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Old 11-30-2011, 06:40 PM   #1
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Engineered flooring - tell me I didn't screw up!


Hello Everyone,

I'm new around here and I come to you with a question regarding engineered flooring installation. I may have screwed up so I'd like your opinions and long-term evaluation of my installation.

Prior to installation: I let the planks reach room temperature and settle for 24 to 48 hours. I sorted the planks and discarded the ones that were warped.


- I live on the 2-nd floor of a 4 story condo complex and I just finished installing some 3/8" thick engineered flooring in my bedroom.
- The base of the floor is 1 1/2 " of "gypcrete", a standard way of doing fireproof and sound barrier floors in condos here in Canada.
- The gypcrete floor is very sturdy and even and has no cracks or protrusions.
- I first laid a vapour barrier onto the gypcrete, then a 1/8" thick felt pad for some soundproofing.
- Then I installed the flooring, making sure I left a 3/8" gap all around the edges so the floor could expand and contract appropriately.
-The room is pretty much kept at a constant 20-21 degrees C (70-71 F) with humidity between 30 and 50 all year round; heat in winter, air conditoning in summer.

The engineered planks are tongue and groove. I thought I would make the floor sturdier and less prone to splitting by gluing the planks together (but NOT glued to the floor, obviously). I used wood glue. So essentially, the whole floating floor is one giant 12 foot X 12 foot slab.

Today, I read that this is the wrong kind of glue to use and that I should have used a more pliable type of glue. In walking on the floor, there is slight creaking sometimes but I can live with that and I suppose it will eventually settle. But because I used a hard glue, I'm wondering if the expansion and contraction will eventually break the floor apart ?

Any thoughts?

Thank you

John


Last edited by JohnMtl; 11-30-2011 at 06:54 PM.
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Old 11-30-2011, 07:19 PM   #2
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Engineered flooring - tell me I didn't screw up!


All you can do is wait and see.

I can tell you that in the early days of laminate flooring they were glued with an adhesive not unlike Elmer's Glue or any wood-shop glue you may find in those days. To my knowledge using that type of glue has never been an issue. I know engineered wood floor isn't laminate flooring but none-the-less the same concept.

The difference would be laminate floors usually have a particle board type core whereas engineered wood flooring is basically a plywood of sorts. I would think the particle board core would erupt issues long before a plywood core flooring would.

One curious thing you said kinda puzzles me tho...You said you discarded the warped pieces. There shouldn't have been any warped pieces when it comes to engineered wood flooring, at least not enough of them to cause anyone to even mention it.

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Old 11-30-2011, 08:10 PM   #3
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Engineered flooring - tell me I didn't screw up!


Hi Bud,

Thanks for the quick reply. "Wait and see" is indeed the name of the game at this point.

Yes, I discarded warped planks, 2 per box on average. Most were just slightly warped and a few were e
warped enough for me not to trust them any further. I noticed a bit late that this floor was a "product of china" so its probably not of high grade (3.25 $Can per foot). It IS curious that in a box of mixed length planks that some of them would be warped. One bad batch of plywood substrate may have made its way in bits and pieces in several different cartons, who knows. An unheated lumberyard warehouse may not have helped either, I don't know.

John

Last edited by JohnMtl; 11-30-2011 at 08:13 PM.
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Old 11-30-2011, 08:16 PM   #4
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Engineered flooring - tell me I didn't screw up!


Weird!

The whole point in even manufacturing engineered flooring is to eliminate warping. That's what engineered flooring is. Plywood.
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Old 11-30-2011, 08:26 PM   #5
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Engineered flooring - tell me I didn't screw up!


Where the trouble will come in is the felt padding you added, now there's room to the flooring to flex. Engineered floor should not have had any padding under it. If you wanted to sound proof you should have used carpeting instead.
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Old 11-30-2011, 09:23 PM   #6
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Engineered flooring - tell me I didn't screw up!


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Originally Posted by joecaption View Post
Where the trouble will come in is the felt padding you added, now there's room to the flooring to flex. Engineered floor should not have had any padding under it. If you wanted to sound proof you should have used carpeting instead.

Hi Joe,

I had carpet and replaced it with the engineering floor. For the padding, it is so thin (1/8 inches) and so compact I don't think there's going to be any "significant" flex downwards-upwards. There was way way better stuff available for true soundproofing but I thought it would be too "springy", not to mention it was 3 times as expensive. The padding I used has alow STC rating (53) and low ICC rating (56) so it will only attenuate a tad of noise. It was a minimum requirement in the condo rules.

Thanks for the feedback.

John
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Old 11-30-2011, 09:25 PM   #7
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Engineered flooring - tell me I didn't screw up!


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Weird!

The whole point in even manufacturing engineered flooring is to eliminate warping. That's what engineered flooring is. Plywood.
Yep, weird all right. I just hope the installed planks don't start to warp!

John
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Old 11-30-2011, 10:10 PM   #8
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Engineered flooring - tell me I didn't screw up!


Quote:
the trouble will come in is the felt padding you added, now there's room to the flooring to flex.
Actually there are many many felt and foam padding products sold for noise abatement and intended for use under laminate and engineered flooring. Not saying it couldn't be a problem, just saying it is done every day.
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Old 12-01-2011, 07:36 AM   #9
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Engineered flooring - tell me I didn't screw up!


I feel that felt would have to much give to it. The foam underlayments sold for this are dencer. The best one to use is cork.
http://www.fastfloors.com/content_2/...s-and-uses.htm
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Old 12-01-2011, 07:46 AM   #10
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Engineered flooring - tell me I didn't screw up!


I know products like WilsonArt call for the 1/8" blue foam padding. Pretty standard practice, and the glue should be fine.

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