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Old 10-13-2011, 09:56 AM   #16
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floor over 24" o.c. truss joists


I'll do that, it was supposed to be an upstairs, for anything, I hope I didn't get screwed by the builder.

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Old 10-14-2011, 06:00 PM   #17
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I notice the following specification on your diagram (top left corner, 4th paragraph down):

"BC attic room floor loading: LL - 40.00 psf : DL - 10.00 psf : from 13-11-4 to 25-11-4"

I don't know much (anything) about trusses, but it looks like your trusses are designed to meet typical residential live load requirements - 40psf is what is required for kitchens/dinning rooms and the like.
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Old 10-14-2011, 06:49 PM   #18
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Yes Jules I also saw that, but then I read "deflection meets L240 live and L180 total load". So I think a conversation with the manufacturer would be in order.

The maximum deflection for residential is L360 @ 40/10 for non sleeping rooms. Sleeping rooms may have more deflection, I think it's L240.

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Old 10-14-2011, 08:34 PM   #19
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Yes Jules I also saw that, but then I read "deflection meets L240 live and L180 total load". So I think a conversation with the manufacturer would be in order.

The maximum deflection for residential is L360 @ 40/10 for non sleeping rooms. Sleeping rooms may have more deflection, I think it's L240.

Jaz
Is deflection rating important to the strength of the floor? I thought it was more of a cosmetic thing (provided your flooring is flexible enough).
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Old 10-14-2011, 08:41 PM   #20
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Deflection is the most important factor of a subfloor system. It's the amount of vertical movement relative to the span under certain loads. Definitely not cosmetic.

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Old 10-14-2011, 09:01 PM   #21
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Deflection is the most important factor of a subfloor system. It's the amount of vertical movement relative to the span under certain loads. Definitely not cosmetic.

Jaz
I just never thought of the amount of vertical movement as being a particularly important variable for a floor - I actually like bouncy old wood floors though.

(Hearing "bouncy" and "floors" combined together in a sentence must be like nails on a blackboard for a tiler )
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Old 10-14-2011, 09:43 PM   #22
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floor over 24" o.c. truss joists


I wonder if you couldn't reinforce the underside with 20' 2x4s, turning he joist into an inverted "T"? I said 20' mainly because I'd want to overlap the splice plates by quite a bit.
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Old 10-14-2011, 10:47 PM   #23
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There must be some walls under the tresses
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Old 10-15-2011, 11:21 AM   #24
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That is really light construction. It appears they built you an "Attic" and you signed off on it. Whether or not that space is suitable for living is up to local codes I think but what is there is the minimum of the minimal as far as I know.

You would have to take that drawing to your local building inspection office and see if they consider it suitable for what you want to do.

I'll bet that sucker bounces like a trampoline up there! Keep in mind it may need to also carry the weight of drywall on the ceiling below.
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Old 10-15-2011, 04:49 PM   #25
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Tried calling the structural engineer who had them made, number no longer in service. You mean to tell me the hot tub and water beds are a no go? lol. But I will be really pissed if I can't have a little place up there. Wanted a bedrm, bath, liv rm.
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Old 10-15-2011, 04:58 PM   #26
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I have seen a lot of attic trusses. Those appear to be a little on the light side based on the span. We usually install solid bridging down the middle and at each side where the vertical member creates the room. Use a lot of construction glue including on the edges off all the bridging. Don't plan on installing a tile floor, but other than that, I think you will be ok.
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Old 10-15-2011, 05:49 PM   #27
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I think you can rule out the bath without more work or bracing underneath
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Old 10-15-2011, 08:10 PM   #28
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Tried calling the structural engineer who had them made, number no longer in service. You mean to tell me the hot tub and water beds are a no go? lol. But I will be really pissed if I can't have a little place up there. Wanted a bedrm, bath, liv rm.

are there walls under the trusses, anywhere near the center? or a supporting beam or anything? Go up there and bounce up and down and see if they feel solid or not. Your probably fine doing whatever you want with living space, except i wouldn't put a bathtub. Shower only.
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Old 10-15-2011, 08:40 PM   #29
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I'm not real confident about a toilet even. put it on the end wall maybe. You'd probably want to do that anyways for the plumbing.

diagonal bracing or plywood sheeting on the outside of the living area walls might help stiffen it up by tying the trusses together more. The sheeting would probably be a bit better and help insulate the living area.
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Old 10-15-2011, 10:28 PM   #30
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Thank you guys for the info. I was thinking plywood on the trusses too to stiffen it up a little. Buti need to make my stairs first, and need to know how thick the floor needs to be for the stair calculations. I'm thinking threequarter ply maybe.

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