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Old 01-29-2013, 02:44 PM   #16
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Ironically, no shoe molding there (or in my photo either)
I noticed that too.

Some interesting pictures for sure. Anything about making a transition mid wall? I have a few of those.

I've seen that done on a door way but unfortunately that isn't how either entrance to the kitchen is laid out. No real way to add casing.

Here is a shot of that side of the kitchen (These was taken before I bought the house and started to paint).


From that angle it looks like adding casing wouldn't be an issue, but here it is from another angle


As you can see the wall just meets at a corner so I can't put casing on that side. I think it would look kind of odd. Also the baseboard at the bottom of the wall would be different as that continues directly into the other room

It's sort of similar on the other side of the kitchen in that there is no casing location and the baseboard just goes out into the hall.

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Old 01-29-2013, 03:12 PM   #17
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Re; Lack of shoe in the pics we posted.

Not the same situation. In our pics the work was done in the correct order, floor installed then new base installed. In one case there is carpet on one side, in the other two cases the base is high-end and thick, which covers the required expansion space. Many people do not like to shoe, or don't wanna bother adding it cuz they installed regular base. But the shoe also helps if the floor is not perfectly flat.

That first pic looks like a perfect place to do a new decorative jamb and casing like in my pic. (pic #3). I don't get what you mean about your pic #2.

Changing at mid wall is done with miters, there must be a pic in some carpentry forum. It's done all the time when going from a living room to foyer where the foyer was installed with mud and so it's an inch or so higher.

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Old 01-29-2013, 03:39 PM   #18
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In our pics the work was done in the correct order, floor installed then new base installed.
I was partly joking - note in my first pic there is actually shoe halfway in - see the corner.


In one case there is carpet on one side, in the other two cases the base is high-end and thick, which covers the required expansion space. Many people do not like to shoe, or don't wanna bother adding it cuz they installed regular base. But the shoe also helps if the floor is not perfectly flat.

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I don't get what you mean about your pic #2.
Basically you can do it just like shown in the photo - turning the corner is irrelevant. You don't cut the big base flat off, you trim off the side of it as shown.
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Old 01-29-2013, 03:49 PM   #19
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Jeff,

I didn't mean your pic #2, I was talking about the OP's #2. What's his name anyway? (info2x from the great state of Michigan!). Why don't people give a name? They'd rather be called R2D2?

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Old 01-29-2013, 04:05 PM   #20
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Info2x is a name I've been using ever since I got onto the internet, just a habit I suppose.

Anyways... What I'm referring to in my second picture is the opening just ends into another wall, not going to do any casing on that side. I'll have to look for some pictures where the baseboard changes design mid wall which is what would happen where the floor changes from tile to carpet in picture 2 and on the opposite side of the fridge where it goes from tile to hardwood.

I understand the corner method and that gets me out of the casing scenario, just need to figure out the mid wall transition.
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Old 01-29-2013, 08:59 PM   #21
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I've search high and low and can't find a pic of how it's done, but it's simple. Have you searched?

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Old 01-29-2013, 09:01 PM   #22
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I was but I fell asleep on the couch instead. Doh.
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Old 01-29-2013, 09:32 PM   #23
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Sleepin' on the job huh? Kinda like this.

Jaz
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Old 01-29-2013, 09:48 PM   #24
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Indeed I am. Ok, I see how that works for a piece of trim that is similar except in height (possibly depth as well, if you're patient). Not two different styles though it would seem.

I can't say I've ever seen it done in person.
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Old 01-29-2013, 09:54 PM   #25
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If it's different then place a rossete between the two. But the base should be the same within the same house or room at least.

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Old 01-29-2013, 10:17 PM   #26
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Oh certainly keep it the same in at least a given room, that's be in the issue with this project because the majority of the first floor is fairly open. I've seen different baseboards in different rooms but typically they aren't drastic or the room itself is very different and it doesn't really show.

I'll mull on this probably until Friday night when I can actually do something and not have to worry about being up too late.
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Old 01-29-2013, 10:18 PM   #27
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Is not difficult to transition the base to different hight, this photo assumes a higher then 1" difference, but the concept is the same. You run to the edge and add a 45 degree cut going up. and is the little 1" piece that will get you, you need to cut the opposite end first, then measure back 1" ... of course it may be 11/16 or a different size, then you cut the piece off of the end of the stick of wood.

Now the tiny little piece will pop up and hit the saw blade, get damaged, get tossed into the neighbours yard, or may be fine. Then you go to install and find it is 1/8" to tall, so you go back to the saw and repeat.
I call these Million dollar corners, because takes extra time to get correct. And once is correct size, you may need to do some filing and sanding to get correct fit.

But, I never really saw the dimensions of your new grout line,
Remove the baseboard and grout to wall, set new baseboard on top of grout.
Now how much grout is showing?
Is it acceptable to you?
In the worst case scenario, The grout will crack because of movement between walls and floor.
If it does crack,then all the shoe moulding will do is hide the crack, will it really be noticeable when it does crack 5 years down the road?

Just saying, grout it, run the base board on top of grout, if you still feel is a issue, hide it with shoe moulding.
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Old 01-29-2013, 10:19 PM   #28
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Old 01-29-2013, 11:08 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by funfool View Post
Is not difficult to transition the base to different hight, this photo assumes a higher then 1" difference, but the concept is the same. You run to the edge and add a 45 degree cut going up. and is the little 1" piece that will get you, you need to cut the opposite end first, then measure back 1" ... of course it may be 11/16 or a different size, then you cut the piece off of the end of the stick of wood.

Now the tiny little piece will pop up and hit the saw blade, get damaged, get tossed into the neighbours yard, or may be fine. Then you go to install and find it is 1/8" to tall, so you go back to the saw and repeat.
I call these Million dollar corners, because takes extra time to get correct. And once is correct size, you may need to do some filing and sanding to get correct fit.

But, I never really saw the dimensions of your new grout line,
Remove the baseboard and grout to wall, set new baseboard on top of grout.
Now how much grout is showing?
Is it acceptable to you?
In the worst case scenario, The grout will crack because of movement between walls and floor.
If it does crack,then all the shoe moulding will do is hide the crack, will it really be noticeable when it does crack 5 years down the road?

Just saying, grout it, run the base board on top of grout, if you still feel is a issue, hide it with shoe moulding.
Most of the height comments have been in relation to keeping the top of the baseboard at the same height as the floor height transitions from one surface to another.

The new grout line would be 1/4" to 1/2" wide. About 1/4" would be visible at the worst point. While not ideal I'm not about to rip the floor up. If shoe molding was to be used the grout wouldn't be seen but that brings us back to an aesthetics issue where no one wins
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Old 01-29-2013, 11:46 PM   #30
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ahh, use old base board or replace as needed, run it through the table saw and cut the bottom off to make it correct hight.
That idea may or may not work for you. Depends on where you will actually end up cutting it and what profile is left.
Average person will never notice, but you will.
And since it was previously buried in the grout, will not look much different with the bottom cut off, and the tops will line up. Will just be more correct with it a shorter base board.

Some times it is tough to polish a turd, just have to do the best you can.
Or rip it all out to subfloor and build new floor to correct hight.

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