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Old 10-04-2010, 08:29 AM   #1
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Expansion Gap for Engineered Hardwood Floor


We have a 10x10 screened-in sunporch in which my wife would like engineered hardwood installed to match the kitchen (we currently have something that could only be described as 1970s Astroturf in it). When I've installed flooring in the past, I've always left an expansion gap between the first and last course and the wall which was eventually covered up by molding. However, the porch is screened from floor to ceiling so there is no way to install any molding. I don't, however, want a visible gap. Anyone have any ideas? In such a small room, is such a gap even necessary? thanks!
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Old 10-04-2010, 05:09 PM   #2
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Expansion Gap for Engineered Hardwood Floor


use quarter round if you can squeeze it in. there should be some type of gap. if i remember right 1/4" is what's recommended but that's excessive imo in a settled house. still, without any gap something will give when you have settling and shifting. you could either use a colored caulk or caulked in quarter round that will hide your flex line.
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Old 10-04-2010, 09:43 PM   #3
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Expansion Gap for Engineered Hardwood Floor


I don't think the house settling is the issue here. Eng'd floors absorb moisture during damp seasons/conditions and expand accordingy.
In my opinion, the OP should contact the material manufacturer to get the answer about how much of a gap is required IF in fact the flooring is suitable for this application in a screened-in sunporch. And a Quarter-round or shoe moulding is an excellent choice for covering the gap. Caulking would not be the good choice.
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Old 10-05-2010, 07:18 AM   #4
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Expansion Gap for Engineered Hardwood Floor


Thanks for the advice everyone. I'm not too concerned with the material. I shouldn't have said it's a screened in porch, it's actually a porch with glass sliders so the room doesn't get wet/humid. As for the quarter round, I don't object to using it, but my concern is how to attach it. When I've installed in the past, I've nailed it to the studs in the room, but because it's floor to ceiling sliders, it would actually need to be attached to the metal bottom of the slider tracks. Any ideas of how to attach?

And any opinions on the calking idea? Thanks again!
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