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Old 04-14-2008, 03:57 PM   #1
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Heated tile ... really worth it?


Hey all,

I'm finishing my basement and my wife wants heated tile in the bathroom. I've done a little digging around on-line, about both the perceived affect of walking on heated tile as well as the recurring electrical cost. Some sites have said that the heated tile is really only designed to bring the tile to "room temperature" and to stop it from being cold, but not to necessarily feel warm to the touch. I think my wife actually wants "warm to to the touch" so might not be worth it otherwise. Also, the costs I've seen thus far ranger from $8-$15/month in electricity. That kindof kills it in my mind. Interested in your thoughts, especially those who have done it (and if your wives have been really satisfied or not.)

Thanks!
Adam

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Old 04-14-2008, 05:22 PM   #2
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Heated tile ... really worth it?


I use warmtiles (ezheat) and nu-heat mats, both will be more than room temperature, and you will hate yourself if you dont install them...

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Old 04-14-2008, 05:43 PM   #3
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You don't run those things 24/7!

The systems will bring the floor tile up to about 84 degrees which is warm to the touch.
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Old 04-14-2008, 08:23 PM   #4
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Having heated tiles is something I would never live without! It's just too comfortable and gives such a great feeling every time you walk on the floor!

Expensive? hardly, all of the electronic programmable thermostats do a great job and you'll get what you pay for..

Did you say basement? Geezzz, a little bit of heat is exactly what your basement needs!!!!

done deal (listen to your wife),

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Old 04-15-2008, 08:32 AM   #5
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Heated tile ... really worth it?


Now ... what brands do you all recommend? Is this something available through HD/Lowes? I've also read some posts about the Tile Shop, which I have one near by.
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Old 04-15-2008, 09:05 AM   #6
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Every "system" of electric tile heat works the same. The devil is in the thermostat - it'll cost as much if not more than the heat mat. But it's already got GFCI protection built in, most are 120 or 240 volt capable, hove a remote temperature probe (buried under the tile to detect the TILE temperature, not the room temperature) and can be programmed for multiple weekdays / weekend schedules to keep costs down.

Might want to bury 2 remote sensors, in case one fails the other is there for backup... they're about 8-10 bucks.
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Old 04-15-2008, 11:10 AM   #7
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How do you prevent the heaters from just heating the foundation constantly?
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Old 04-15-2008, 11:37 AM   #8
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Heat rises.
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Old 04-15-2008, 12:40 PM   #9
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Good point! And by that theory when I take a hot pan off of my stove and set it on my hand it won't burn my hand, correct?
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Old 04-15-2008, 05:40 PM   #10
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Not exactly. When you take a hot pan off the stove the stove will also be hot. But eventually ALL of that heat will escape by RISING until it is the same temperature as the ambient air surrounding it. Also note these tile heaters are thin wires that emit a very small quantity of soft warmth along it;s entire surface. Very similar to gutter de-icing cable, onlt on a much smaller scale. These heat wires do not get red hot like a toaster element...

Last edited by LawnGuyLandSparky; 04-15-2008 at 05:42 PM.
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Old 04-15-2008, 07:31 PM   #11
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I know what you were saying, and I"m not disagreeing. What I'm saying is that for there to be a thermostat embedded with the heating elements, won't you need to heat the foundation to 80 degrees (or whatever the thermostat is set to) before the thermostat will turn off the heating element? You're going to need some sort of barrier in between what you're trying to heat and what you don't really care to heat that will reflect heat, in this case away from the foundation and into the tile. All I was suggesting was that there be some way to not waste energy heating the foundation.
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Old 04-15-2008, 07:37 PM   #12
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perpetual98,

You are over-thinking this whole process.

Home Depot sells Suntouch. It's a good system and will do a good job for you.

The system will heat the tile satisfactorily, don't worry about losing heat downward - ain't gonna happen.
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Old 04-16-2008, 07:35 AM   #13
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I see what you're getting at... if you'll feel better, jackhammer the area to be tiled, install 4" foam with reflective backing, re-pour the slab (might as well imbet the heat at this point) and then tile your insulated concrete floor... :grin:

I gutted and redid one bathroom on slab about 12 years ago. Complete tile walls and floor. Luckily, it's just a bathroom off the guest bedroom, and heated tile floors weren't as common then. Had I known, I would have heated that floor. I just did the other 2 main and master baths 2 years ago. They're not on slab, but the heated tiles make all the difference in the world - starting with NOT needing a bath mat, or a mat in front of the toilets, shower or the vanitys.

And if the room is well insulated, I think it is possible to heat it using in-floor heat. It's just that the manufacturers of it don't want to hear any crap if it turns out otherwise...
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Old 04-16-2008, 08:10 AM   #14
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Well 4" of foam is just crazy. 3.5" of foam would be fine.
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Old 04-16-2008, 08:26 AM   #15
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Radiant heat does not "rise" like heated air. It will go to where it's cold. If the slab in your basement is 55*, then the system will seek to heat it. Without an insulator, IMHO, you'll probably loose 15-20% of the heat downward. Those are the facts.

If you were looking to heat the room with it, then the insulator would be strongly recommended, if not required. But since you're just looking to get th efeel of warmth on the floor, it isn't as important.

We've installed Heatizon Low Voltage and Danfoss Line voltage systems and have found both to work equally as well. There are technical differences but conceptually, they do the same job.

Post the brand system you want to use, the watts per square foot it produces, the floor dimensions that you would heat (only) and what you pay per kilowatt hour and I'll tell you the cost per running hour to use it.

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