Getting Steel Plate Flush with Concrete Floor

MrBill_DIY · 11-26-2009, 01:24 PM

In the floor of my finished basement, right smack in the doorway between two rooms, there is a sewer cleanout pipe in a hole about 5" across. The rest of the floor in both rooms is tiled with ordinary 12" vinyl tiles and has been covered over with carpeting and pad. A few years ago, I had a thin 12" square steel plate made to cover the cleanout, the size of a tile, and the plate is screwed to the concrete. The problem is that the steel plate is a little thicker than the surrounding vinyl tiles, so you can feel the edges of the steel plate when you walk on it. I would like to get the steel plate flush with the tiles so that it isn't noticeable at all, and I need ideas.

One way to go would be to lower the concrete in this small 12" square area about 1/8" so that the plate sits flush. The concrete is very old and tough, however. How should I do this? Just chisel it, because it's a small area? Grind it down with something? I was looking at an ad for an angle grinder in today's paper, wondering whether that would work. I don't what an angle grinder would normally be used for.

I want to fix this situation before I replace the carpeting in both rooms. Whatever I do, I need to have easy access to the sewer cleanout in case of a sewer backup -- which happened about 10 years ago. That's why I put in a steel plate and decided not to just concrete or plaster over the cleanout.

PaliBob · 11-26-2009, 03:02 PM

Mr Bill
Get that 4-1/2" Angle Grinder or another one similar to:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=91223

Also an Angle Guard is handy for straight cuts:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=45921

Scribe a line in the concrete around the steel plate
With the Grinder cut a line in the concrete a little deeper than the steel plate. Clean out the recess with the grinder and a cold chisel. You will end up with a square recess with a lot of areas deeper than the thickness of the plate.

Drill a couple of 1/2" holes in the plate over the 'clean out' to aid in removing the plate for access.

Level out the recess:
Mix some cement patching compound and place in the recess close to the edges. Cover the hole with a sheet of Saran Wrap.

Push down the plate to squeeze out the excess patching compound until the steel plate is level with the concrete.
.

Bud Cline · 11-26-2009, 08:56 PM

WOW! Talk about throwing good money down the drain.

How about you just remove the steel plate and fill the hole with Plaster of Paris? Fill it flush with the tile surface and carpet over it and be done with it. If you ever need to access the cleanout the plaster will be easy enough to chisel out and replace.

Cost about 4 bucks.

MrBill_DIY · 11-27-2009, 01:12 PM

Sewer backups don't happen that often, fortunately, and plaster of Paris would be easy to replace. Would plaster of Paris be strong enough to walk on (under a carpet and pad)? That's my only real concern about that approach. I don't want it falling apart under the carpeting.

Actually, before I put in the steel plate years ago, I filled the hole with concrete patcher, and was able to break it up with a hammer when the sewer backup happened (the material is not nearly as tough as the concrete floor). But I thought it might not be the best way to do things, so I tried the steel plate, because I could just unscrew it.

Bud Cline · 11-28-2009, 11:12 AM

Quote:

Would plaster of Paris be strong enough to walk on (under a carpet and pad)?

Oh I think so for your purposes.

Plaster of Paris meets ASTM C-109 standards and reaches it's primary hardness in ten minutes. It will then cure to 2650 psi in 28 days. Some low-grade concretes used in residential construction aren't any stronger than that.

You could install the carpet within an hour after pouring I would think.

MrBill_DIY · 11-28-2009, 08:30 PM

That's an interesting option. I didn't plaster of Paris was so strong. I assume it wouldn't stick to the concrete?

PaliBob · 11-28-2009, 10:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bud Cline

WOW! Talk about throwing good money down the drain.

Bud, You had a great solution. It shows that we all need to keep an open mind and think out of the box.

When I was presented with this puzzle as part of a class whose purpose was to promote logical and creative thinking, I Flunked, but then none of the other eleven got it. (even though there is more than one solution)

Seeing Bud's Plaster of Paris solution was like when I saw the puzzle solution.
"Geez I should have thought of that"

PaliBob · 11-29-2009, 09:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MrBill_DIY

..... I assume it wouldn't stick to the concrete?

