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Old 11-10-2012, 03:09 PM   #1
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Hardwood Floor Repair Nightmare

Hardwood Floor Repair Job, NEED HELP
I broke the cardinal rule and put ash in a plastic bucket. Thought it was all out. IT wasn't. Burnt a hole in my hardwood, three pieces are affected. Chiseled out some of the burn and marked a cutting point.

My question is this, can I cut the old boards out just anywhere, it do I have to remove the whole board? All DIY videos I've seen show people remove the whole board, (cutting to the joints then removing the board. If I can just cut around the circle, then replace with three pieces of new, custom cut wood it would be a lot easier than removing each individual board, as there are at least 5 involved due to the burn being on a joint, and one of them going under the moulding on the wall.

I hope this question isn't too confusing. Perhaps the picture will help explain better than my frazzled words at this point. (very frustrated, already have to go tool shopping, never done this before, and feel stupid for burning a hole in my floor)

Any and all advice will be helpful. Thanks again.

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Hardwood Floor Repair Nightmare-2012-11-10_15-16-58_987.jpg  


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Old 11-10-2012, 03:24 PM   #2
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Problum with just cutting out a rectangle is it will stick out and look like a patch.
Have to try and do random cut so it looks like the rest of the floor, you want to not have any butt joints any closer then 6" from the closest one to it.
You use an ossilating saw to cut the cross grain and a cirulating saw to cut along the length.
I mark where it's to be cut on the ends and use a 2 X 4 as a guide and line the side of it up along the long seams. I stand on the 2 X 4 holding the saw on the side that's being removed. This makes sure the balde goes straight down.
I make two cuts with the ciruler saw set at 3/4 depth along the lenght about 1/2" apart. Then the ossilating saw can finish up the ends of the cuts.
That center piece needs to come out.
Now with a chisle you can tap what's left of the out piece toward the center where the piece was removed. Pull out any nalis that are showing.
The new piece needs to have the tongue cut off.
Use PL adhesive on the sub floor and set the new piece in place.


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Old 11-10-2012, 08:59 PM   #3
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vw2slow, for the past hour and a half I have been explaining in great detail step by step instructions that I think would help you on this repair, I even made a drawing to help you understand my explaination. I am new to this site and when I tried to attach the drawing it erased everything I had wrote!! What a disaster........haha
Sorry but I dont have the patience right now to start over but I will mention and stress the importance to remove the entire board for best results. If not done correctly hardwood repairs will always be noticable and can effect the apperance of your floors. To hire an experienced installer to come in and repair this small area they would be in and out within the hour. So depending on your skill level and your mention of the need to go tool shoping it maybe the cheaper option and piece of mind knowing it is done correctly. Just a thought, Good luck!
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Old 11-10-2012, 10:35 PM   #4
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In my last house there was a square hole cut for forced air heat that was no longer used. The guy who refinished my floors put a patch in. He did not remove the boards completely, instead he "feathered" in the boards by cutting them out in different lengths. That way the patched area wasn't a rectangle. It blended in very nicely. If you can, take some flooring out of a closet so that your "new" section will match in color and age.

Fixing the re-muddling one room at a time...
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Old 11-11-2012, 08:38 PM   #5
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If you have a chop saw .Skill saw .Table saw , Multi tool . Chisel ,File ,Vacumm , Finish nailer . And at least some carpentry experience Re post , It will me sent to my email and I will explain , The way you have the drawing is wrong , Way out there to the moon , Sorry , Not to burst your bubble , But this is a skilled repair, if you want it to look normal , If you do it as drawn ,It will look like a 10 year old kid did it, So save yourself some heart ache and pay a hardwood pro , Again ... For the most part every response you have in this forum is wrong , I have not only been to hardwood training for this , this is My proffession , Not one response will give you the desired result , In woud advise calling around . This is the response You would get from me " If One of my guys has a day off " I will ley him come over and make a couple bucks , Probly 100$ And you need to have the matching prefinish wood " End of call , What i am telling you is this ,, If you don't know the difference between ,Site finish . Pre finished .or engineered wood , Or have the listed tools , Forget it ,just call around till you get some one to come over ---------- I am not trying to be a jerk , The reality is ,This is a skilled repair . Or an amateur will fracture more boards and make the mess bigger and bigger , then you can call a pro before or after that happens. One guy is sort of close on his advice , But he forgot to tell you to tape the surrounding areas and file any burrs off the bottom of the skill saw ,So you don't scratch more boards , And to use a small chisel to get the remainder of the groove out , And to file a new hand made micro bevel on the floor hole and the new replacement end cuts , The stain them . And he forgot to tell you to cut a SLIGHT bevel on the boards going in . If you do not cut a bevel they will bind and crack more boards , And thats just part of it , This IS NOT EASY for the novice

Last edited by Gary in WA; 11-11-2012 at 09:55 PM. Reason: left a lot of info out--- removed web link belongs below signature line as per forum rules.
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Old 11-11-2012, 09:54 PM   #6
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As this is a DIY site, we recommend helping other members publicly, rather than privately. This way, others reading the thread will learn the proper method to DIY. Usually multiple/varied responses take longer than a day or two as some members are working, etc. Post 3 already said to hire a pro if needed (and tactfully). I have taped the bottom of a saw before also, good point, and you are teaching others; tips/tricks for quality work. Gary
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Old 11-12-2012, 10:39 AM   #7
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This repair can be done without removing the entire board if you have a multi tool such as a fein multimaster. These allow you to cut the board in place without damaging the boards on either side of it. You just take a square and mark a straight line across the board, then make this cut. Then you take a circular saw with the depth set at 3/4" and make a couple cuts down the center of the boards needing removed. If you don't own a multi tool then you will need to remove the entire boards. Cut new pieces to the lengths needed. Rip off the bottom of the groove on each piece and tap it into place using a rubber mallet. You may want to consider presanding, staining and finishing as sanding in place is very difficult to do without damaging the boards around the repaired area. Hope this helps.
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Old 11-12-2012, 09:35 PM   #8
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Is tthis pre finished wood , It appears to be pre finish


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