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Old 12-03-2014, 09:49 AM   #1
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Grinding and patching basement floor before tile


Going to be putting down ceramic tile on our basement floor. Some spots have some issues. For the most part the floor is flat and level but in a few areas there are some high spots. It almost looks like there was a pipe or something that came through the floor at one time that has been cut off. Around the pipe there is a high spot from when they finished the concrete up to the pipe. What would work best to grind these areas down flat before tiling?

Also there are a couple spots that need some patching. Looks like there was a wall in some places at some time and they used some anchors that left some "divots" about 3-4" in diameter and maybe 1/2" to 1" deep. A little creator if you will. What is best to use to patch these? Do I need the liquid bonding agent or just some floor patch? Any tips on filing these areas?

Lastly, there are a few spots that I would like to use some self leveler on. They aren't bad and most of the floor is flat but a few spots I would like to make better. Do I need to use a bonding liquid before using self leveler? Any other tips on using self leveler for the first time?

Thanks for the advice.

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Old 12-03-2014, 01:31 PM   #2
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Grinding and patching basement floor before tile


do you have angle grinder? if not, harb or freight cheapy and a 5" turbo wheel. carve it down. tight gloves and good eye protection mandatory.

really depends on how much higher the high spots are, if its real high then maybe a small electric chipper to knock it down below the rest of the floor.

leveler? use Ardex or the like, clean concrete with just sponge & water, let dry, add leveler.

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Old 12-03-2014, 03:08 PM   #3
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Grinding and patching basement floor before tile


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Originally Posted by ponch37300 View Post
Going to be putting down ceramic tile on our basement floor. Some spots have some issues. For the most part the floor is flat and level but in a few areas there are some high spots. It almost looks like there was a pipe or something that came through the floor at one time that has been cut off. Around the pipe there is a high spot from when they finished the concrete up to the pipe. What would work best to grind these areas down flat before tiling?

Also there are a couple spots that need some patching. Looks like there was a wall in some places at some time and they used some anchors that left some "divots" about 3-4" in diameter and maybe 1/2" to 1" deep. A little creator if you will. What is best to use to patch these? Do I need the liquid bonding agent or just some floor patch? Any tips on filing these areas?

Lastly, there are a few spots that I would like to use some self leveler on. They aren't bad and most of the floor is flat but a few spots I would like to make better. Do I need to use a bonding liquid before using self leveler? Any other tips on using self leveler for the first time?

Thanks for the advice.
To my knowledge ALL self-levelers require a primer but self-levelers are not usually used for spot repairs, don't think I would try that.

The holes and divots can be filled with thinset when the tile is installed, they don't require any special attention before hand.

Are these "high spots" due to ditch-fill or are they part of the original floor placement?
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Old 12-03-2014, 03:21 PM   #4
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To my knowledge ALL self-levelers require a primer but self-levelers are not usually used for spot repairs, don't think I would try that.

The holes and divots can be filled with thinset when the tile is installed, they don't require any special attention before hand.

Are these "high spots" due to ditch-fill or are they part of the original floor placement?
i have used Ardex numerous times w/o using primer or such, this stuff sticks well to bare clean concrete. for best performance as shown by Ardex specifications, a primer of some sort is needed. there is no real lift on a floor tile. so in my use i never really needed primer (but the acrylic liquid at hd or los is only a few $ if you really want to).
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Old 12-03-2014, 04:51 PM   #5
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Concrete-Joe,

What the heck! We all know you're supposed to use a primer under every SLC I've ever seen. So, why are you encouraging the nice people reading this to do it wrong? Do you have any idea how much trouble and $$$$ it will take to redo a floor?

Remind me not to hire y......................ahh...nevermind!!

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Old 12-03-2014, 05:38 PM   #6
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Concrete-Joe,

What the heck! We all know you're supposed to use a primer under every SLC I've ever seen. So, why are you encouraging the nice people reading this to do it wrong? Do you have any idea how much trouble and $$$$ it will take to redo a floor?

Remind me not to hire y......................ahh...nevermind!!

Jaz
i didnt say not to, i said for a few $ you can get that milky acrylic crap from hd or los, did you miss that part?

i've used Ardex about 100 times over the last 15yrs for making all types of floors even again and/or to fill stuff, then it was either vinyl, tile, or wood flooring that went over. i have used it to fill small dips, i have used it for adding ~1/2" to feather across a 10x22ft section, and i have used it to fill control joints in my garage slab and then epoxied over that. never once did i prime the floor, i did however make it very clean and dust free. all that said i have never had an issue with any of those projects, just telling my experience with this specific product.
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Old 12-03-2014, 06:48 PM   #7
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Grinding and patching basement floor before tile


No Joe I didn't miss anything.

