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Old 11-15-2014, 02:49 PM   #1
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Engineered floating-click on plywood questions


I'm preparing for engineered floating-click installation on three 2nd floor bedrooms, closets & hallway that have plywood sub-floor. I have removed old carpet, tack strips, nails & baseboards and will use Floor Muffler Ultraseal as underlayment.
I have a few questions, if it's not too much trouble...

1a) Subfloor: What type of nails or screws would you use to tighten up creeks in the plywood sub-floor?
1b) What else do I have to do to prep the plywood sub-floor?

2) Acclimating: I have all the cases of wood on the first floor and plan to do this install on the second floor in stages so I plan to do the 2 guest bedrooms and hallway first due to other work in master bedroom & bathroom. That said, where would you stack the planks...in each room??? ...so they don't get in the way of your install? And do you stack on top of the underlayment after it's installed?

3) Expansion gap & baseboards: The manufacturer's instructions say I need to leave a 1/2" expansion gap by the walls. I'm in a very humid climate and I found only one baseboard at HD bigger than 1/2" and it was 9/16". That said, what material would you recommend for the baseboards and what size to cover the expansion gap?

Thanks!

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Old 11-15-2014, 04:04 PM   #2
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Engineered floating-click on plywood questions


If you have a squeaky floor then likely one or more things is wrong.

Subfloors to thin. (add another layer of at least 3/8 underlayment plywood, making sure the seams do not line up with the seams below, do not nail into the joist, no glue, the fastest way to attach it is with narrow crown staples with a pneumatic staple gun. It needs to fastened every 4" on the edges and from 6 to 8" in the field.
It was not T & G. (to late now)
No construction adhesive was used. (to late now to fix)
Not enough fasteners where used or the wrong type. (add 2" bugle head ceramic coated decking screws using an impact driver to install them)
No expansion gaps where allowed between the boards. (run a ciruler saw down the joints)

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Old 11-15-2014, 04:44 PM   #3
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Engineered floating-click on plywood questions


If you used the 1/2 base just add shoe or 1/4 round.
What a thicker base then use 1 X 6 and add base cap moulding to the top.
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Old 11-18-2014, 07:10 AM   #4
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Engineered floating-click on plywood questions


Thanks!

The house is 45 years old...Plywood sub-floor is thick enough and in good shape...just appears to need a few extra nails or screws to tighten up.

Was trying to stay away from shoe or 1/4 round...Base with cap molding sounds interesting. What about materials...Any other than wood recommended?
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Old 11-18-2014, 08:16 AM   #5
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Engineered floating-click on plywood questions


I'm not a fan of laminate on a second floor.
Here's the biggest reason why.
There's just no good way to trim it out where the stairs are.
That floor needs to float, some of the flooring company's sell a stair nosing but it has issues.
Most I've seen are some cheap fiber material as the core and what looks like peel and stick, paper thin vinyl shelving paper over it. After a few years it wears through.
It sticks up above the flooring and forms a trip hazard.
Hold it up looking at the end and you'll see it's full of right angles.
Right angles are weak points that will crack first.
What I've found that works far better is engineered flooring that gets nailed down with a landing tread at the head of the stairs installed first.
I've found it easier to install then laminate, there's no floor flexing, no noise from the floor moving, looks like real wood because the top layer is real wood.
Adds value to the house, does not look like plastic.
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Old 11-18-2014, 08:32 AM   #6
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Engineered floating-click on plywood questions


Thanks,
I meant which material for the baseboards?
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Old 11-18-2014, 09:01 AM   #7
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Engineered floating-click on plywood questions


Painted or stained?
What look are you going for?
A local real old time lumber yard is the best place to look for the cap moulding.
One draw back on DIY's installing baseboards is most often the home owner can not transport long enough pieces so there's no joints in the middle of a long run for a better look.
Second floor with lots of doors to work around this may not be an issue for you.
The right way to install that cap moulding is by coping one side of the joint when doing an inside corners.
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Old 11-18-2014, 10:51 AM   #8
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Engineered floating-click on plywood questions


What am I looking for?? That's a road we probably don't want to go down. Lol. But seriously...I only asked because when shopping for flooring, I was looking at solid wood but was steered to an engineered product due to the humid sub tropical climate.

That said, I'm looking for the proper material for my situation....at the right price. If I may relate it to Consumer Reports...I usually look for a "Best Buy" not necessarily the highest rated...Most bang for my buck.

If possible, I'd like to keep this as DIY friendly as possible. That said, there are a couple of long runs in master bedroom and main hallway but a friend with a pickup may be able to help, if needed.
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Old 11-18-2014, 04:41 PM   #9
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Engineered floating-click on plywood questions


Wood floors should have shoe molding to install & finish properly. It won't look finished without it, IMO.

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Old 11-19-2014, 03:17 PM   #10
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Engineered floating-click on plywood questions


Thanks!

I wouldn't have thought that but if that's the case, it may make things A bit easier.

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