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Old 10-30-2008, 02:18 PM   #16
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Existing sub-floor


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Originally Posted by JazMan View Post
Divine,

In post #9, I said "That's impossible" because you said in post #8 your joists were 1 3/4". I offered the size joists come in, and you misunderstood the entire thing. You still haven't understood the importance of measuring the unsupported span of the joists.

You have been given some bad advice by jay66, I know he thinks he's helping, but he obviously isn't an expert when it comes to tile installation and subfloors. He sounds like a hardworking handyman to me.

The only reason I am trying to correct what has been written here is to help the hundreds or thousands of others that may read this thread for their own projects.

As for you....you can do it anyway you feel like doing it, and as you stated...."hope for the best".

Jaz

I think you have a big ego and I feel bad for anyone that hires you. You like to hear yourself talk, but I don't. I no longer want your advice, and I think Jay has it all over you.

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Old 10-30-2008, 03:20 PM   #17
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Existing sub-floor


Thanks for the vote of confidence Poodles. I wouldn't justify the other guy with a response, but in light of your contribution, I'll try to defend my advice.

He's right, I'm not a professional tile and/or subfloor guy, and I guess he's also right; I am a hardworking handyman. I've worked hard building several homes from the footings up, and easily 5,000 feet of tile/hardwood a year - all to the delight of my clients.

If I can help any more please don't hesitate to PM me. I don't think I can PM you back yet, but I'll get yours.
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Old 10-30-2008, 03:42 PM   #18
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Existing sub-floor


This reply is for everyone except Divine, who doesn't seem to care if his/her job is done correctly or not.

In post # 13m Jay speaks about your complaint of flex in the subfloor. (Maybe the t&g was cut?) Regardless of why, that spot needs to be blocked from below to correct the flex. Installing Hardie, or any CBU will NOT correct it.

He also stated; If that's the only place it flexes or seems weak, I think you would probably be OK just using 1/2-inch Hardi-backer, especially if you use mortar to hold it down along with screws, staples, or whatever.

That statement confirms he doesn't have the knowledge to give accurate advice. Again, you can't have any flex in the subfloor, and so it must be repaired. He also doesn't know that there is NO CHOICE on whether you install Hardie with thin set under it. Installing ALL cbu's into flesh thinset is NOT an option. All you have to do in to go to Hardie's website for instructions, it's pretty basic stuff. http://www.jameshardie.com/homeowner...install-us.pdf

I regret having to point out these errors and naming names. However, everyday thousands of DIY'ers come here for advice assuming those that answer know what they're talking about. So here we are. Most people will believe what is written.

Jaz
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Old 10-30-2008, 07:12 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by o_jay66 View Post
Thanks for the vote of confidence Poodles. I wouldn't justify the other guy with a response, but in light of your contribution, I'll try to defend my advice.

He's right, I'm not a professional tile and/or subfloor guy, and I guess he's also right; I am a hardworking handyman. I've worked hard building several homes from the footings up, and easily 5,000 feet of tile/hardwood a year - all to the delight of my clients.

If I can help any more please don't hesitate to PM me. I don't think I can PM you back yet, but I'll get yours.
Ya, I can't pm yet either. Ten more posts and then I can pm. LOL

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