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Old 03-30-2011, 09:04 AM   #1
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Epoxy garage flooring


well I redid my garage ceiling walls all new semi-gloss paint (i know people say do gloss but i dont like it on walls in a garage, semi is more cleanable then the primer they had on there before! yes it was just primer!) got new doors in, now I am left with a bare concrete floor that is in pretty good shape but stained up (dark spots, lines in it, all kinds of stuff that oil remover and such didn't take care of)...

I'm ready to cover it with something.. looked at those plastic flooring tiles that interlock, but it was like $2500 to do the floor... I need something cheaper to last me a year or two... so decided to go the epoxy route... but have some questions...

1) there is a very small crack running across the floor.. its about the size of a 2 car garage plus half a car and no expansion joints (not sure if thats what they call them in concrete, where they put a joint so it can crack if it as to in) but the crack runs from the drain in the middle to the opposite end its hairline at first and gets to maybe 2 hairs wide in the end, does this need filled? or will the epoxy do that?

2) Is it possible to do half the garage one time and the other half another? have some items I wouldn't be able to move anywhere while the floor set up (lage freezer, riding mower, etc) thought maybe I could do half get it all done and set up move everything to that side and do the other half... good idea or bad?

3) I am going the quikrete garage floor epoxy route, i want this as fool proof as possible... any opinnions on it or tips / tricks / watch out fors?

thanks!

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Old 03-30-2011, 09:46 AM   #2
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Make sure you properly clean and prep the floors according to the directions on your floor paint. They guy who lived in my house before me did not, and I am suffering the peeling paint because of it.

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Old 03-30-2011, 09:49 AM   #3
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Make sure you properly clean and prep the floors according to the directions on your floor paint. They guy who lived in my house before me did not, and I am suffering the peeling paint because of it.

I've read a lot of places to "prime" the foor, yet the directions for the quikrete epxoy never say anything about priming the floor. It only says to sweep it clean, then do the degreesing / bond lock acid etch let dry for a day then paint...

which is right?
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Old 03-30-2011, 10:31 AM   #4
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I've read a lot of places to "prime" the foor, yet the directions for the quikrete epxoy never say anything about priming the floor. It only says to sweep it clean, then do the degreesing / bond lock acid etch let dry for a day then paint...

which is right?
Don't prime, just clean it more than you thought you'd ever clean your garage floor. The kits usually come with a degreaser/etcher and make sure any other debree is off the floor.
I'm sure you could do your garage floor in two halfs but you'd need two kits as any left over from the first section probably wouldn't last until you're ready for the second section.
I did mine a couple of years ago and its lasted pretty well, especially considering the salt/gravel that they use on our roads during the winter.
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Old 03-30-2011, 10:41 AM   #5
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Don't prime, just clean it more than you thought you'd ever clean your garage floor. The kits usually come with a degreaser/etcher and make sure any other debree is off the floor.
I'm sure you could do your garage floor in two halfs but you'd need two kits as any left over from the first section probably wouldn't last until you're ready for the second section.
I did mine a couple of years ago and its lasted pretty well, especially considering the salt/gravel that they use on our roads during the winter.
no problem with scuff marks or scratches? did you do the clear top coat that comes in another kit?
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Old 03-30-2011, 10:46 AM   #6
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Its pretty (actually really) dirty right now so I can't confirm the presence of scuffs. We did drag our washer and dryer over the floor last week and I think I did scratch it a little but doen't look too bad. Because we're in the mountains I added a Behr anti slip (sand stuff) additive to the mixture and then finished with the 'sprinkles', no clear coat. Can't remember if I read about the clear coat being potentially slippery or not. I also remember doing two coats of the stuff (because I bought the big coat) but that isn't recommended or likely necessary. But it seems to be lasting.
When summer comes around I'll get to clean the floor and see how it looks. I'm sure it looked pretty good last summer.
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Old 03-30-2011, 11:28 AM   #7
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Its pretty (actually really) dirty right now so I can't confirm the presence of scuffs. We did drag our washer and dryer over the floor last week and I think I did scratch it a little but doen't look too bad. Because we're in the mountains I added a Behr anti slip (sand stuff) additive to the mixture and then finished with the 'sprinkles', no clear coat. Can't remember if I read about the clear coat being potentially slippery or not. I also remember doing two coats of the stuff (because I bought the big coat) but that isn't recommended or likely necessary. But it seems to be lasting.
When summer comes around I'll get to clean the floor and see how it looks. I'm sure it looked pretty good last summer.

