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Old 10-31-2011, 10:16 AM   #31
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Got old floor up - OK experts....what next - pic inside


Sephora,
See Bud's post #4: According to the industry tile installation recommendations 1/4" plywood is never to be used in a tile installation. Plywood that is 3/8" is the minimum.

Proceed as you wish; I never like working to the minimum standard personally.

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Old 10-31-2011, 10:19 AM   #32
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I am going to urge BIL to lay a 1/4 inch good grade ply wood on top of the original subfloor.
Been a long time since you read POST #4 huh? Maybe you and BIL could re-read that one together.

What is the thickness of the remaining subfloor? "Hard to tell", right?

What is the thickness really, using a measuring type kinda thingy?
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Old 10-31-2011, 10:26 AM   #33
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Honestly, we can't tell yet what the thickness of the real subfloor is. They did put a hole through a section with the crobar and by looking at that is seems it is only a 1/2 inch I can now see into my basement.

I was under the impression that whatever was under the tile must be at lease 5/8". So by adding on top of the existing subfloor would give it that minimum. I guess not.

Well we are in a pickle here...don't know what to do now.

I do not trust my original subfloor.
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Old 10-31-2011, 10:33 AM   #34
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I guess if we put anything over the subfloor it will need to be 3/8" of plywood.
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Old 10-31-2011, 10:35 AM   #35
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Honestly, we can't tell yet what the thickness of the real subfloor is.
No floor vents to look into and measure?

Building codes for a long time have used 5/8" for minimum subfloor thickness, that's probably what you have.

DITRA is warranted over 5/8" plywood subfloor.

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Well we are in a pickle here...don't know what to do now.
Why are you in a pickle? What's the problem now? Confirm some measurements and see if you are in fact "in a pickle". I doubt that's the case.

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Old 10-31-2011, 10:45 AM   #36
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Bud we have baseboard heating....

It could be 5/8"...the part that they made a hole in was all splintered so it was hard to tell

That is what BIL wants to do. He wants to get the old wood up. Nail down the original subfloor and replace the hole portion and make sure all is sound.

Then he wants to lay the Ditra, etc. But what is wrong with a gal wanting to make sure the floor is sound by adding to make sure.
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Old 10-31-2011, 11:13 AM   #37
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Quote:
Bud we have baseboard heating....
Bummer! If floor vents existed that would be an easy means of measuring the floor thickness. Okay let's move on. How about at the top of the basement steps? Does the subfloor edge show there? Sometimes it does. The subfloor will be the same throughout the house. Or you could go to the basement and look up to see if the material thickness is stenciled on the bottom of the subfloor. Sometimes it is sometimes it is not.

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It could be 5/8"...the part that they made a hole in was all splintered so it was hard to tell
Splintered gouges are hard to tell anything from. Once the floor is cut out for a patch you can measure it then.

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That is what BIL wants to do. He wants to get the old wood up. Nail down the original subfloor and replace the hole portion and make sure all is sound.
That would be the next move.

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Then he wants to lay the Ditra, etc. But what is wrong with a gal wanting to make sure the floor is sound by adding to make sure.
More is better, I won't be arguing with that principal.

I'll warn you about using a toe-kick saw. If you can rent one. Those things can be very dangerous so proceed with caution. They unexpectedly kick-back, so be prepared. Years ago I finally had to take mine off the trucks and keep them in my possession so the guys wouldn't/couldn't use them. I am the only person that uses those saws now. Just too dangerous but they work really good.
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Old 10-31-2011, 11:31 AM   #38
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Bud...thanks for putting up with my thread. Of course, nothing is ever easy when it comes to DIY. Even for a pro this would have been a doosey!

I hear you on the toe-kick saw. But we have no other option seriously. The circular saw only goes so far.

BIL is going to use the toe-kick saw. He did mention he has never used one but he has used everything else under the sun and just build by hand his new house (federal style colonial - about 3000 sq ft). He is VERY handy.....
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Old 10-31-2011, 11:42 AM   #39
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BIL is going to use the toe-kick saw. He did mention he has never used one
Tell him not to position himself behind the saw. They kick backwards and could climb his leg. I found the best stance for me is to use the saw in front of me and move it right to left so that if it does bind and kick it doesn't kick into me or anything else.
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Old 11-02-2011, 10:15 AM   #40
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Bud, hopefully you respond. BIL and I got up the rest of the old layers. You were right, the subfloor is 5/8". So at least it is the minimum.

Since the plan is not to add height we are going to try to make the subfloor sound by reinforcing it from underneath. We need to re-nail and re-screw to the joists in the kitchen. We are also going to go into the basement and add in more joists perpenducilar the the ones already there (I guess we will do that first and so we can screw into those). We will stagger those for the portion of the kitchen.

The joists are 2x6 so we will get a few and cut them...think they are 16 inches apart and screw into the sides.

Then we are going to lay the Ditra (the thinner one) and then the tile.

Sound like a fair enough plan?
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Old 11-02-2011, 06:27 PM   #41
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A "toe kick saw", well, well, well... I learn something new every day.

When I did my kitchen, I used a Dremel with a very rare and very dangerous looking blade that I don't think you can buy anymore.

Took me a long time, but I did not know such a saw existed.

The underlayment was some sort of old school thick cardboard looking stuff?
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Old 11-02-2011, 06:32 PM   #42
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I did not know such a saw existed.
You are better off!
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Old 11-03-2011, 07:50 AM   #43
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I got the toe-kick saw and BIL used it with no problems. Then my husband called me yest at work to say he used it too :gasp:!!! They are both fine.

Mind you, my husband is not the handiest of them all...but he tries.

I think it kicked back on my BIL once and it was a small kick back.

I did notice that it doesn't go all the way to the cabinet...there is still about 1/4" or so sticking out. I am going to use a sawzall to get in on an angle.
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Old 11-03-2011, 07:50 AM   #44
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Bud, no comment?
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Old 11-03-2011, 10:49 AM   #45
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I did notice that it doesn't go all the way to the cabinet...there is still about 1/4" or so sticking out. I am going to use a sawzall to get in on an angle.
No no no no no leave it alone. Now you are just being anal. Don't get in there with a Sawzall and butcher things up, just leave it, it's not a problem.

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