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Old 05-18-2009, 09:45 PM   #16
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Hardwood floor buckling


You're asking if you can screw it down from the top. My question earlier in the post was can I screw up from below (ie from the basement) into the hardwood to pull it down to the subfloor that way. I'd like to think there's some other option than having to relay the floor. Especially since it was finished on site and I'd be concerned the stain might not match the original. Mine's been down less than a year. Dave.

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Old 05-24-2009, 07:40 AM   #17
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I would try screwing from underneath. nothing longer than 1 1/4" though!

should draw the floor down nice and tight. Could use some finish nails from the top-side also. but I wouldnt use too many. even though the are small they show up!

Good luck
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Old 05-31-2009, 10:06 PM   #18
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Hardwood floor buckling


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I have hardwood floor, t&g, installed over a subfloor attached to the concrete slab. I have buckling around the exterior perimeter in two areas, and in the hall at the wall. I also had buckling in the dinning room about 3 months after installation, at perimeter. The installer came out, ripped up a section of the floor expecting to find water. None was there, then he took a reading and said too much moisture in the slab. I now believe that was not exactly true, but install tile there instead. Now I have the issues in the areas mention above. The floors look great and you can only really tell it when you walk in the areas. I suspected that the subfloor was nail down securely. They use a gun which shot the nails into the subfloor and slab. I can tell it is the subfloor that has become losse and not the hardwood.

Is there a way to repair without ripping up the floor. Can I screw from above and fill the holes and finish the areas?
I have this same problem in two rooms. I'm borrowing a flush cut saw and will cut the areas that are tight. I've already removed the shoe and base board. Hopefully this will work. If not, I'm thinking about using mason screws thru the oak, sub-floor, then thru the concrete. I hope someone else has a better fix!
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Old 06-01-2009, 08:26 PM   #19
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Hardwood floor buckling


I'm no expert, but I am curious. You have a subfloor over a concrete slab. What's the subfloor consist of. Is it 5/8 ply or OSB on 2x4 sleepers?
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Old 06-02-2009, 08:02 PM   #20
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They put down 1/2" plywood for a nailer. I just finished cutting through the 3/4" hardwood and 1/2" ply. Hopefully my floors will settle in a few days. If not, I will have to screw them down through the slab.
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Old 06-02-2009, 09:37 PM   #21
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I just pulled the shoe molding and the wood is flush again the base. I am willing to bet that the subfloor is also. I am going to try cutting my floor at the perimeter also this weekend. Jason, my installation is just like yours. If my floors don't settle I have already purchased the screws. I will update after cutting the floors to relieve the pressure.
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Old 06-02-2009, 10:05 PM   #22
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Hardwood floor buckling


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Originally Posted by Goldtor64 View Post
I just pulled the shoe molding and the wood is flush again the base. I am willing to bet that the subfloor is also. I am going to try cutting my floor at the perimeter also this weekend. Jason, my installation is just like yours. If my floors don't settle I have already purchased the screws. I will update after cutting the floors to relieve the pressure.
Looks like we're on the same page regarding the flooring/subfloor having been installed without enough clearance from the base of the wall. In my case I have a basement below. For you guys on a slab though, I'm still wondering if you could use a flush cutting saw, get some PL adhesive under the floor and weight it down. I'm sure the Pros are laughing at this, but I'll bet 6 bundles of shingles would flatten it out while the adhesive set. Just a thought. I have a basement below and in my case that, and some screws from underneath is what I'm going to try. Dave
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Old 06-09-2009, 12:59 PM   #23
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Hardwood floor buckling


Well, I have finished cutting the hardwood and plywood subfloor away from the based board. It was wedge so tight that it was causing the baseboard to push away from the way at the top. I now need to put enough wait on it flatten it out, but not sure how to get the adhesive underneath that Dave E recommended. Otherwise, I will use concrete screws from the top.

Any recommendations?
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Old 06-19-2009, 03:21 PM   #24
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Did either of you have success with the repairs. Jason, what type screws did you use?
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Old 06-19-2009, 10:14 PM   #25
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Hardwood floor buckling


I posted these photos before, but maybe someone can benefit again from it.

I had engineered wood plank flooring installed in my new house I am having built here in the Philippines. Moisture is a very very big problem in this country that resembles a steam bath.

The floors in the house are concrete. The only way they would install the wood flooring was to first lay a layer of thin poly foam sheeting ... This is to act as a moisture barrier. I believe having a moisture barrier between the cement slab and any wood above the cement is critical.

Here is what a roll of the moisture barrier they used in my house looks like:




Then they installed 10mm marine grade plywood over the poly sheeting. This photo shows the installer using a heavy drill with a masonary bit to drill through the plywood and into the cement below:




The next photo shows plastic anchors installed into the holes, then what looks like drywall screws are then hammered down. This gives the plywood surface a very tight fit to the concrete below (I think they spaced the screws about every 8 inches or so):




Then the planks are glued on there backside, and then stapled in the wood plank's tongue & groove area (with an air powered staple gun) to the plywood below:






I just can't see where there will be any warping or buckleing of the hardwood planks after this install ... Certainly moisture from the cement slab should not pose a problem (I hope)
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Old 12-18-2009, 12:11 PM   #26
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Hardwood floor buckling


i keep hearing people laying plastic/foam barriers and then PIERCING it with nails/screws/anchors for attaching the plywood subfloor.... doesn't that kinda defeat the purpose of having a sealing layer between the slab and wood?
just curious....

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