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Old 04-11-2009, 04:24 PM   #16
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Hardwood/Engineered: Where to start?


Wow.

Well not a problem.
If you like to help then so be it.
I get nit picked all the time. It's a part of the process.
I also commend people who are very professional.

I am a Moderator on this site and I request that any further issues with me be directed to Nathan (owner of the site) or private message me.
Thank you.

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Old 04-11-2009, 04:53 PM   #17
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Hardwood/Engineered: Where to start?


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Originally Posted by Floorwizard View Post
The word your looking for David is UNDERLAYMENT.
Subfloor is what is installed over floor joists. You do need that for wood.
I know you know this....just wanted to point out the word for the wood that is over the subfloor.
this is nit-picking everything you said? he simply corrected your terminology.
something ALL forums could use more of! i thought his response was polite and non-insulting. perhaps you took it the wrong way?
when people use the wrong terms for things, it always leaves me wondering "what the h3ll do they mean??" i APPRECIATE when i'm told the correct thing to call something, then the next time i'm talking to someone about one, i don't come off looking like an idiot!
and abbreviations too folks, at least ONCE in the thread, please tell us DIYers what the heck you're talking about!
BHT boxes??? NYS vinyl bearings??? QPL corner shanks??? (ok, i made those up, but you get the idea.....)

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Old 04-11-2009, 04:58 PM   #18
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"The word your looking for David is UNDERLAYMENT."
and not to nit-pick, but it's you're, (you are) not 'your' (your word, your underlayment) and motorcycle, not mortorcycle... -=chuckle=-
but i don't want to be picky...... *GBEG*

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Old 04-11-2009, 05:32 PM   #19
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Hardwood/Engineered: Where to start?


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Originally Posted by DangerMouse View Post
"The word your looking for David is UNDERLAYMENT."
and not to nit-pick, but it's you're, (you are) not 'your' (your word, your underlayment) and motorcycle, not mortorcycle... -=chuckle=-
but i don't want to be picky...... *GBEG*

DM
Wow...your right...been there for months and months...never noticed....
I was just so pissed about season being over...but now it's back...so i will change it...

wheeehaw!
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Old 04-11-2009, 05:46 PM   #20
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Hardwood/Engineered: Where to start?


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Wow...your right...been there for months and months...never noticed....
I was just so pissed about season being over...but now it's back...so i will change it...

wheeehaw!
nononono, that should be YOU'RE right!!!! lol
and i mentioned the mortorcycle in another thread.... guess you missed it there.

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Old 04-11-2009, 08:13 PM   #21
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nononono, that should be YOU'RE right!!!! lol
That IS funny.....jeesh...sometimes I am a complete idiot....
SOMETIMES....LOL
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Old 04-12-2009, 07:42 AM   #22
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Hardwood/Engineered: Where to start?


Quote:
Right now I'm leaning towards a walnut engineered click lock
Can it be done? Many locking floors cannot be mechanically fastened successfully. Check the installation specs. In reference to direction or where to start. If you go paralell the hallway start off the stair/plate. Starting anywhere else will cause an alignment/wrapping problem no matter how good you think your math is.
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Old 04-13-2009, 08:10 AM   #23
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Hardwood/Engineered: Where to start?


Wow - I didn't mean to start a fight.

HardwoodGuy: With respect to the sunlight thing, one of the installer instructions I read (may have been for laminate) suggested you put the planks perpendicular to sunlight, saying that they tend to expand in length more than width (but I might have that backwards!). That's why I mentioned it.

Also, the product in question is "Trillium" brand engineered hardwood. It's Uniclic, but the install instructions say you can float, nail, or glue down. The install instructions are here: http://www.trilliumhardwood.com/file...ructions_2.pdf

Starting at the stairs makes a lot of sense - but I'm worried that the wall won't be parrallel to the stair nose and that it will be really noticable when you come up the stairs. Maybe that sort of thing isn't really noticable? I assumed I would just cut the last piece when I got to the stair nose. No good?

I'm also concerned with uniclic, because if I start in the middle of the room (which I would have to do if I use the stair nose or hallway wall as a start), then I don't think I can do the nail down for the planks I'm installing "in reverse", know what I mean?

I like the uniclic thing, in concept, since it's extra mechanical fastening and should help keep things together -- but this would be much easier with T&G, I think.

By the way, I'm avoiding the glue approach since I figure it will be a real hassel if I ever want to replace the floors again.

-Steve
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Old 04-13-2009, 06:08 PM   #24
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Hardwood/Engineered: Where to start?


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Starting at the stairs makes a lot of sense - but I'm worried that the wall won't be parrallel to the stair nose and that it will be really noticable when you come up the stairs. Maybe that sort of thing isn't really noticable? I assumed I would just cut the last piece when I got to the stair nose. No good?
I'm having a hard time following this part. If you're referring to the wall paralell the stairs not many will notice if it's off. When you climb stairs you're often looking at that last step then once on the landing, eyes look up, not down to navigate further...if that makes sense.

I don't get this finish nailer approach on that PDF file. I can just see some nails loosing their grab if there's the slightest bit of deflection (subfloor not flat) over time...squeak, squeak...If you're using their 3/4" product there's less than 1/4" of wood that nail is going into. Or at least that's what this illustration looks like.


I don't confess to the expert in this business but one thing looks clear, that company is likely to have installation issues with that recommendation. First company I've ever seen that say don't use traditional tools.
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Old 04-13-2009, 07:45 PM   #25
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Hardwood/Engineered: Where to start?


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I'm having a hard time following this part. If you're referring to the wall paralell the stairs not many will notice if it's off. When you climb stairs you're often looking at that last step then once on the landing, eyes look up, not down to navigate further...if that makes sense.
It does. You got me exactly. Good advice. I'll stop worrying about it.

Quote:
First company I've ever seen that say don't use traditional tools.
I was thinking about that too after your last post - I didn't know this was an uncommon install method. Thinking about it, I can't see how the finish nails could be worth anything. They also specify that you should still use the foam underlay - I'd think you'd be guaranteed flex with that approach, leading to problems.

I think this all adds up to:

1) Don't use the weird uniclic flooring with a nail down install. Go T&G engineered or solid.
2) Start at the stair nose.

Shame, the uniclic stuff was a very nice price and looks great. Long term, I'm now skeptical.
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Old 04-16-2009, 03:13 PM   #26
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Hardwood/Engineered: Where to start?


This is an interesting layout Steve.

I'd proceed as follows:

1. Run the hallaway "north to south" , or parallel to the long walls.
2. Run each bedroom "east to west".
3. For a clean installation, run the ends of your hallway flooring into the grooves of the first course in each bedroom

A layout like this will flow well and prevent a bowling alley look running from one bedroom, through a hallway, and into another bedroom.

Hope this helps!

Wood Floor Guy
www.woodfloorsforyou.com

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