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-   -   Filling in gap between Stair and Floor (http://www.diychatroom.com/f5/filling-gap-between-stair-floor-176176/)

buddingdiyer 04-03-2013 10:34 AM

Filling in gap between Stair and Floor
 
1 Attachment(s)
Greetings,

Thanks in advance for your help as this is my first post to the group.

I have a small gap (about the size of a baby finger) between the edge of my wood floor and the bottom of a stone staircase. I'd like to fill it in because my baby is crawling around and can get his fingers in there. I vacuumed the area out already, but there's still some old construction debris/dust that looks like it got trapped in there. I just want to make sure it's not accessible to our baby.

Aesthetics are less important than something functional. I'd even go with duct tape, but I'm afraid my baby would pull it off.

I'm attaching a picture so you can see the area. It's approximately 1/2 inch long by 1 inch wide in its most exposed area. I'm guessing that it's about an inch deep.

Would something like a wood putty or silicone work? I had read somewhere online that something like that could eventually pop out of place since there's movement in floors and this would defeat the purpose since a loose piece of putty could then be a choking hazard. The most important thing is not that it's level with the existing floor but that I have some sort of barrier blocking contact with any debris that's currently in there. So even a little silicone that doesn't fill in the entire hole would be fine if that could work. Alternatively I could just stuff something in there, as long as there was no way for my baby to pull it out. I hope this all makes sense!

I really appreciate any tips or advice you can offer.

Thanks so much!

Seattle2k 04-04-2013 12:18 PM

Caulking would work. But, I would use flexible wood molding, like: http://flexiblemillwork.com/base-shoe.html

joecaption 04-04-2013 05:40 PM

Back up and take another picture.

buddingdiyer 04-04-2013 11:54 PM

Follow-up
 
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Thanks for your suggestion and help.

Joecaption: Here's a photo from a distance per your request. I wonder if the original flooring guys should have put a shoe moulding around but didn't.

If I use a shoe moulding, is it better to just use regular wood and cut short pieces at angles for the edges, or to get a flexible one?

Thanks!

Seattle2k 04-05-2013 12:46 AM

Personal preference. Fitting all of those miters together might be tricky.

Also, a correction to my previous post. It should've read "flexible wood-like molding". Though, it's also technically possibly to steam real-wood molding and get it to bend. but it too would likely be tricky. A plastic/composite product would be easiest.

buddingdiyer 04-05-2013 06:42 PM

Hi again,

I had two follow-up questions:

1) If I go with a shoe moulding, where do I nail it to? I don't think I can nail horizontally into the stone staircase? Would I just nail into my floors vertically?

2) I did find a product online if I decide to fill it in called Woodepox which supposedly would not shrink. Curious if anyone has opinions on that.

Thanks again!

BigJim 04-05-2013 08:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by buddingdiyer (Post 1153197)
Hi again,

I had two follow-up questions:

1) If I go with a shoe moulding, where do I nail it to? I don't think I can nail horizontally into the stone staircase? Would I just nail into my floors vertically?

2) I did find a product online if I decide to fill it in called Woodepox which supposedly would not shrink. Curious if anyone has opinions on that.

Thanks again!

If you are going to use epoxy I would put tape on the flooring from the edge out a ways so the epoxy won't get on the floor it can mess the finish up and is hard to get off.

Seattle2k 04-05-2013 09:41 PM

I'd be concerned the epoxy would eliminate the flooring's expansion gap.

If that's a floating floor, I wouldn't attach the shoe molding to the flooring. MAAAYBE, if it's solid nail-down or glue-down. that's a big maybe, because I know it's wrong any way you look at it.

I'd glue shoe molding to the concrete with PL adhesive. I think there's a quick-cure PL. mask off the area that you wouldn't want any dripped adhesive. get your molding in place, set some cinderblocks next to it, to keep it in place, until it sets.


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