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Old 12-03-2009, 11:09 AM   #1
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Fir T&G flooring


Hi all, I'm new to the site and hope I might gleen some good info here, and maybe offer an observation now and then.

I've built an addition consisting of two rooms and a big closet. The subfloor is osb on 2X6 on 16 " centers. I've made all the lumber and it's sawn to standard size. I'm about ready to take the rough cut 1 X 6 and 8's to the mill and have them dried, sized, and milled to t&g.

Should I install the sheetrock on the walls before laying the floor?

Should I nail and glue the fir flooring to the subfloor?

If nailing, do I need a 'special' floor nailing hammer or will my air hammer be sufficient? If so, what size nails should I use?

Any feed back is appreciated. I know these are sophmoric questions, but I've never layed flooring before.... soooooo here I go!

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Old 12-03-2009, 01:19 PM   #2
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Fir T&G flooring


install the drywall first.

install the same as any T&G flooring. No glue. resin paper or felt under the flooring over the sub-floor. Nail with hand or pneumatic flooring nailer or stapler. A framing nailer will split the toungue and a finish nailer will not offer enough hold.

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Old 12-03-2009, 02:43 PM   #3
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Fir T&G flooring


Thanks Bob, that's as I thought and what I was looking for. Another question comes to mind. Because I don't have a hammer/stapler and will be hand nailing, what size nail and how far apart should the nails be to secure the flooring?
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Old 12-03-2009, 04:13 PM   #4
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Fir T&G flooring


Rent the tools needed. You nail every 12" into the tongue at an angle. Even by hand a floor nailer is used. Unless you are considering face nailing them. (not the way to go) but was done for many years in the past. Here two nails into each joist are used.
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Old 12-03-2009, 09:02 PM   #5
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Yeah Bob, face nailing is not what's going to happen! The last tool I rented (hammer/drill) cost me nearly forty bucks a day... I'm trying to avoid that, but may have no alternative. Thanks for your help... I'm far from being done and will likely return in the near future...
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Old 12-04-2009, 06:26 AM   #6
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Yeah Bob, face nailing is not what's going to happen! The last tool I rented (hammer/drill) cost me nearly forty bucks a day... I'm trying to avoid that, but may have no alternative. Thanks for your help... I'm far from being done and will likely return in the near future...
Yeah, you're going to pay around $40/day, but the time savings renting the proper tool is well worth it IMO.
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Old 12-04-2009, 07:39 AM   #7
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Fir T&G flooring


how wide is your flooring gonna be? bcause if you're going wider than 4", you wanna glue AND staple that down, or else it will cup or warp with wet/dry seasons. If youdon't wanna use a pro, at least use pro tools to do it. it's well worth it timewise and quality wise. don't try to cut where you only have "bone". you want something durable long term, right?
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Old 12-04-2009, 09:37 AM   #8
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MSV, thanks... good point! The flooring will be about 70% 6" and most of the rest will be 8" along with a few 4" here and there. I don't have a pattern for the planks so will be a random (with careful considerations) layout. If I use glue (which I guess I will) do I still lay down a layer of felt and glue to that? What glue would you recommend? Are you suggestioning nails would be improper and I should only use staples?
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Old 12-04-2009, 11:00 AM   #9
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MSV, thanks... good point! The flooring will be about 70% 6" and most of the rest will be 8" along with a few 4" here and there. I don't have a pattern for the planks so will be a random (with careful considerations) layout. If I use glue (which I guess I will) do I still lay down a layer of felt and glue to that? What glue would you recommend? Are you suggestioning nails would be improper and I should only use staples?
Not pimping any products here, just saying what I've had good luck with. I like bostiks best glue for gluing down flooring. It's sticky stuff & it holds very well. If you're using glue, you don't use felt or builders paper. I prefer 2" floor nails. They hold very well.
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Old 12-04-2009, 06:28 PM   #10
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hey there... well, i agree that bostik is the best glue there by far. will stick to anything and it is damn resistant to water. but for glue &nails, i think using that one would be overkill. I sometimes use lines of Liquid Nails spread in a 45 degree angle to the direction of the flooring every 10" - 12" inches apart. and no, u don't use felt in this care. just make sure to clean the subfloor really good.no dust or splinters. As for nails vs staples, can't say much about nails(cleats i think) because i never used them. only 2"staples and 2" nails for the finish gun. all my tools are pneumatic. no mechanic ones.
gl, MSV
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Old 12-04-2009, 11:44 PM   #11
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hey there... well, i agree that bostik is the best glue there by far. will stick to anything and it is damn resistant to water. but for glue &nails, i think using that one would be overkill. I sometimes use lines of Liquid Nails spread in a 45 degree angle to the direction of the flooring every 10" - 12" inches apart. and no, u don't use felt in this care. just make sure to clean the subfloor really good.no dust or splinters. As for nails vs staples, can't say much about nails(cleats i think) because i never used them. only 2"staples and 2" nails for the finish gun. all my tools are pneumatic. no mechanic ones.
gl, MSV
Hi msv... are you saying you use 2" floor nails in your 'regular' pneumatic finish nail gun? If so, have you had a problems with splintering the tongue? It would seem to me the nails, cleats, staples or whatever, would help secure the boards while the glue sets, even though possible overkill.
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Old 12-05-2009, 03:19 AM   #12
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i'm saying i only use staples(with bostich III stapler - available for rent at HD) and nails in the finish nailer, where the stapler doesn't fit(first couple of lines and last couple of lines). I'd never install a floor only with finish nails. Again, never had any experience with cleats( they're some kinda nails, L shaped). that's kinda old school i guess.
The tongue shouldn't splinter if you set the right pressure on your compressor. i usually run it at 100-110 regulated pressure. Staples and nails secure the wood. Glue helps with stability of your floor long term (squeaks, cupping, movement, etc).
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Last edited by msv; 12-05-2009 at 03:24 AM.
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Old 12-05-2009, 10:42 AM   #13
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Thanks all for sharing your expertise (nice website msv). I'm sure another few questions will arise, but now I've a better idea as to the task the awaits my aching back... lol
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Old 12-05-2009, 05:03 PM   #14
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feel free to ask... we'll be here
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Old 04-17-2010, 11:53 PM   #15
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Well, I'm back. I'm bringing back to life an old thread where many of my questions were answered and acted upon. The floor has now been laid and is beautiful. However, tomorrow I'll sand it with a rented orbital sander, finishing it with 120 screen. My questions now relate to staining and sealing.

I've bot 4 gallons of Duraseal polyurethane for the sealer. I know there are better sealers but have used this product before with satisfactory results. Because the flooring is fir, I understand the wood needs to be 'conditioned' before staining to lessen the chances of blotching. I was told by two people in the field that they condition the wood using water soaked rags only, applying a light application and then wiping it off to let it air dry before staining. They both claim that it works as well as pre staining conditioners bot at a typical hardware. Has anyone here heard of such a technique? I've been unable to find a pre conditioner in anything but pints and I've got about 650 sq. feet of flooring. Suggestions??? Thanks for a considerations.

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