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Old 03-17-2012, 05:58 AM   #31
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Is this enough subflooring support?


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Originally Posted by JetSwet View Post
Yes unsanded is much nicer to work with "BUT"
You need sanded grout for any tile bigger then 4" and floors, did you know this or no?
Whoa---tile size has no bearing on the grout used --only the width of the grout line---this installer has 1/8" lines --so unsanded is required.

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Old 03-17-2012, 06:11 AM   #32
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Is this enough subflooring support?


Lmao?!?... and where did you guys Learn that tile size has no barring on grout used but grout line size.
Floors are sanded regardless for anything.

Last edited by JetSwet; 03-17-2012 at 06:16 AM.
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Old 03-17-2012, 06:50 AM   #33
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Is this enough subflooring support?


Jetswet---You knowledge of tiling practices is almost non existent--

Back up that statement with facts and I will listen---site a grout maker or the Tile Council of North America

Give us something to back up that 'fact'---I've been setting tile for a while now and never heard that one before---
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Old 03-17-2012, 07:48 AM   #34
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Is this enough subflooring support?


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Originally Posted by oh'mike
Jetswet---You knowledge of tiling practices is almost non existent--

Back up that statement with facts and I will listen---site a grout maker or the Tile Council of North America

Give us something to back up that 'fact'---I've been setting tile for a while now and never heard that one before---
I do it for a living as I was told and taught this way, alot of things I do are frowned upon apparently here.
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Old 03-17-2012, 07:59 AM   #35
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Is this enough subflooring support?


Educate your self--Buy the TCNA manual---it's about $20 and is the ultimate source --years of research and studys of failures went into the book.

I worked for a big tile company 20 years back and they did a lot of work the wrong way---so you must teach your self the right way.

Reading that book will help --Your tile supplier may have a copy for you.

Many things have changed over the years---mastic formulas changed a few years back--VOC compliance--now they re-emulsify much more quickly--and are a sure failure in a wet area---all the things need to be learned and are covered in the TCNA manual--

An open mind and education will make your work the best that it can be----Mike----
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Old 03-17-2012, 08:02 AM   #36
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Is this enough subflooring support?


I do not enjoy criticizing people in public--Sorry about that,but I wanted to prevent the OP from using the improper product---Mike----
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Old 03-17-2012, 08:21 AM   #37
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Is this enough subflooring support?


Ok I was stating how I did it thought was the right way Opps.
I get upset when I find out that i have been taught the wrong way?! I'll look for the book,
There are too many methods out there it will soon put me in the loony bin
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Old 03-17-2012, 09:00 AM   #38
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Is this enough subflooring support?


Theres lots of ways to do lots of things, fewer though that are correct or "accepted practice".
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Old 03-17-2012, 10:10 AM   #39
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Is this enough subflooring support?


I like to stick to what I know, hasn't failed me yet.
I just have to read more posts instead of middling in.
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Old 03-17-2012, 10:42 AM   #40
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Is this enough subflooring support?


Okay, sounds like all very intelligent floks...compromise because every situation is different.
Here is the latest low-down

There are 2 structural beams running parallel to each other and along the longest dimension of the kitchen floor.

Those beams are spaced 7’-0” apart
The first beam is 4’ from the house building sill, the next is 11’.

I have Ύ” plywood sub-flooring

The joists are 7” x 1-1/2’ spaced center to center 16”

Have 12” x 12” x 3/8” thick black granite tile, will have 1/8” grout line using black grout

I am checking to see how many of the pic’s took.
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Old 03-17-2012, 08:10 PM   #41
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Is this enough subflooring support?


If I'm understanding it right, your 2x8" joists of unknown species and grade spaced 16" o.c. span no more than 7'0". Right?

If so, the joists' deflection is Ok for natural stone. However, you need another layer of plywood underlayment to stiffen the between-the-joists deflection. A single layer is not good for natural stone installation. You can get away with 3/8" B/C, but I recommend min. 1/2".

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Old 03-19-2012, 11:20 AM   #42
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Is this enough subflooring support?


Jaz,
Thanks, yes everything you stated about my spec's is correct. Instead of adding an additional 1/2" ply wood sub flooring..could i brace underneath the joists??
I am trying to not create a situation where there is a step-up from the living room's hardwood flooring to the granite flooring.
The hardwood I'll be removing is 5/8" thick so you see with 1/2" ply pluse the 3/8" thickness of the tile and the thin set..I have an unprofessional appearance with the step-up
Help please
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Old 03-19-2012, 04:47 PM   #43
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Is this enough subflooring support?


Quote:
Instead of adding an additional 1/2" ply wood sub flooring..could i brace underneath the joists??
There are those that believe it's possible. I've heard of people installing plywood under the subfloor and adding blocking to the second layer too. It's not always possible and hard to do though. I question how effective that might be. Otherwise you can install a bevelled threshold to match the wood or granite.

or......
Quote:
I (will) have an unprofessional appearance with the step-up
Help please
What would really be unprofessional is to have cracked and loose tiles if the base flexes too much.

You need min. 3/8" ply (just under 3/8" thick), backer board - (1/4" plus thin set under it), Granite tiles & thin set, (1cm + 3/32".) Total about 1 1/4" or so. So about 5/8" higher than the hardwood. An alternative is to use Ditra instead of the backer. 5/16" - 1/8" = 3/16" thinner. Or switch back to 1/2" ply & Ditra and still be a little thinner than with backer board.

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Old 03-19-2012, 05:07 PM   #44
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Is this enough subflooring support?


I agree 10,000% A step up is NOT "unprofessional" what is unprofessional is cracking and loose tiles.

Your other option if you really just can't deal with a difference in floor height is to rip out your subfloor completely, so that the only thing there is the joists over the plummet to the basement floor. Then put 3/4 ply down, and go from there. You still may have to pour SLU, which will add thickness, and you'll need backer which will add thickness.

My home, built in 1873, has all of the original floors. I have two thresholds that were put in at the same time the house was, and they are an inch tall. The floors are the same height, but there is a piece of wood that you step over between rooms. It's just the way it was built. It doesn't look bad, and since it's beveled nicely, there are no stubbed toes.

My last home went from original hardwoods (paper thin over sub floor) to my tile floor - over an inch between the floor heights. We put in an eight inch wide oak threshold that looked great, helped to mask the height difference and I truly can't remember horrible stubbed toes at any point in time.

It sounds more crappy-looking than it really is.
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Old 03-19-2012, 07:41 PM   #45
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Is this enough subflooring support?


This is a 16 year old home. I have already 3/4" sub flooring. My husband asked if cross-bracing and sistering the floor joists the full length would add enough strength...
What say you?

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