (since it will be blocking the feet)? Just try to lift the dishwasher while screwing the feet shorter, then pull it out and do the same with the back feet?
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Old 07-08-2010, 10:49 AM   #21
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How do you install laminate flooring under door casings?


The supplier said not to seal the planks in the kitchen. Weird. He said "you should not glue the seams together unless going through a doorway or against a wall where the length fill piece is less than half a board."

Major big Manufacturers recommend sealing/gluing when used in an area susceptible to have water spills... Go to their Websites and search for installing in Bathroom and Kitchen.
Does your laminate come with an installation manual... usually one is included in every box!
The last person I would take advice from are the "middle men"/Suppliers...


If you don't run it under the dishwasher, how do you get the dishwasher out when need be (since it will be blocking the feet)?

The Feet usually have a SCREW WHEEL to raise and lower the appliance just like a refrigerator or stove.

Just try to lift the dishwasher while screwing the feet shorter, then pull it out and do the same with the back feet?

YES... sometimes it is necessary to wiggle it in and out... sometimes the wiring/hoses can get in the way and get damaged doing so... but that is another story...

Last edited by btme; 07-08-2010 at 10:53 AM.
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Old 07-08-2010, 02:12 PM   #22
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How do you install laminate flooring under door casings?


I'd just put the flooring under the dish washer. If that flooring gets messed up for some reason, no big deal, you won't see it, and won't be that hard to replace if needed. Don't glue it though.
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Old 07-08-2010, 03:35 PM   #23
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How do you install laminate flooring under door casings?


You wouldn't glue the seams? why?
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Old 07-08-2010, 04:03 PM   #24
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How do you install laminate flooring under door casings?


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I'd just put the flooring under the dish washer. If that flooring gets messed up for some reason, no big deal, you won't see it, and won't be that hard to replace if needed. Don't glue it though.
You won't see it for sure when it starts getting wet... but it will let everyone know soon after... when it starts warping and buckling ... and the dishwasher looks lopsided.
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Old 07-08-2010, 04:06 PM   #25
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How do you install laminate flooring under door casings?


If you were to glue the seams and caulk around the edge, wouldn't that help in preventing water damage?
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Old 07-08-2010, 11:00 PM   #26
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How do you install laminate flooring under door casings?


If one glues laminate it is not able to float, expand and contract with changes in temperature and humidity as intended and if it does happen to get damaged makes replacing the damaged pieces very difficult.


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Old 07-08-2010, 11:18 PM   #27
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How do you install laminate flooring under door casings?


If one glues laminate it is not able to float, expand and contract with changes in temperature and humidity as intended.

Where do you get that totally false information?
Laminate and all wood expand and contract glued, unglued, nailed or otherwise.



and if it does happen to get damaged makes replacing the damaged pieces very difficult.

No comments here... since you don't know the elementary (basic) law of chemistry of wood/laminate
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Old 07-09-2010, 01:31 AM   #28
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How do you install laminate flooring under door casings?


I'm referring to sealing seams, not gluing it to the subfloor. Even the right caulking will still allow it to move (for sealing around the edges). Or sealing underneith the baseboard.
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Old 07-09-2010, 03:18 AM   #29
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How do you install laminate flooring under door casings?


not sure if it's the same sort of system, but on the tongue side (or groove really) cut/shave locking "lip"/bump with a box cutter or similar device. Now you still have the tongue and groove, minus the bend/lock in aspect. Undercut the casing with undercutting saw so the plank can slide under it. Put some adhesive/glue on tongue, float in...done. Worked perfect for me, great result, with least pain (I thought)...but again not sure if we're talking apples/apples as far as flooring system.
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Old 07-09-2010, 05:42 AM   #30
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How do you install laminate flooring under door casings?


TxMojo, that's exactly what my original question was asking. I'm guessing that when installing the flooring parallel to the door and only going halfway into the doorway (because of carpet in the next room), that you have to undercut the door a little further in order to slide the piece back away from the previous row, and allowing room to slide the two together (last row in a hallway). And then hopefully that gap is covered by the transition. Does that make sense?

btw, what branch of the military are you in?

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