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Old 07-16-2010, 09:00 AM   #1
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Garage flooring install


alright..... finished my garage walls trimmed it out all nice and such, but now the floor looks horrible as a cement slab..... was looking at two products to cover it with.. one was garage floor tile the other epoxy.... any pro's / con's to each of these? if you could pick one which would you take? I can get the same look with either basically... just don't know which road to take right now

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Old 07-20-2010, 09:08 AM   #2
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Hard to get a reply sometimes I guess. I can't suggest any pros/cons to either, but I'm looking into making my garage floor "nice looking" as well. I am looking at this product that comes in a giant roll, you put it in place, cut out the protrusions and you are done. I've seen it on the DIY network in some garage makovers. Looks great.

Something like this.
http://www.bltllc.com/g-floor_main.htm

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Old 07-20-2010, 10:57 AM   #3
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alright..... finished my garage walls trimmed it out all nice and such, but now the floor looks horrible as a cement slab..... was looking at two products to cover it with.. one was garage floor tile the other epoxy.... any pro's / con's to each of these? if you could pick one which would you take? I can get the same look with either basically... just don't know which road to take right now
It really depends on what you want your floor to look like, I personally like Norsk tile, they are made out of the same material as the BLT mats the other guy was talking about, but they are 18" tiles, so it is a lot easier to get your garage covered. Let’s face it, there really is no such thing as a standard garage. JNK Products has a 25% off sale through the end of the week on all there Norsk Tiles. I think it is well worth the look!! There are some other products if Norsk isn't for you.

Pros for the BLT Mats
4 patterns to choose from
6 colors
"easy" installation
Comes in rolls
Can get mildew under mats

Cons
If you ruin the mat in one little place you need to replace the whole mat.
Can bubble
May crinkle up if you turn your tires on it
Can get mildew under mats

Pros for Norsk
Interlocking tile
4 patterns
7 colors
Truly easy to install
18" tiles
Air flow under tiles (no Mildew)
You don't have to replace the whole floor covering, if a tile gets ruined somehow, just pull it up and replace it.

Cons
Need a trim kit
Slightly more difficult to cut.
Can have staining on lighter colors


Pros of Epoxy
Nice smooth finish
Can get tons of flake colors
Can just "reseal every few years"

Cons
Can (and most likely will) have hot tire lift.
Most don't have any real warranty
Clear coat can yellow over time
Very hard to fix
Very Slippery when wet
A lot of time to put it in
Must wait for quite a while when you have freshly poured concrete to make sure it cures 100% before using this product.

Not sure any of this is helpful, but if you have any questions, please ask me :D

Last edited by parash; 07-20-2010 at 11:05 AM. Reason: Left out Epoxy info
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Old 07-20-2010, 11:46 AM   #4
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Wow you seem to know your stuff.

What about the peel and stick tiles? I was wanting to do a checker flag floor, and the Norsk tiles won't have that clean edge. Are any of the peel and stick tiles good?
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Old 07-20-2010, 12:27 PM   #5
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Are any of the peel and stick tiles good?
Not really.
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Old 07-20-2010, 01:07 PM   #6
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Wow you seem to know your stuff.

What about the peel and stick tiles? I was wanting to do a checker flag floor, and the Norsk tiles won't have that clean edge. Are any of the peel and stick tiles good?

BLT makes a peal and stick tile, they come in 2 different patterns and They are made out of the same material as the mats and the Norsk tiles. These are the best that I know of. They come in 12" and 24" tiles The patterns are Diamond, and Levant(smooth with a leather like texture). The Levant comes in White Black and Gray, the Diamond comes the same colors plus Silver. There is also Interlocking tiles, Daytona is one, you can get them in a "tread" pattern and a coin pattern
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Old 07-20-2010, 04:57 PM   #7
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Ceramic tile. I paid .59/sf. Oil cleans up with a paper towel (unlike Racedeck). Comfortable to walk on barefoot. Not slippery, wet or dry. I jack my car on it and have dropped tools. If I do break a tile, it's easy to replace (unlike epoxy). I had an 85-year-old slab that was really uneven -- and no vapor barrier. The tile has worked great for me.

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Old 07-21-2010, 08:54 AM   #8
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Ceramic tile. I paid .59/sf. Oil cleans up with a paper towel (unlike Racedeck). Comfortable to walk on barefoot. Not slippery, wet or dry. I jack my car on it and have dropped tools. If I do break a tile, it's easy to replace (unlike epoxy). I had an 85-year-old slab that was really uneven -- and no vapor barrier. The tile has worked great for me.
Now that is a proper garage. What tile did you go with? Ceramic, Porselin, etc? I wanted to do this too, but didn't know how durable it would be when I put my truck on it, and jack it up if I have to. Only problem I see with using tile is that the install would be a massive project. But I can actually correct a slight pitch problem if I do this.

