Engineered Hardwood: Inlaid transition?
I'm thinking of installing engineered hardwood on a floor in my house. Essentially, what I have is an approx 10ft long hallway. At each end of the hallway is a bedroom. See the attached layout for more detail.
Basically, I'd like to put a transition under each bedroom door. The planks run perpendicular to the transition (I guess that's obvious).
What I'm worried about is the planks that run in the hallway between the transitions, since they won't have any room at the ends (I'd like them to butt up tightly with the transition pieces).
I don't like the look of the "regular" transition pieces that sit on top of the wood and would prefer one that sits inlaid or flush.
1) Is there a name for this type of transition?
2) Can I do this with engineered hardwood?
3) Are there any tricks to help me make the planks land tightly against the transition (i.e., do I cut each one carefully, or lay them all and mark with a straight edge? Cut in place?)
4) Am I "way" better off making it one continuous floor?
Any and all help is appreciated!
I'm moderately competent at this sort of thing, so if precise cutting is required I'm sure I'll be able to do it (but I will make a lot of scrap...) but I don't know if the floor be ok (or will it buckle?).
It is called a "Reducer."
I am sure they make then for your flooring style
Itís called a header board and really makes for a sharp appearance. Often seen in higher end homes or done by installers that really take pride in their work. Theyíre normally used where the wood floor ends and meets up against carpet.
Personally Iíd run it straight through and forget about the headers but thatís me. If you do go ahead with it and Iím assuming itís not a floating floor(problems with that method here). You really want to connect everything tongue and groove otherwise over time you will get squeaking once the area is walked on enough timesÖbeen there...my own house!
Install the headers and work off them in both directions. You will have to cut pieces to fit in the middle of the hall and router (with slot cutter) out some groovesÖso once again they donít squeak.
We call that "boards turned sideways",I only install them at the customers request,and they are requested very little expect by builders who are to cheap to get the proper reducer.
If you have doorways opposite each other, one side will not have a beveled/finished edge or a tongue and groove insert unless one is modified, this will allow moisture intrustion and could lead to premature wearing.
Then you have an exposed edge on the carpet side unless your carpet is 3/4 tall, providing you are working with 3/4 wood.
Get the correct Reducer, if you need to tuck carpet to the edge trim the face of the reducer just enough to get a good fluid tuck and flow.
Are those pictures of your work ? Looks good but...
Not Carpet to Carpet
So, basically what I'm going for is the the headerboard shown in Hardwood guy's photo, except it won't be a transition from hardwood to carpet, it's hardwood to hardwood. So, both sides of the header board be the same height (and thus, not a reducer I think)
I'm considering this approach because I think it looks nice. I'd probably use a plank with a different stain (so it would be darker or lighter than the rest of the floor).
I was hoping there would be a good trick for installing without having to rely on super-accurate cuts.
As for the tongue and grove, I think they should all line up. In the floor plan I attached, if I install the boards so the "end-tongue" points up, and the headerboard's side-tongue points up as well, then they'll all lock into place. No?
Is there any concern about expansion between the two headerboards? The wood there won't be able to expand along it's length (which I believe is ok, right?)
No reason to think about expansion. Otherwise some of the finest hardwood flooring designs would look awful, if they considered such.
With the header board you'll essentially have a tongue facing one way and the groove another. Difficult to explain but they will interlock if they're milled straight. The largest obstacle is going to be the engineeerd hardwood you're using. Some may have repititous lengths, making it troblesome to get a good random look.
The only cuts you'll need are in the center of the hallway. All the other pieces will join together at the header boards engaged by the tongue and groove. There's much more to this procedure than mentioned. Getting very precise cuts in the hall is key. And if it's a beveled floor you'll have to reproduce that.
I thought I had some pics.
We are all forgetting that engineered wood was mentioned.
If your floating the wood then a headerboard will not work.
Only for Glue or nail will a headerboard work....
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