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Old 12-01-2011, 07:14 PM   #16
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Gap between tub and durock (not lip)


With tile being 12 x 24 I would use a 1/2 x1/2 notched trowel. Tile that size needs it. Use a no slump thinset mortar. Get Durock all corrected and coat everything good with Redgard. Tear out plastic behind Doroc.
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Old 12-05-2011, 03:23 PM   #17
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Gap between tub and durock (not lip)


Thank you all the input. I decided to take down the durock and shim the studs. There does not seem to be any other way of fixing the problem.
Will post pictures soon.
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Old 12-05-2011, 03:25 PM   #18
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Gap between tub and durock (not lip)


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Originally Posted by plowboy View Post
With tile being 12 x 24 I would use a 1/2 x1/2 notched trowel. Tile that size needs it. Use a no slump thinset mortar. Get Durock all corrected and coat everything good with Redgard. Tear out plastic behind Doroc.
I thought the square-notch was for flooring tiles. Would it not be too much mortar if I use this for wall tiling?
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Old 12-05-2011, 07:35 PM   #19
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Gap between tub and durock (not lip)


Quote:
I thought the square-notch was for flooring tiles. Would it not be too much mortar if I use this for wall tiling?
The square notch trowel is not only for floors, the right trowel is based on the size of the tiles more than anything else. "V" trowels are generally for thinner adhesive applications or for mastic. It's difficult to predict which of the trowels we've mentioned will be the best for you and your tiles. Depends on how much the backs are textured, the way you hold the trowel, how you mix the thin set and how flat the surface is. The right trowel will be one of the following. 1/4x3/8x1/4, 1/4x1/2x1/4 or 1/2x1/2. You'll want to "butter" the backs too.

Install a few, then remove to confirm the % of coverage. For wet areas you want as close to 100% as possible.

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Old 04-05-2012, 10:15 AM   #20
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Gap between tub and durock (not lip)


After taking a break from this project we are back again at it. More changes!
First, we removed the cast iron tub because it didn't hold water deep enough (about 8"). So it was sitting there like a glorified shower pan. We took it out with a 16LB sledge hammer. (it was very satisfying I must say! ). Second, we removed the durock on the right wall to realize that 1/2" of the durock was embedded in the long wall - it was very hard to remove without damaging the inside edges where they meet. So, we are in the process of removing all the durock.



So, now we have a concrete slab sunken shower area of size 30"x60", 6" deep, with a left drain.
  1. Is there a way to use the concrete base without any tile on the floor by just sloping it correctly with mortar/mesh? What is the available liquid sealant in the market for concrete?
  2. I looked at a few shower trays and liked the American Standard 6032Y1.ST.L (for whatever reason, left drain is $150 more than right drain), but the tray requires to be screwed into the studs. I cannot do that because I have a ground floor - 6" sunken slab. Is it ok to install it in the sunken area on a levelled mortar base without anchoring?
  3. I want to install the tile backing again - is there an alternative to durock? What is the difference between Hardy board 0.5" and durock 0.5"?
  4. I have read a number of articles about DensShield. Some of them talk about how DensShield fell apart after a few years. Any advice?
Thanks again for all the help so far!

-G
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Last edited by megablok; 04-05-2012 at 10:19 AM. Reason: added image
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