Parash, how durable are the NORSK tiles. I mean will they get messed up if I jack up my car on them? I'm amazed at your amount of knowledge on these things.
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Old 07-21-2010, 10:25 AM   #9
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Now that is a proper garage. What tile did you go with? Ceramic, Porselin, etc? I wanted to do this too, but didn't know how durable it would be when I put my truck on it, and jack it up if I have to. Only problem I see with using tile is that the install would be a massive project. But I can actually correct a slight pitch problem if I do this.

Parash, how durable are the NORSK tiles. I mean will they get messed up if I jack up my car on them? I'm amazed at your amount of knowledge on these things.
The Norsk is very durable. Your jacks wont mess them up unless you have something jacked up for an extended period of time. They were designed for use in the garage, I haven't heard of any problems with them though.

I use to sell garage tile...sadly not anymore... Which sucks because I think I was good at it. So I thought why not put the knowledge I have to good use...Right?
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Old 07-21-2010, 12:39 PM   #10
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Now that is a proper garage. What tile did you go with? Ceramic, Porselin, etc? I wanted to do this too, but didn't know how durable it would be when I put my truck on it, and jack it up if I have to. Only problem I see with using tile is that the install would be a massive project. But I can actually correct a slight pitch problem if I do this.
I used inexpensive ceramic tile from Home Depot. Porcelain would probably be even more durable, but I have no complaints so far. You can't be as reckless with it as bare concrete. But in my opinion, it doesn't require as much caution as VCT or epoxy. And if I ever do break a tile, they're pretty easy to replace.

Installation took me a weekend. Setting tile is not very difficult. Grout is kind of brutal.



It gets lots of abuse, now. I minimize slag burns with welding blankets.





To clean it, I just blow the place out with a leaf blower:

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Old 07-21-2010, 12:42 PM   #11
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have you checked out the flooring section of www.garagejournal.com Those guys have covered every type flooring for garages with great tips and suggestions.

Post some pics of b4 and after once you decide!
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Old 07-21-2010, 01:22 PM   #12
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Jack, that is nice, the 911 and garage. I might actually go that route, garage I mean. Damn your setup is nice.
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Old 07-21-2010, 01:33 PM   #13
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The Ceramic tiles work well in warm climates, if you live in a colder climates; You can have some problems with the cold, I have had alot of guys tell me that their tiles would crack and shatter because of the pressure, tempurature of tires, and the like.
think it looks great. Though!!

not disagreeing or anything, just tellin' ya what I have heard. So it isn't first hand, and we all know people sometimes exaggerate
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Old 07-21-2010, 01:52 PM   #14
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I agree. In an outdoor application, especially, you have to look at the water content of the ceramic (or porcelain).

Tiles come with three ratings from the manufacturer.

First off, there's a P.E.I. (Porcelain Enamel Institute) Wear Rating:

Group I - Tiles suitable only for residential/commercial walls. Not suitable and/or recommended for foot traffic

Group II - Tiles suited to general light residential traffic, except kitchens, entrance halls, and other areas subjected to continuous foot traffic.

Group III - Tiles suited for all residential and light commercial areas such as offices, reception areas and boutiques.

Group IV - Tiles suited for residential, medium commercial and light institutional applications such as restaurants, hotels, hospital lobbies and corridors.

Group V - Tiles suitable for heavy traffic both residential and heavy commercial applications such airports, malls and subways.


Then there's a Water Absorption Rating:

1. Non-vitreous Tiles - absorb 7% or more of its body weight in water. They are suited for indoor use only and considered to be non-frost resistant.

2. Semi-vitreous Tiles - absorb between 3% to 7% of its body weight in water. They are suited for indoor use only and considered to be non-frost resistant.

3. Vitreous Tiles - absorb between 0.5% to 3% of its body weight in water. They are suited for both interior and exterior applications (covered and/or non-heated rooms not exposed to standing water) and considered to be frost resistant.

4. Impervious Tiles - are the strongest. They absorb between 0 and 0.5% of their weight in water.


Finally, there's COF (coefficient of friction), with a rating for both wet and dry. This is how slippery the tile gets when it's wet. I don't know what the typical range is for ceramic tiles.


My cheapo tiles have a PEI rating of 'IV' (residential, medium commercial and light institutional applications). Obviously, 'V' would be the absolute ideal for a garage.

My water absorption rate is 3-7%, which means the tiles are not frost-resistant or frost-proof, and wouldn't cut it in an exterior application in a part of the country with sub-freezing temps. But then, I would guess Home Depot probably sells more appropriate tiles in parts of the country where it does freeze.

My coefficient of friction is 0.60, wet or dry. I haven't found much on the internet on this, aside from the fact the City of Los Angeles building code requires that level surfaces have a COF of not less than 0.60 and ramps no less than 0.80 when tested. I guess that would mean I'm just slip-resistant enough to be used in the local shopping mall.
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Old 07-22-2010, 08:49 AM   #15
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Great info. I am going with tiles as well. Any special installation instructions? I have a slab, maybe 75 years old, has some cracks, and one front section that I think moves under traffic. I know I will have to fix that, its by the entrance. What adhesive do you recommend? What floor prep should I do? Only problem I have is that my garage is full of crap. I really need to spend a week in there cleaning it out. Thanks in advance.

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