hardwood in basement

TorontoJohn

I am doing the basement of my cottage. I built the subfloor out of 2x4's nailed with power shot nails and 3/4 inch plywood topping it off(did subfloor for insulation).

In one corner, there is underpinning. So basically there was extra concrete on the floor. This was a problem as it was below the plywood of the subfloor so I couldn't just tap con some plywood on it. So anyway I found a way to make it work mcgiver styles. However, now I noticed that there is about a 3/16th of an ince slop in that one small area of corner.

What problems am I going to face when laying a floor? And what flooring will this illiminate from my selection? I am not going to tile, and I can't use hardwood in the basement but can I use laminate? Will it matter that this one area of the floor is slightly off level? Can I just compensate for this by placing a little bit more felt under the floor when I lay it?

One more question about the subfloor. I never, and I repear NEVER want to have to do this floor again. It was a pain! So I want to make sure the 2x4's are snug int he concrete(i know weird time to worry now since the playwood is on).

What I want to know is if it's ok to put tap cons through the plywood, through the 2x4's an dinto the concrete? and will this help to prevent any possible shifting of the floor?

ty john

Zero Punch

If the basement is otherwise "dry", no free water and your only concern is the normal humidity of basements I would go with a premium laminate. If I was familar with the basement humidity and knew it wasn't damp I would also consider engineered hardwood "floating floor" and follow all manufactures specs. Again if I was familar I would also consider parquet. The use of a dehumidifier during high humidity times of year can help maintain a stable environment, whole house AC will also.

I'd go ahead with the tapcons, I would have used a quality construction adheasive under the sleepers to start with as I've seen too many blow outs on old concrete with just powershots Ya think there holding but they fractured the concrete and loosen later but good CA will hold.

TorontoJohn

The basement is "dry" other then the plumbing system which sometimes sweats(going to put foam covering over). I am worried about water pipe explosions but i don't know how much of an effect this would have because it wouldn't be prolonged exposure to water.

I know what your saying about the floor and the power shots. I didn't start to worry until all of the plywood was laid. So what would I have to do? Drill a hole through the plywood and the sleepers, then drill a hole into the conrcret and drive the screw in?

As for the slight slope in the corner of the room, will this cause any damage to a finished fooring?

Zero Punch

Yes, on the drilling I would countersink and use a washer as well to spread out any stress if movement occures, it could pull through the T&G 3/4. You can always fill over with Ardex which is what you should use to level your corner up.
If you go with laminate the foam underlay with vapor barrier attached is what I would use. Just don't go with a cheap laminate you get what you pay for and some of the cheap ones are more swell prone.

Floorwizard

A hardwood can go down too. They do make floating engineered hardwood, if that's your bag.

TorontoJohn

Ardex? is that self leveling concrete stuf? if so can I use it only in the area needed? I don't want to do the entire 800 sq foot room for one low spot!

I have a vapor barier below the plywood. There is the sleepers, ridgid insultation, vapor barier, tape then plywood. I was planning on using either the fiber board or foam underlayment.

Zero Punch

Ardex Feather Finish, is what you want only use it where needed.

If you already have a vapor barrier directly under the 3/4 T&G I'd be reluctant to sandwich it with another for fear of trapping moisture. On the other hand, if dry now the only way that would happen is with a catastrophy, burst pipe or some other free water infusion, which would most likely be a homeowners insurance claim, so for product warrenty I would go with another vapor barrrier per manufacture specs.

Interesting note on a kitchen remod there was a improperly tightened connection on a dishwasher that resulted in flooding within a week of the Pergo install. Needless to say it wound up a replacement, but it took about 9mos. to resolve the matter before replacement. At that time though the Pergo had dried out when demoing it there was still free water trapped between the pergo foam underlayment and the previous sheet vinyl flooring. I though a pipe was still leaking. After allowing it to dry and having the plumber back again to reinspect his work we concluded it was from the original flood.
What I'm saying is it's your call, your floor. Go with the manufactures specs or if you feel your VB is adequate go with it.

Another point, is the fiber board OKed for below grade use? We mostly used it in condos over liteweight or gypcrete floors. I'd check the specs.

Another point, I sealed my cut boards with pergo glue in potentially wet areas if your using a click together use wax on your cut ends an old candle will work.
I think that about covers it.

Good Luck,
John

TorontoJohn

Ardex feather finish. I found the ardex website, would that product be under floor levelers?

So I just mix up a small batch, pour it down, let it settle, then work it in so it's level with the rest of the floor?