The conversation was about SLC's and Bud remarked that all SLC's need a primer. He, of course is correct. You said you don't use a primer although Ardex says to use one. That's what I'm talking about. The clean part is obvious, you always gotta do that. But, maybe you were not referring to SLC's, maybe you were talking about a floor patch? Which do you use?

I know I was a little tough on you, but it's not good to say things like that in a public forum where DIY's are listening. What if everyone stopped using primers under SLC? What would the long term failure rate be? 30, 50, 60%?

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Old 12-03-2014, 11:46 PM   #8
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Grinding and patching basement floor before tile


Maybe I used the wrong terms.

High areas, there are a few areas where it looks like a pipe came through and the pipe was cut off. But there is maybe a 1/2" or so "volcano" around where the pipe was. Like when they finish the concrete around the pipe it didn't turn out that good. The pipe is gone so I need to grind these areas flat. They are maybe 4-5" in diameter and maybe 1/2" tall. I do have a 7" grinder so what is the best diamond wheel for that?

There are also some spots that have "craters" or concrete missing that I need to fill in. I can just do this with thinset while setting tile? If so that is great. If not what would be the best concrete patch to get to fill in these voids? Is there a special concrete patch you use before thinset? Does it need a bonding agent or primer?

For the self leveler, I'm not sure I will need it but wanted to look into it. After I get done grinding and patching I will have to see how things are. But wanted to be prepared in case i need to use any self leveler to fill in any low spots. Always use a bond agent(primer) for self levelers right? Then just mix it up and pour it out? Anything special? Hopefully we won't need to use any but I'm going to pick up a bag or two just in case and just want to be prepared and know how to use them if needed.
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Old 12-04-2014, 10:07 AM   #9
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Grinding and patching basement floor before tile


a masonry blade will be less $$ and can do the job. a diamond turbo blade will be a tad more $ and will be like hot knife in butter.

craters? how much water will fill them, 1oz or 4cups??

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No Joe I didn't miss anything.

The conversation was about SLC's and Bud remarked that all SLC's need a primer. He, of course is correct. You said you don't use a primer although Ardex says to use one. That's what I'm talking about. The clean part is obvious, you always gotta do that. But, maybe you were not referring to SLC's, maybe you were talking about a floor patch? Which do you use?

I know I was a little tough on you, but it's not good to say things like that in a public forum where DIY's are listening. What if everyone stopped using primers under SLC? What would the long term failure rate be? 30, 50, 60%?

Jaz
Ardex 15, Ardex Feather Finish, etc etc. the FF says it can be applied directly to vinyl, gypsum, concrete, and wood substrates. these products are both cement based "SLU" products. so call it the way you want, from my view, not all SLU's need primer.

here, if you cant find it (http://www.ardexfeatherfinish.com/im...eng%201112.pdf)

and i never said "all SLC's" now did i, i called out Ardex because that is what i used in the past.

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Old 12-04-2014, 11:48 AM   #10
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Grinding and patching basement floor before tile


Joe,

Not to beat a dead horse but......... The Ardex 15 is self leveling, the FF is not. The point was that Ardex, (and every other maker of SLC's) wants you to use a primer, (which you even mentioned. However you do not.

I just wanna make sure that SLC/SLU's get the primer as recommended. Many/most regular patching materials may not need it, at least for filling holes, thin applications will vary. So, I'm saying to read the directions and follow them.

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Old 12-04-2014, 11:52 AM   #11
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10-4 JazMan

but to note, you mix it a tad soupy = self leveling, at least for the purpose of making things flat for tile work, etc.
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Old 12-04-2014, 01:16 PM   #12
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Jaz, if Concrete Joe wants to void warranty so be it.
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Old 12-04-2014, 01:17 PM   #13
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10-4 JazMan

but to note, you mix it a tad soupy = self leveling, at least for the purpose of making things flat for tile work, etc.

It's always a chance slc will fail with or with out milk primer.
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Old 12-04-2014, 01:44 PM   #14
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Jaz, if Concrete Joe wants to void warranty so be it.
what warranty? its an OP DIY job. you think if tile fails OP has a warranty claim against the SLC product maker?

so how would that warranty call go, "hello, i used your product as specified on my concrete floor and then i tiled over it, but now my tiles are lifting off because your SLC product didnt stick as described in your product brochure, so now i need to replace the whole floor and want you to pay for it".

fat-chance.
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Old 12-04-2014, 01:48 PM   #15
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There are reasons why they have manufacturing reconditions this forum and Jazz strictly abideds by them just saying I could care less how you do things seems like real world tactics in my book

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