ah the flakes, had a question on those too... are they raised or do they meld into the floor pretty well? the samples at lowes had them littearly laying ontop of the base color, but the pictures always seem to show them like they went into the paint somehow and melted together
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Old 03-30-2011, 12:08 PM   #8
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I painted my garage floor about 4 years ago using the Rust-Oleum EPOXYShield tinted Ky Wildcat Blue. I also used the flakes, but did not use the "sand" or any other anti-skid material. The floor isn't all that slippery. The chips are slightly embedded, and still sticking up enough to give it some relief. The floor still looks great, but is starting to show scratches and some staining. The paint will stand up to just about anything BUT brake fluid. Brake fluid will bleach out the color and no amount of cleaning will help. I plan to top coat my floor with the clear sometime this summer to bring back the paint to its fantastic blue color.

On my floor, we acid etched the concrete then pressured blasted the surface until the concrete had a uniform sanded looking surface. I sealed the few cracks with a concrete crack sealer from Lowe's. The expansion sawed joints I left open, but I made sure the epoxy coated the inside of the joints. We used 3 gallons intermixing the base paint so the color would be all the same gallon to gallon.

I plan to paint my new equipment garage floor this year. The epoxy sure makes cleaning the floor soooooo easy. I just need to save up some $ before starting this job. The building is 40' x 40' so that is a floor area of 1600 sq ft.!
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Old 03-30-2011, 04:07 PM   #9
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I painted my garage floor about 4 years ago using the Rust-Oleum EPOXYShield tinted Ky Wildcat Blue. I also used the flakes, but did not use the "sand" or any other anti-skid material. The floor isn't all that slippery. The chips are slightly embedded, and still sticking up enough to give it some relief. The floor still looks great, but is starting to show scratches and some staining. The paint will stand up to just about anything BUT brake fluid. Brake fluid will bleach out the color and no amount of cleaning will help. I plan to top coat my floor with the clear sometime this summer to bring back the paint to its fantastic blue color.

On my floor, we acid etched the concrete then pressured blasted the surface until the concrete had a uniform sanded looking surface. I sealed the few cracks with a concrete crack sealer from Lowe's. The expansion sawed joints I left open, but I made sure the epoxy coated the inside of the joints. We used 3 gallons intermixing the base paint so the color would be all the same gallon to gallon.

I plan to paint my new equipment garage floor this year. The epoxy sure makes cleaning the floor soooooo easy. I just need to save up some $ before starting this job. The building is 40' x 40' so that is a floor area of 1600 sq ft.!

Yikes! that's like $500 for the epoxy alone before all the other stuff you need to clean if you dont have the tools or crack filler etc
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Old 03-30-2011, 05:13 PM   #10
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I know, I know. Thats why I said I needed to save some money before I do this! I want to accomplish the painting before I contaminate the new concrete with engine oil, hydraulic fluid, antifreeze grease or any other bad for paint sticking to concrete floors stuff. Right now I have cardboard under the tractor and all the attachments that contain oil or grease. I also fuel the tractor outside just in case I spill some diesel.

What kind of paint did you use on your garage walls? I really need to do mine because like yours the walls seem to only have a thin primer on them. Not too worried about the ceiling. Its 10 feet up there and I'm getting to old to enjoy painting things way up there anymore.

Also I would love to paint the basement floor with something. Just don't know what yet.
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Old 03-30-2011, 05:30 PM   #11
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I know, I know. Thats why I said I needed to save some money before I do this! I want to accomplish the painting before I contaminate the new concrete with engine oil, hydraulic fluid, antifreeze grease or any other bad for paint sticking to concrete floors stuff. Right now I have cardboard under the tractor and all the attachments that contain oil or grease. I also fuel the tractor outside just in case I spill some diesel.

