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kevinok 06-18-2013 11:40 PM

Glue Down Engineered Hardwood Issues
 
What is the acceptable level of repairs needed on a professionally installed floor?

We purchased engineered hardwood floor and are seeing gaps in between the boards and at the butt ends. The gaps are big enough to see the unstained portion of the tongue of the planks.

Also, we've had issues in one room with planks being loose. Meaning, if you press on it with your foot, it moves. This was usually at butt end joints but sometimes along the joint of two boards and both boards flexed under pressure.

We've also got two trim pieces where the plank was noticed too big so there's an area that's pretty noticeable where there is no wood floor.

The installer has corrected the issues we've brought up so far but his resolution is to fill it with putty and stain. In the case of the loose planks, he's drilled a hole with a "5/64 inch drill bit" and injected a glue into the holes.

Are these standard acceptable repairs?
Are these standard acceptable repairs on a new professionally installed floor?

7 VII 7 06-19-2013 08:39 AM

I am assuming this is on a cement slab?

If so, what kind of moisture tests were done and what type of glue was used?

Also what prep work was done to the cement slab and what was down before the engineered hardwood?

kevinok 06-19-2013 09:17 AM

Yes, this a cement slab. House was built in late 60's and previously we had glue down parquet (original to the house) as well as carpet and slate tile. This area has a pretty sandy soil.

The moisture test consisted of a piece of 6 mil plastic taped down and left for 24 hours to see if any water droplets were represent. This is what the floor store we purchased from recommended. All stores around here recommend that.

Floor prep consisted of him sweeping and vac'ing the floor. He did chisel out some parts of the stem wall that was higher around the sliding glass door.

Wood was delivered on a Friday and install started on a Tuesday.

Product is Pinnacle Amberleigh Vigne Hickory with 3 widths and multiple lengths. It's a 7 ply engineered wood. Glue used was Mohawk. Where the floor flexed after install, he injected DriTac into flooring.

kevinok 06-19-2013 09:20 AM

1 Attachment(s)
Here's a pic I snapped of one of the gaps.

kevinok 06-19-2013 09:29 AM

1 Attachment(s)
Pic of one of the gaps.

7 VII 7 06-19-2013 09:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kevinok (Post 1203868)
Yes, this a cement slab. House was built in late 60's and previously we had glue down parquet (original to the house) as well as carpet and slate tile. This area has a pretty sandy soil.

The moisture test consisted of a piece of 6 mil plastic taped down and left for 24 hours to see if any water droplets were represent. This is what the floor store we purchased from recommended. All stores around here recommend that.

Floor prep consisted of him sweeping and vac'ing the floor. He did chisel out some parts of the stem wall that was higher around the sliding glass door.

Wood was delivered on a Friday and install started on a Tuesday.

Product is Pinnacle Amberleigh Vigne Hickory with 3 widths and multiple lengths. It's a 7 ply engineered wood. Glue used was Mohawk. Where the floor flexed after install, he injected DriTac into flooring.

Sounds like a similar issue that I was having. The plastic tape down method is just to see if there IS moisture not how MUCH moisture there is. To check the relative humidity of the slab a in-situ test would need to be done (look up Wagner RH probes). To check the vapor emission of the slab, a calcium chloride test would need to be done over a 72 hour period. That will tell you how much moisture is emitting from the slab. Based off those RH % and Calcium Chloride lbs per 1000sqft, that will tell the installer what type of moisture you are dealing with and the proper glue and procedures.

Think of it this way. If the correct RH and CC test were done and showed 80% RH and 9lbs per 1000sqfeet a Mohawk glue with a max moisture limit of 70% RH and 3lbs per 1000sqfeet will have issues.

kevinok 06-19-2013 10:09 AM

How was your issue resolved. Did you have the installer remove the flooring?

7 VII 7 06-19-2013 11:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kevinok (Post 1203893)
How was your issue resolved. Did you have the installer remove the flooring?

Well, our floors were so bad they were not sticking to the subfloor anymore. This was related to cutback/black mastic still left on the concrete slab. If there is a moisture issue now, it will be there forever.

Sounds like they did not do the correct prep work to determine what glue to use.

What Mohawk glue did they use (model #)?

poppameth 06-19-2013 08:55 PM

Sometimes it can be the glue itself. We've had no end of problems with Shaw adhesive in these situations. The wood always wants to gap open during and after installation. We switched to Mapei ECO 985 and all such issues disappeared. Taylor makes Shaw adhesive and possibly Mohawk's as well. Taylor has a very spotty track record.

kevinok 06-19-2013 09:33 PM

It was a Mohawk Hardwood Urethane Adhesive. Came in a black bucket that was smaller than a standard 5 gal bucket.

lazzlazz 06-25-2013 07:10 PM

I recently read some threads over at the floormasters.com forum & would be very reluctant to install engineered hardwood after reading about all the problems they encounter (usually being asked to fix them). Many such floors installed 5-10 years ago seem to be fading, developing cracks, & having other problems that require refinishing & extensive filling of cracks. But the aluminum oxide makes refinishing these floors far more difficult (go through more sanding belts) & on top of that, the bevel which so many of these floors have complicate refinishing as well. When you spend several thousand on a floor, you expect it to last more than 10 years. Perhaps some of it is a bad install, but not all.


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