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NateHanson 11-15-2010 09:25 AM

hardwood refinishing questions
 
Hi, I'm sanding and refinishing an oak floor. It's about 15 years old, well worn, and was installed as prefinished flooring, with small chamfers between the boards. I'd like to sand out the wear and chamfers to get a smooth floor, and then refinish.

I'm renting a drum sander, and plan to sand with 36 through 100 grits.

Before the 100 grit sanding I plan to mix the 80 grit dust with some carpenter glue fill gaps. Is there a better product to use for mixing with the dust?

I thought I'd try edging with my 5" Random Orbit sander. Will a ROS work for edging?

I won't stain the floor, and plan to use water based poly. Probably Minwax since that's what is available at the store. Any other recommended floor finishes that I can get at a good lumber yard, Big Box, or Sherwin Williams store?

I'll sand one day, then finish the next day, trying to get 3 coats on in one day, every 3 hours or so. And I plan to lightly scuff sand between coats to get a smoother finish. Is it worth renting a buffer for this? Or is it doable to just sand by hand? The floor is about 500 sf.

I've got experience with wood finishing, as a furnituremaker, FWIW.

Thanks,
Nate

tacomahardwood. 11-17-2010 12:31 AM

You need to go rent a professional drum sander . And a edger , If you are close to the rental place , rent the drum one day before the edger , Sanding those micro bevels out is going to take 3 times as long as a normal floor , So if it is 400 feet it will take all day to drum it off , you will need two 36 belts per 400 ft with micro bevel or you will be sanding longer ,If it is one of the cam lock drums from Bunce it will need 4 changes of 36 . What ever that amount is , Then the next day get the edger . it needs to be a real one , that prefinish is good stuff it won't come off so easy with a vibe sander , Then after the finish is off and the micro bevel is gone , use the Home depot oak floor filler and trawl it into the whole floor ,It will take 4 hours or more to dry , So hopefully you can plan it so the filler goes on at bedtime . or its like watching paint dry , BORING . The reason .... because then when you sand and edge with the 60 belt you will see that some of the micro bevel is still there, You will see filler in the micro bevel and have to sand MORE . Then go to the 80 then 100 gt , then buff , I think this is going to be harder than you think , I always unde rbid the darn prefinish , It is 3 times the job to get it off ,
tacomahardwoodfloors.com

msv 11-26-2010 11:02 PM

try to google: "flooring supplier" or "flooring supplies" in your area. BB stores have a crappy selection of (often) the wrong stuff. carpenters wood putty won't really work on floors.depending on how tough the existing finish and the wood is , it might be a really difficult and lengthy process to loose the bevel completely. I don't think troweling the entire floor is necessary. To remove the bevel, you need to cut a lot into the floor. I would suggest sanding at an angle with 36 or 40 grit - that will cut more into the floor and make it easier to level it. always do a straight pass with the same grit after you sanded at an angle, to make sure you take out all the diagonal lines the belt WILL leave. you can go 40-60-80 and then finish it with a 120 screen. For the edges, depending on how fast the existing finish will clog the paper, you can go 50-80. Orbital sanders really don't have the power, nor the speed necessary to remove the bevel. Depending on the time-frame for the porject, you might be able to purchase the finish online, in order to get a professional grade one. I'd suggest Bona Kemi as a brand to look into. check out multiple online distributors for price comparison.
Try to approximate the total cost for materials, renting and time invested.
Get a couple (2-3) estimates from flooring contractors(not HD or Lowe's).
Estimates should be no-obligation and free. Compare those quotes with your estimate of DIY. You might have a pleasant surprise...
either way you decide to go, feel free to come back with any questions.
And by the way, about the "removing the bevel" issue.
I recently refinished a Bruce prefinished floor that had a bevel on it. The customer wasn't really bothered by the bevel still being there(I offered both choices: remove or keep the bevel, obviously priced differently, as the amount of work is considerably different). We decided to keep the bevel. He chose 4 coats of high gloss oil-based finish. I'll try to upload a pic (tried but couldn't so far). I really don't think it looks half-bad, and I do this for a living.

jaqlene 07-12-2011 10:21 PM

I am going to complete the construction of my new home next month, And i have decided for having wooden flooring and other elegant wood work done , I am searching the web for some Hardwood Refinishing Services found many examples of good wooden work. However, can I get decent pricing range on web?
http://www.woodsmithhardwood.ca/hard...hing-services/


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