What kind of paint did you use on your garage walls? I really need to do mine because like yours the walls seem to only have a thin primer on them. Not too worried about the ceiling. Its 10 feet up there and I'm getting to old to enjoy painting things way up there anymore.

Also I would love to paint the basement floor with something. Just don't know what yet.
Since its a garage, and can be considered and open space at times, I used semi-gloss exterior paint, some people say not to because of VOC content and stuff of exterior paint, but it seems to uphold better then normal interior paint in the garage with the temp swings and such...

yeah the ceiling I just left that flat white... figured whats the point, ours is 11 ft up so its not the easiest thing to paint even with long handels on the rollers
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Old 03-30-2011, 07:45 PM   #12
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One thing I wanted to mention, I painted our basement steps with Valspar Latex Skid-Not Floor Paint. Although the steps are skid resistant, they are also very hard to keep clean. Everything sticks to the rough texture and won't let go! Pet hair is almost impossible to sweep off. I have repainted the steps twice with a regular floor paint trying to smooth the rough surface with some degree of success. So, when they say "Skid-Not", they really mean it!

Anyway, I shied away from adding anything to the epoxy garage paint except for the flakes because of the steps experience. I can't imaging having a garage floor as rough as those steps were.
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Old 03-31-2011, 11:59 AM   #13
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any temp requirements for this? it hasn't been about 40's much yet around here... I want to do this before it gets too hot out, should be in the 50's for a couple weeks in april... hoping that is a good time to go for it...
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Old 04-08-2011, 07:49 AM   #14
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alright have a question, did the bond-lock etching last night... it bubbled somewhat, not sure how much its supose to "bubble / fizz" but how much is this exactly supose to etch the surface? it feels about the same as a spot I didn't etch with it... I always thought etching made a surface rougher? its a LOT cleaner then it was after this, but besides that it doesn't seem to much different, or is this a light etching? the concrete was smooth to start with not rough... and isn't sealed at all.
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Old 04-08-2011, 09:04 AM   #15
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here's what I've done so far for prep...

1) Swep the floor and shop vac'ed it
2) rinsed the floor with clean water, let dry
3) scraped off any paint or anything that is "raised" above the surface so its all smooth and flat
4) shop vac'ed it again
5) had some oil stains so I put Seal-Krete Oil Stain Remover on those spots, let it sit over night, swep up the dried up powder left
6) rinsed with clean water to remove any seal krete OSR residue left
7) still had some places oil seems to be making water beed up, so use dawn dish soap mixed with water over the floor and scrubbed it a lot... this got rid of a lot of the oil on top it seemed to clean pretty good
8) rinsed it till all the soap was gone... let dry
9) rinsed it again just because... let dry completely for a day
10) wet down the floor slightly and did the bond-lock in a watering can (3 parts water to 1 part bond-lock like the stuff said) poured it on, didn't do much on contact but it started to bubble after a few seconds... scrubbed it in like directed in two directions... it bubbled but still didn't seem like it did that much
11) let the bond-lock sit for a couple minutes, but didn't let it dry, then rinsed it till the floor water was running clean..... let it dry with a fan helping since its only in the 60's outside after drying the floor looked MUCH cleaner, and amazing all the darker spots are gone now, and the whole floor looks about two shades lighter then spots that wern't covered with the bond lock (parts that went outside, etc)

now waiting for at least 24 hours to completely dry..... finished the last step of the prep last night at 8pm... today it will dry all day so 4hrs last night dry plus 24hrs more tonight and probably going to paint saturday morning around 8pm.... so I hope it will be dry enough by then its pretty dry as it is now...

did a concrete moisture emissions test last year and got basically nothing, so water doesn't seem to be coming out of the slab in any bad amount... also did the take a piece of plastic tarp over a 2x2ft square section to see if any vapor forms under it or the concrete is darker in that spot... nope nothing... so I hope its all good to go for paint.....

what do you guys think?

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