Hardwood floor BRUCE E550

french_guy

Hello

I bought a house and the owner has left 1 box of hardwood floor - BRUCE E550 3/8" x 5"
I want to install the same one in the family room that is adjacent to the foyer that has the same hardwood already installed
I want to do install float
I thought it was just "click it" but the spec says to put some glue on the groove and tongue....
Who could tell me exactly how to install that type of hardwood? I do not want to staple it or glue it on the floor.....
Thanks

Awoodfloorguy

Most of this type of flooring can be floated by gluing at the tongue and groove or stapled using a bostich engineered stapler like this http://www.antonline.com/p_LHF2025K-...Fc5cMgodCnUAVw. Hope this helps.

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french_guy

So glue is definitely required for floating installation?

Out of the 2 methods, which one is the "easiest"?
I do not own the stapler, so I would have to rent one + air compressor

zakany

I would staple. Less likely to accidentally mess it up. Wouldn't be floating, then.

You might want to consider buying a small compressor rather than renting. A pancake compressor can be quite useful to have around the house. You could also buy a stapler that converts to a regular stapler/nailer for general use (example).

A little compressor and an 18-gauge brad nailer makes putting up trim easy and quick, so it would be money well-spent.

Honestly, though, I've found nail-down installations to be just as easy as floating laminate or click-together flooring.

To answer your question, thin tongue-and-groove engineered wood is glued together to float it. I'd look at a sound-deadening underlayment so the floor doesn't sound hollow.

Can you see how the existing flooring is installed?

french_guy

No, I cannot see if it was glued or stapled.....
I thought i would be more confident with the glueing process, and on top pf that it would spare the cost of the tools (compressor and stapler)
But maybe I should think harder, invest and go the staple option
What compressor would you recommend? Are those at Harbour Freight any good?

french_guy

OK, I have a 3 gal pancake compressor (Evolv, to tested it yet....bought on BlackFriday sale)
Now, I am ready for staple or floating installation
But I am reading and reading again the installation guide from BRUCE, and it's not clear to me on how to start the 1st and 2nd row !!!! Where should be the shalk line from the starting wall? As close as possible of the opposite wall?
Who could explain in detail, step by step or refer to a how to video link maybe?

joecaption

That type floor can be installed with just glue on the joints, it's done all the time over a slab floor.
Need a video, then check on You Tube.
The flooring needs room to expand and contract, when the seams are glued the whole floor expands and contracts as a unit.
http://www.armstrong.com/flooring/ha...ion-guides.asp

french_guy

Yes, for the floating method, I know it has to be glued between groove and tongue.
It's the starting of the 2 first rows that is not so clear (to me at least...)

I will have to verify what my subfloor is.......I know the basement doesn't
extend under that room, but not sure if it's concrete or plywood

joecaption

Read what it's suggest to leave for a gap on the edges of the flooring for expantion, measure the width of the flooring, add the needed gap and there's your measurement to snap the line.
Your going to need to under cut all casing and door jambs before laying the floor so your not dealing with saw dust on the floor while laying it.

zakany

I have one of those crappy little pancake compressors, too. Works just fine, though, with my floor nailer (L-cleats through 3/4 hickory). Pretty useful thing to have, since you can use a brad nailer or finish nailer (helps with tirm installation), fill your car tires, blow out a dusty computer, etc.

french_guy

To be honest, I mainly bought it for the dusty computer(s)......
$52 shipped, with the brad nailer, not too bad anyway