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Old 04-14-2011, 10:57 PM   #31
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how do you figure floor flex?


Quote:
1) how much tile should I get for a floor that's 42 sq. ft. I know you should get some extra.
On small jobs like that I often figure by the piece too just to double check. Also depends on how it's packaged. Are you gonna cut tiles to make base moldings too? Normally I's say 3-5% extra, but on small areas 10% may be smarter.

Quote:
2) is "Hydroment" good thinset? I'm thinking of getting some of the less expensive stuff for the bath and save the "Reflex" for the kitchen.
Hydroment is the brand name, they make all qualities.

Quote:
3) how thick should the thinset be?
Do you mean the consistency, or which trowel to use? I don't remember you making a selection yet. Consistency, kinda like mashed potatoes, and no lumps.

Quote:
4) is the "backer board" at HD ok? 1/4"?
Sure, it's fine. Sometimes it's dried out cuz they buy in large quantities and it sits there a long time. But it starts out the same. Which one are you leaning towards?

Quote:
5) don't have to seal the joints in the backer,right?
What do you mean by seal? You apply the special tape and a film of thin set.

Quote:
6) how long does regular thinset remain workable? a couple hours in the bucket you mix it in?
Depends on ambient conditions but you can figure 2-3 hours. Be sure to stir with margin trowel every now & then.

Your welcome,

Jaz
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Old 04-15-2011, 12:11 PM   #32
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how do you figure floor flex?


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Originally Posted by JazMan View Post
On small jobs like that I often figure by the piece too just to double check. Also depends on how it's packaged. Are you gonna cut tiles to make base moldings too? Normally I's say 3-5% extra, but on small areas 10% may be smarter.



Hydroment is the brand name, they make all qualities.



Do you mean the consistency, or which trowel to use? I don't remember you making a selection yet. Consistency, kinda like mashed potatoes, and no lumps.



Sure, it's fine. Sometimes it's dried out cuz they buy in large quantities and it sits there a long time. But it starts out the same. Which one are you leaning towards?



What do you mean by seal? You apply the special tape and a film of thin set.



Depends on ambient conditions but you can figure 2-3 hours. Be sure to stir with margin trowel every now & then.

Your welcome,

Jaz

thanks for the answers Jaz, some more questions:

OK,I'll be going over to "Bedrosian's on Mon. to get my stuff.

yeah, the bath is a small job and I'm sure a bag of thinset will do it. just wondering how thick the bed of thinset should be, or should I even worry about that?, just slap it on with the "notched trowel? making sure at least 80% of the tile contacts the thinset?)

I'm buying "bullnose" to go around the edge where the baseboard was.

the kitchen is about 208 sq. ft. you think maybe a couple 50# bags of the good stuff'll do it?

what I meant by "sealing" is the joints between the backer board. I must've misunderstood about that. so those joints have to be covered with the special tape and thinset?

the backer board is screwed down with special screws,right? how far apart should they be?

does the grout have to be sealed?



tnx,
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Old 04-15-2011, 06:40 PM   #33
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how do you figure floor flex?


Jaz,
rather than have you spend all your time answering questions, I went to Lowe's and bought a book for $10. it seems ok,has lots of info.

tnx,
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Old 04-15-2011, 09:44 PM   #34
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rather than have you spend all your time answering questions, I went to Lowe's and bought a book for $10. it seems ok,has lots of info.
OH, OH, depending on the book you might be in trouble now.... We've seen some real goofy, out of date info in some books. Esp. the ones from the publisher whos name start with a "T".

Jaz
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Old 04-16-2011, 09:41 AM   #35
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how do you figure floor flex?


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OH, OH, depending on the book you might be in trouble now.... We've seen some real goofy, out of date info in some books. Esp. the ones from the publisher whos name start with a "T".

Jaz
well, I WAS wondering about a few things I read. like they showed somebody putting tile right on the sub-floor. didn't somebody,somewhere, tell me you ALWAYS put on "backerboard"? (or some kind of underlayment?) and this other book I read at Lowe's showed "backerboard" being layed down on a layer of thinset. not a word about that in MY book. confusing!

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Old 04-16-2011, 10:20 AM   #36
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DAHHHHHHH!

Are books refundable?

Jaz
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Old 04-16-2011, 10:23 AM   #37
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Go get your money back for that book! Hell, you can come here for free. Is that one of those Taunton Press books? Commonly referred to as : Taunting Press.
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Old 04-16-2011, 05:44 PM   #38
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how do you figure floor flex?


didn't I see a sign at Lowe's saying books aren't refundable?but if they ARE,I'll surely return it!
anyhoo...here's something "the book" didn't talk about:
if you're putting "bullnose" around the edge of the floor as your "baseboard", do you still leave a 3/8" gap between the tile and the wall?
(for expansion?) does any grout go in that gap or do you just leave it empty (my vote is for empty but then YOU GUYS are the experts!) then how about the "bullnose"? I suppose you thinset it right to the wallboard? then what about the grout? there's supposed to be grout between the tile and the bullnose,right? if you stick grout in there,your gap gets filled up,right? (so maybe the gap DOES get filled with grout!)
questions,questions,questions...

tnx,
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Old 04-16-2011, 07:27 PM   #39
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how do you figure floor flex?


A minimum gap of 1/4" is required, fllor tile to wall. No filling of that gap with anything unless you want to caulk it. The bullnose baseboard then covers that gap and should be about 1/16" to 1/8" above the tile floor. THAT GAP then gets caulked. Any change-in-plane should be caulked. The spaces between the bullnose can be grouted. The original floor to wall gap remains empty of fill and hidden.
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Old 04-16-2011, 09:57 PM   #40
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how do you figure floor flex?


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A minimum gap of 1/4" is required, fllor tile to wall. No filling of that gap with anything unless you want to caulk it. The bullnose baseboard then covers that gap and should be about 1/16" to 1/8" above the tile floor. THAT GAP then gets caulked. Any change-in-plane should be caulked. The spaces between the bullnose can be grouted. The original floor to wall gap remains empty of fill and hidden.
good info,Bud. I imagine silicone caulk would be ok in the gap then that same caulk could be used between the bullnose and the floor.

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Old 04-16-2011, 10:01 PM   #41
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how do you figure floor flex?


I closed this thread and immediately see you posted. Good timing.

Use whatever caulk you're comfortable with. Me......I don't like pure silicone. Every grout maker makes siliconized acrylic caulk to match their grouts, both sanded and unsanded. That's what I recommend.

As far as procedure, Bud said it perfectly.

Jaz
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Old 04-17-2011, 11:04 AM   #42
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how do you figure floor flex?


I don't use 100% silicone caulk either. Way too messy and ruins a lot of things.
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Old 01-09-2012, 10:30 PM   #43
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how do you figure floor flex?


you still around Jaz? did I ever tell you I bought 3 bags of that "reflex" mortar in anticipation of my kitchen "re-model"?
well,anyway,the time to start all that is fast approaching. we'll start with the laundry room and proceed to the kitchen if my "assistant" and I are still talking!(that bathroom floor we did last year was "stressful")
be prepared for lots of questions.

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Old 01-27-2012, 05:27 PM   #44
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how do you figure floor flex?


so,what's better, "Ditra" or "cement backer board" as far as a "sub-strate" for laying tiles?

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Old 01-27-2012, 06:22 PM   #45
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I'm sure you already know what I think.

Jaz
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