Mr Bill the DIY guy, It wouldn't bond but if you wanted to make the Plaster of Paris super easy to remove then put a layer of Saran Wrap in the cavity before you fill up the hole with Plaster of Paris.
.

11-26-2009, 01:24 PM	#1
MrBill_DIY Member Join Date: May 2008 Posts: 78	Getting Steel Plate Flush with Concrete Floor In the floor of my finished basement, right smack in the doorway between two rooms, there is a sewer cleanout pipe in a hole about 5" across. The rest of the floor in both rooms is tiled with ordinary 12" vinyl tiles and has been covered over with carpeting and pad. A few years ago, I had a thin 12" square steel plate made to cover the cleanout, the size of a tile, and the plate is screwed to the concrete. The problem is that the steel plate is a little thicker than the surrounding vinyl tiles, so you can feel the edges of the steel plate when you walk on it. I would like to get the steel plate flush with the tiles so that it isn't noticeable at all, and I need ideas. One way to go would be to lower the concrete in this small 12" square area about 1/8" so that the plate sits flush. The concrete is very old and tough, however. How should I do this? Just chisel it, because it's a small area? Grind it down with something? I was looking at an ad for an angle grinder in today's paper, wondering whether that would work. I don't what an angle grinder would normally be used for. I want to fix this situation before I replace the carpeting in both rooms. Whatever I do, I need to have easy access to the sewer cleanout in case of a sewer backup -- which happened about 10 years ago. That's why I put in a steel plate and decided not to just concrete or plaster over the cleanout.

11-26-2009, 03:02 PM	#2
PaliBob Tool Geek Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Pacific Palisades CA Posts: 2,447	Getting Steel Plate Flush with Concrete Floor Mr Bill Get that 4-1/2" Angle Grinder or another one similar to: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=91223 Also an Angle Guard is handy for straight cuts: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=45921 Scribe a line in the concrete around the steel plate With the Grinder cut a line in the concrete a little deeper than the steel plate. Clean out the recess with the grinder and a cold chisel. You will end up with a square recess with a lot of areas deeper than the thickness of the plate. Drill a couple of 1/2" holes in the plate over the 'clean out' to aid in removing the plate for access. Level out the recess: Mix some cement patching compound and place in the recess close to the edges. Cover the hole with a sheet of Saran Wrap. Push down the plate to squeeze out the excess patching compound until the steel plate is level with the concrete. . __________________ To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. & Stay Safe .....Bob Lavery

11-26-2009, 08:56 PM	#3
Bud Cline Tileguy Join Date: Mar 2006 Posts: 9,104	Getting Steel Plate Flush with Concrete Floor WOW! Talk about throwing good money down the drain. How about you just remove the steel plate and fill the hole with Plaster of Paris? Fill it flush with the tile surface and carpet over it and be done with it. If you ever need to access the cleanout the plaster will be easy enough to chisel out and replace. Cost about 4 bucks.

11-27-2009, 01:12 PM	#4
MrBill_DIY Member Join Date: May 2008 Posts: 78	Getting Steel Plate Flush with Concrete Floor Sewer backups don't happen that often, fortunately, and plaster of Paris would be easy to replace. Would plaster of Paris be strong enough to walk on (under a carpet and pad)? That's my only real concern about that approach. I don't want it falling apart under the carpeting. Actually, before I put in the steel plate years ago, I filled the hole with concrete patcher, and was able to break it up with a hammer when the sewer backup happened (the material is not nearly as tough as the concrete floor). But I thought it might not be the best way to do things, so I tried the steel plate, because I could just unscrew it.

11-28-2009, 08:30 PM	#6
MrBill_DIY Member Join Date: May 2008 Posts: 78	Getting Steel Plate Flush with Concrete Floor That's an interesting option. I didn't plaster of Paris was so strong. I assume it wouldn't stick to the concrete?

Getting Steel Plate Flush with Concrete Floor