Hard wood floor install help

helpless handyman

I have a dip on the subfloor in an area where I am going to install hardwood nail down floor. What can I use to fill in that dip? (2ft by 3ft hallway)Have no acess to the beams, 80yr old house. Thanks. I have seen the self leveling compound, but they are cement based products, and I know the nails will not go thru that. Thanks so much, all suggestions welcomed.

AtlanticWBConst.

Use roof shingles (like shims) to build it up - this is standard practice in situations like yours.

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helpless handyman

Thanks Atlantic West, you are always there for the rescue

helpless handyman

Hey Atlantic West, are you around? All suggestions welcomed as well. I have a friend that is going to lend me a power nailer, the ones used for flooring to make things go a little faster. The one that hooks up to the compressor. It states it uses staples and nails, what size and which type are the best for 3/4 hardwood ? Thanks

send_it_all

Yeah,,,this dude knows his shhh....stuff

What have I done

As altlanticWest said, use the shingles as shims for your low spots. I like to use staples for flooring, it seems to pull it together better. have fun

helpless handyman

Thanks to all, I will definately use the staples. Also where the gun won't reach because of the wall, what type of nailer should I use ? Would an 18 guage brad nailer with 2 inc brads do, or should I use my 16 guage finish nailer? They will be certain areas that I will be able to get the nail in the groove, but the last row will definately need face nailing. Thanks guys...

RippySkippy

I just completed 1100 square feet of 2-1/4 white oak, and used the 2-1/2" staples...seemed to draw the floor up well, just poked through the sub floor.

We used a finish hailer like you suggested for the area near the wall...I really like the bostitch finish nailer that has the molded plastic foot with a little ridge in the center, it helps keep the nail centered when driving in close quarters. One row was close enough that we used the 18 gauge brads (a boat load of brads were used) then when we HAD to face nail, we returned to the finish nailer.

I'd make you a heck of deal on about a third of a box of staples...left overs.

bigboyjoel

Hello, I have the same problem but in my kitchen...are you guys talking regular asphalt roofing shingles or wood roofing shingles that are sometimes used as a shim in low spots in roofs?
Thanks

helpless handyman

I have been very busy renovating my first home, but I wanted to take time to Thanks all you guys that have answered my post. Alantic West, a special thanks to you! Here is a photo of one of the rooms, I finished the entire upper floor and starting to work on the first floor. Thanks guys!

shotdown

Just curious, how much gap did you leave on all sides for seasonal expansion?

AtlanticWBConst.

FWIW - Whether he did or he didn't, (In case you are asking for general information purposes).....there should be a 1/4" to 3/8" expansion gap.
BTW -'If' H.H. attached his sheetrock onto the wall and left a space under it (1/2"+ off the subfloor), then it may ''visually'' appear that there is no flooring gap, if viewing from a certain angle...

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helpless handyman

Sorry guys, been busy, sheetrock is off the subfloor 3/4 inc. I tell you one thing, this Atlantic West knows his stuff!

shotdown

Yeah, I'm going to be installing QuarterSawn unfinished White Oak "3/4"X 3" beginning Friday. Some say 3/4" on long edges and 1/2" on ends but I think that's abit much given the dimensional stability of the Qtr & Rift cut.