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-   -   Hardwood Floors Help Needed - I'm off by 3/4" (http://www.diychatroom.com/f5/hardwood-floors-help-needed-im-off-3-4-a-23361/)

balmer_hophead 07-08-2008 12:51 PM

Hardwood Floors Help Needed - I'm off by 3/4"
 
I am installing hardwood floors for the first time. I have about three rows left to go and it looks like the boards on one side of the room are about 3/4" closer to the wall than the other side of the room.

Any tips for finishing the job that will make the discrepency look as less conspicuous as possible?

jogr 07-08-2008 01:31 PM

I suppose you don't want to remove it all and adjust the first row by 3/8" so that you are only off by 3/8" on the last row. At this ponit I doubt you can do anything other than finish it as is.

DUDE! 07-08-2008 07:00 PM

not sure if I'm reading it right, 3/4" seems like alot, hopefully a floor person will chime in, I would think you are going to have to do something with the wall moulding to hide this, I think a bigger problem will be ripping the boards to get them to fit in, course I'm no carpenter so this might be simple.

waferman 07-08-2008 08:26 PM

First of all, most of the time you wont have exactly the width of a board left to lay, so you will have to rip a board. Also, your base moulding is off, right? Will it cover that 3/4" gap?

Termite 07-08-2008 10:11 PM

I don't see how this is a big deal. As mentioned, it is rare that a hardwood installation ends up with full pieces on each side of the room. There's almost always some ripping involved on the last piece.

By the time you leave a gap between the walls and the edges of the floor, and you install base and base shoe, I think you'll find that this won't even be noticeable at all.

Bud Cline 07-09-2008 07:58 AM

Quote:

I think you'll find that this won't even be noticeable at all.
Yow RIGHT! That's gonna look like hell.

The thing to have done would have been to begin checking the "distance to the finish wall" verification long before you got to the last three boards. This could have been corrected over a larger area involving many boards and would have been fine. Now you either live with it or take out some flooring and start over.

DUDE! 07-09-2008 08:17 AM

if it was roof shingles you could move them around, not with hardwood, KC nailed it with not too many rooms are exactly square, once the baseboard and molding are up, it will look great.

Termite 07-09-2008 10:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bud Cline (Post 137415)
Yow RIGHT! That's gonna look like hell.

To each his own. :whistling2:

brian_ 07-09-2008 12:56 PM

sounds like your room is out of square. Two options left at this point are 1) take up lots of flooring, probably ruining some of it and redoing most of the job, or 2) use a jig saw to taper the last row or two. If it's prefinished (which I am assuming) make sure you cut on the wall side of the board, you'll probably get some chipout and/or splintering. It won't be exact, make sure you leave at least 1/4" from the wall for expansion, then use shoe mould and/or baseboard to cover it up. You'll notice it, because you did it, but depending upon the location and furniture that may cover the area it is likely no one else will notice unless you tell them.

jogr 07-09-2008 01:15 PM

I've never done a hardwood floor and am trying to learn a little something here in case I ever try one. Some of you have suggested making up the difference over several rows. So how do you do that with T&G flooring? Tapering the last row against the wall I understand, but how in the world do you taper in-field rows of T&G??? Do pro flooring installers actually taper anything except the first and/or last rows?

26yrsinflooring 07-09-2008 08:22 PM

Hey Bud I didnt know you was over on these boards, good to see ya, is that comp at the library still knocked off JBs boards? :)

I agree with Bud it will not look good just rip a sliver if it is to close the groove edge so you cannot tuck it in, just glue it to the top the tongue


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